jordan96xj

The 96 ignition switch is very easy to inspect. The main tool is a T20 torx screw driver, and then some smaller security torx for the fasteners that hold it onto the column. But to simply inspect it, the connector that runs to it, and wiring is very easy. It does not require the removal of the switch, just the trim around the column. If removing it become required, you can usually find a little box of security torx for small fasteners at any auto parts store in the "impulse buy" end caps. The little plastic boxes with a small handle and a ton of assorted bits.

The 96 runs the full amperage for the blower fan through the ignition switch (which can be as much as 20 amps when the fan is on full blast). So this switch has a tendency to start getting very hot at the connector and melting the wires there. The wires are also very close to the steering column metal itself, which is...wait for it...grounded to chassis to ground. So when the wires start melting, the insulation on the wires starts to get brittle and fail, then the voltage starts jump out and shorting directly to the column.

BennyClouds, from experience, I don't think your problem is going to be the ignition switch (but it could be). So take the time to pull trim off the column and inspect the connector and wire condition. It's well worth your time, only takes a few minutes, worth doing for the problem you are having now, and the possibility of future problems if you find the wires are in rough shape. You'll know it if they are...they will looked pretty scorched, and the insulation on the wires will be cracked and/or brittle.

Don't buy and ignition switch yet. And if you want to save yourself some hassle, if it comes to it, I can have you post a picture or two of your lock cylinder, and make sure you get the right one. On the 96, they used more than one, and the lock cylinder you have (the part your key goes into) will determine the correct switch to get. If it is the same one I have, it won't come up under any 96 XJ part searches. (I think they used some from the Dakota line, and it looks nearly identical, but the lock cylinder shape is slightly different). But I still have the part orders on hand and know which is which.

PatHenry

RocketMouse

Very doable... I just recently replaced the one on my 99 XJ as well due to it just wearing out over the last 19 years of use.
Like others above in this thread.... it's straight forward and you don't need a PhD to do this test/fix.

PatHenry

Also, I wouldn't be jumping the starter with a screwdriver or anything like that. I don't know if this is something that people do on a Jeep starter, but that just screams -trouble- to me.

It's really not hard to remove the starter. I'd do that and take it to your local parts store for a proper test.

jordan96xj

BennyClouds,

Have you taken a multimeter to the battery to make sure it has sufficient voltage before starting? (should be approx +12.5v) Even if it is a newer battery (was the other one dying on you?) this test should really be the first step in any starting problem. Especially with problems that have the symptoms you mentioned.

BennyClouds

This really jumped out at me, I didn't realize the blower power ran through the ignition.
Since it's winter, we've been running the heat a lot, and a good portion of the time that fan is on high. I think the failure you mention here is not at all out of the realm of possibility. Since it was purchased used, and had definitely sat for a while before we got her, this seems incredibly likely.

If this ends up being the case, is that wiring harness something that can be swapped out, or am I going to have to get into splicing and replacing individual wires for that?

Yeah, the place we bought from threw in some garbage battery that only had a few months left on it. I haven't been able to buy a new meter yet, but I'm almost certain the new battery is putting out proper voltage. Bluetooth OBD scanner and dash voltmeter are both giving the same readings. Once I have a meter though, I'll definitely measure just for due-diligence.

That was -way- easier than I had thought it would be. Crazy easy. When the time comes, I don't think that'll be any issue at all. Thank you for that resource!

If I pull it before getting a meter, I'll bring it to Autozone and have them bench test it. Otherwise, that bleepinjeep video gave a good synopsis of how/where to measure, and what the readings should be. I just have to get under her and pull it and measure, and right now, the parking lot is cold as hell and sporadically covered in snow, lol.

She's got some rust too, so if there's any danger of shearing off a bolt, I'd rather not wrestle with it until our temps are above freezing. Already made that mistake when trying to remove the bezel screws to replace a headlight, just snapped the corroded fcker right off, hahaha.

I really appreciate the input, everyone.


~b

jordan96xj

Once I realized the damage that running the blower fan on full does to the ignition switch wiring over time, I developed the habit of running the fan on full on for limited periods of time (I would recommend this to all 96 and lower owners). Because just by bringing it down by one speed on the select, the amperage is significantly reduced.

If the connector and/or wires near it are very heavily damaged, a new connector pigtail can be found on ebay. I got one during my troubleshooting, but didn't end up using it. Sometimes just individual wires need to be repaired.

Basically, as the ignition switch gets older and more carbon builds up internally, the resistance in the switch gets slightly higher over time. But that small amount of increased resistance when exposed to nearly 20 amps of the blower running, can generate a ton of heat (and voltage drop). What lead me to figuring it out was that my voltage in the cab was often low compared to the system voltage. Especially when the blower was on. So I kind of dug in to figure out where the voltage was disappearing to. Of course I suspected the blower fan and resistor and other stuff first, but ultimately it came back to the switch in the end.

I have actually considered tapping an access hole into the bottom of the steering column shroud, so that inspecting the connection and wires would be done more regularly.

PatHenry

I couldn't believe it myself when I first did it. I had had trouble starting my TJ for some time, but never enough to bother me. Then suddenly it died while I was at work. I pulled the starter, thinking that was the issue (in my work parking lot) - it came out pretty easily despite never having been removed in 12 years - got a ride down to the parts store and the starter tested fine.
So I got a ride home, did some research and determined it was likely the ignition switch. I picked one up, drove back to work, and got it apart up to the "tamper resistant" torx bit part, (with flashlights and the headlights of my ride's car for light.) Of course I didn't have the bits and it was past closing time at any local store, so I ended up snapping the switch off and plugging the new switch in - the Jeep started right up (using a screwdriver to turn the switch) and I got it home and properly installed the new switch the next day.

PatHenry

A junkyard is another option if your connector is toast.

97grand4.0

Great post I have sticky'd it! Timely too as I have been experiencing similar on my 97 grand. I suspect either my starter relay ..or more likely the NSS, as sometimes I have to start in N. I just replaced the starter (40 bux off ebay and it's great, old one was OE and 200k miles).

The other odd problem that started was with the heater staying on after the key was turned off, and at the same time the blinkers would also work, once. At the same time it would do this, the flasher for the blinkers and e flasher, in the fuseblock by the passenger footwell, would emit a buzzing sound. A couple times it seemed if I jiggled the key it would stop, other times no amount of jiggling would stop it. Then all the sudden everything just worked fine as it is now. So on that I suspect the burnt wiring harness or switch. I have had the cowl off before when I rebuilt my multifunction switch, and I almost recall noting and maybe working on some burnt wires there.

Kudos for the video of the starter relay circuit troubleshooting on page 1 too.

BennyClouds

Update!
Finally had some weather that allowed me to crawl under old girl and wrench a bit. Pulled the starter, had it bench tested at the auto parts store, and was weirdly relieved when it failed, lol.
Dropped some coin on a new one and she's starting nicely again!