"SuperTech" Power Steering Fluid - Good or No-No?
#16
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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capped the reservoir return fitting (I used the cap that came with the new pump ...save those things , you never know when you need one )
capped the reservoir return fitting (I used the cap that came with the new pump ...save those things , you never know when you need one )
Last edited by Dr ZEE; 11-24-2009 at 02:14 AM.
#17
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From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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I attached the garden hose "extension" to the return hose (fits nicely ), and pushed it down and fitted it into professional grade fluid discharge container (clear plastic, so can see what's coming ...dohhhhh ):
I attached the garden hose "extension" to the return hose (fits nicely ), and pushed it down and fitted it into professional grade fluid discharge container (clear plastic, so can see what's coming ...dohhhhh ):
#19
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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With engine OFF.
I slowly steer all the way left then right and return to straight. Each such "cycle" discharges sertain amount of fluid and so the level in the reservoir drops some, so fill-up the reservoir and repeat.
I had to repeat this few times (more than five... hmmm, didn't count) ...but the idea was to get the discharged fluid clear.
With engine OFF.
I slowly steer all the way left then right and return to straight. Each such "cycle" discharges sertain amount of fluid and so the level in the reservoir drops some, so fill-up the reservoir and repeat.
I had to repeat this few times (more than five... hmmm, didn't count) ...but the idea was to get the discharged fluid clear.
Last edited by Dr ZEE; 11-24-2009 at 02:16 AM.
#20
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
so the fluid gets clearer each time. I emptied each "portion" from the container, so I can see the condition after each cycle (as I can't just observe the fluid running...as I have to refill and go and steer the damn thing ...heh heh...so one step at the time here)
#22
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
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From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Finally the discharged fluid got pretty clear , also I was running out of new "Jeep Fluid" LOL.... so I had to make sure that I still have some left for the final "stage".
So at this point I cranked the engine shortly. This makes the fluid run pretty good and also some (not much, though) air bubbles gets out into discharge container... you can see some micro bubles on this pic
I did crank couple times, added fluid and then once actually started the engine for a second and turned it off, added fluid again.
After that there were no more bubbles in the conteiner.
So at this point I cranked the engine shortly. This makes the fluid run pretty good and also some (not much, though) air bubbles gets out into discharge container... you can see some micro bubles on this pic
I did crank couple times, added fluid and then once actually started the engine for a second and turned it off, added fluid again.
After that there were no more bubbles in the conteiner.
Last edited by Dr ZEE; 11-24-2009 at 02:19 AM.
#23
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From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
the last thing to do.
Reconnect the return hose to the return fitting. (there'll be some mess as you'd have to remove the cup and place the hose on the fitting).
Add some fluid again.
I started the engin and ran it shortly. Checked the fluid. It dropped just a bit.
Then I restarted the engine. With engine running I steered right-left, checked the fluid, added some fluid as it was dropping some more (not much), then I steered left-right few times more. Let the engine run for few minutes. Then check the level. The fluid was pretty clear and no bubbles and it did not really drop too much. So I ended up actually sucking a bit out of the reservoir as It was a bit over the "dip-stick" "HOT" mark.
Well, and that's about it.
Close the reservoir cap.
Replace the air-cleaner unit.
Wheels down, and took it on the road. Drives nicely. Same sound at "full stop" steering...heh heh
No damn magic from "Jeep fluid", but it's nice and clear
well, so now I know ..heh heh
Reconnect the return hose to the return fitting. (there'll be some mess as you'd have to remove the cup and place the hose on the fitting).
Add some fluid again.
I started the engin and ran it shortly. Checked the fluid. It dropped just a bit.
Then I restarted the engine. With engine running I steered right-left, checked the fluid, added some fluid as it was dropping some more (not much), then I steered left-right few times more. Let the engine run for few minutes. Then check the level. The fluid was pretty clear and no bubbles and it did not really drop too much. So I ended up actually sucking a bit out of the reservoir as It was a bit over the "dip-stick" "HOT" mark.
Well, and that's about it.
Close the reservoir cap.
Replace the air-cleaner unit.
Wheels down, and took it on the road. Drives nicely. Same sound at "full stop" steering...heh heh
No damn magic from "Jeep fluid", but it's nice and clear
well, so now I know ..heh heh
Last edited by Dr ZEE; 11-24-2009 at 02:20 AM.
#25
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
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From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Uh, sorry, I've missed your post. Stopped by here to fix some bad spelling ..grrrrrrrrrr, I have no patience for this.
No... it's a hardly a "write up". The thing is that I had to gather some "ideas" and info on how do do this...if I only really knew how to do this stuff right. So this is just as "sharing not so good experience", so someone can take a note and not do the same mistake or maybe find something helpful.
I personally myself have hard time following written instructions. I need to see things.
***************
I guess the good lesson I've learned here, that when replacing PS pump and especially if you don't know the history so you don't know what fluid (or mix of fluids) is there - then sure - FLUSH it. I think it's a good idea regardlessly, but this is only my thought. What do I know.
When I was replacing the pump I followed Haynes manual, and they did not even mentioned flushing the remaining fluid.
The pump I've got actually had a mini-"booklet" with its own instructions on how to do this but it was written as it's not specifically for Jeep, so I completely ignored it. But in that booklet the fluid flushig was described as a part of the procedure.
So, as you can see, after I replaced the pump and put in 1Q of the new "SuperTech" fluid (which is clear "color" btw) , - there was still the whole lot of "dirt" in the system.
The other point is, that (from my experience) if you follow the flush procedure after you install new pump, this way it seems that it is easier to get the most air out before running the pump, and when you re-connect the return hose to the reservoir - there's very little air left there. When I did it the first time around just following the Haynes "instruction" ... after the first crank I had the top of the fluid in the reservoir that looked like well prepaired capucino , and then it took like forever to bleed the air out.
ok, I'm kinda' repeading the same thing already ...
Good luck fixing PS , plan on some extra time in addition to what you "plan" ..heh heh , just in case, it's just that with this things you never know which way the wind will blow, sort of speak...
I personally myself have hard time following written instructions. I need to see things.
***************
I guess the good lesson I've learned here, that when replacing PS pump and especially if you don't know the history so you don't know what fluid (or mix of fluids) is there - then sure - FLUSH it. I think it's a good idea regardlessly, but this is only my thought. What do I know.
When I was replacing the pump I followed Haynes manual, and they did not even mentioned flushing the remaining fluid.
The pump I've got actually had a mini-"booklet" with its own instructions on how to do this but it was written as it's not specifically for Jeep, so I completely ignored it. But in that booklet the fluid flushig was described as a part of the procedure.
So, as you can see, after I replaced the pump and put in 1Q of the new "SuperTech" fluid (which is clear "color" btw) , - there was still the whole lot of "dirt" in the system.
The other point is, that (from my experience) if you follow the flush procedure after you install new pump, this way it seems that it is easier to get the most air out before running the pump, and when you re-connect the return hose to the reservoir - there's very little air left there. When I did it the first time around just following the Haynes "instruction" ... after the first crank I had the top of the fluid in the reservoir that looked like well prepaired capucino , and then it took like forever to bleed the air out.
ok, I'm kinda' repeading the same thing already ...
Good luck fixing PS , plan on some extra time in addition to what you "plan" ..heh heh , just in case, it's just that with this things you never know which way the wind will blow, sort of speak...
#28
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 89
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From: Living on a farm in Farmville!
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have to agree that this is a very helpful post. I had to replace my pump today. I should say started because of this being my first ride on this particular rodeo. Being that the bearings failed and the shaft was now hanging out of the front of the pump, my serpentine pulley was mashed up against the fan. This was making it impossible to loosen the bolt in the center of the tension wheel. After a few minutes, okay maybe twenty, of scratching my head, I figured out how to get the belt off without cutting it. Being that the pulley was at a pretty good angle I simply started it off one edge, pulled the coil wire and bumped it over a few times. I came right off. So then I proceeded to get real good at taking out and putting back in those three longwinded bolts. Yep that’s right, I forgot to break loose the compression fitting. Another rookie mistake I made: It took me awhile to figure out that cranking the tension wheel all the way to the bottom makes getting to the lower bolt on the mounting bracket a little easier. ANYWAY, as I was using the handy dandy little wheel puller/press that Autozone was kind enough to let me use, during pressing the pulley on the new shaft, the threads pulled out of the new pump shaft. Obviously not made with American steel! So since I have the time now, I decided to check out the forum to see if anyone has made a post that might clue me in as to where the drain plug would be on the steering box. Now that the laughter has subsided!!! Thanks for this post because now I won’t spend time trying to find something that is not needed and possibly not even there. The new pump should be at the store by noon; I guess I’ll just have to fish until then.
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