Swaping D35 for D44
#1
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Year: 1994...mostly...
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO, Lot's of Bolt Ons
Swaping D35 for D44
I'm swapping my 94 XJ's D35 for an 87 XJ D44. I have around 4" of lift and a 1" TC Drop. I have no vibrations with my stock XJ 30" Drive shaft. The D44 Drive shaft for the same setup (aw4 & 231) requires a 29 5/8" drive shaft stock. The D44 drive shaft is shot though so I'm thinking of just resuing the D35 drive shaft since it's in good shape. I shouldn't get any vibs with using the D35 drive shaft correct? If anything the extra length in the drive shaft should help right? Also will it be a bolt on affair for the drive shaft or does the D44 use a different U-joint than the D35?
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
just keep your in there the extra lenght will not be a problem and they use the same u joints so as long as yours are good than go a head
#3
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Just keep the original DS you had in your 94. I put an 87 D44 rear axle in my 91. The only thing not from my original Jeep that I used was the axle itself.
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Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
No worries, Bro. That's why we're all here on the forum to help out and save each other a buck or two when we can.
#7
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Look at it this way, when you lifted the Jeep it brought the slip yoke out slightly in the transfer case because it had a longer distance to the pinion vs a stock suspension.
Now, the D44 has a longer cast section for the pinion. Using the longer driveshaft in addition to the pinion length means your getting more slip yoke back into the transfer case. Always a good thing.
Now, the D44 has a longer cast section for the pinion. Using the longer driveshaft in addition to the pinion length means your getting more slip yoke back into the transfer case. Always a good thing.
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#8
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don't think the d35 shaft will work. i had to get a d44 shaft, the d35 shaft was way too long. that's when i was at 5.5 inches.
you don't want to drop the rear end enough to slam the driveshaft into the t-case. you'll poke it right out the other side, so to speak.
you don't want to drop the rear end enough to slam the driveshaft into the t-case. you'll poke it right out the other side, so to speak.
#9
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Year: 2000
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there is only 3/8th's of a difference the lift took out about 3/4r's of a inch. when i swapped mine in with my stock shaft i had no problem with only 3.5 inch's. dude that sucks about yours though did it hit the back of the transfer case
#10
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Year: 1994...mostly...
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO, Lot's of Bolt Ons
Alot of other people I've talked to have not had this problem. I'll measure and mark the yoke just to be safe. I might also remove the 1" drop so I can gain some ground clearance back. Thanks for the warning. Sucks that it happened to you. I measured both of the shafts though so I'm sure on only having the 3/8th difference.
#11
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didn't happen to me, but to my buddy when he put the 44 in his. but he was only 5 inches and had a 242, not sure if that's what did it... it just cracked his case in half.
#12
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have heard of that happening before, could be the operating angle on the ujoint at transfer maxed out and put the stress on his output shaft. Was he flexed in the rear when this happened?
#13
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he was carrying alot of weight in the back. tools, spare parts, camping gear. it was getting dark, so we were going a little fast down a trail trying to find a camp site, and he come over a hill and dropped down quick and squished his rear suspension, then boom.
#14
Do you hear banjos?
DS was too long, and the SY bottomed out. I've heard of this happening, and it must suck big time!! FWIW, I lifted my XJ 5.5"s in the rear, with a D44 and a 242, and I had 1" added to my DS when I had it rebuilt after some "rock love"!! I thought it would need more, but after looking at the amount slip I needed, it only took an inch. HTH!!
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