Ive heard it can be a major PITA, and Ive never done leafs before, so Im looking for any and all insight. Im hoping to takle them this weekend and I just hit them with PB BLaster in advance. Plan on doing that for a couple days leading up.

So, what is the best protocol for this? Do I use jack stands under the frame right under the rear seat and then support the pumpkin with a jack? Im figuring on replacing the bolts too (no sense in re-using old, rusty bolts, right) so does anyone know what size/grade I should use?

Again, Ive never done this so its guesswork for me, but my new Quadratecs came today and Im PSYCHED to have a leaf that isnt INVERTED! Seriously, mine are shot!

Thanks for any & all suggestions and help in advance.

PS: These are just regular duty replacement leafs. http://www.quadratec.com/products/56010_12.htm

 

They can be a pain but take your time. What are you doing AAL or full leaf packs? You put the jacks stands on the frame to let the axle droop all the way down

 

^^ Just undo the u-bolts and shocks then jack the body up off the axles, put stands right in front of the front spring mounts. Be prepared to have to cut the front mounting bolts and extract the stub from the captured nut. Or to have to replace the captured nut.

 

i'd like to know how this goes for you. i will be replacing mine soon and want all the insider information out there. good luck!

 

Just make sure you get new U bolts with the right type of tall nuts. Not a good idea to reuse U-bolts since the threads are so fine. About 2 weeks ago I assisted for the first time with swapping my leafs. So much to say, so little time. We didn't have to cut bolts - but then, the old leafs had only been in the XJ a few months. When you buy bolts make sure they're Grade 8 or better. And if you can get the ones with the smooth leader tip (instead of the threaded tip) then it's a good idea. Trust me on this one.

 

If you're doing a bastard pack, keep the XJ main and make sure that the second leaf is almost as long as the main. One side at a time gives you more stability, but in the end pulling the axle back to the original location can be a pain. I used a ratchet strap to pull it back. New hardware is a must if you don't wanna do it over later down the road. Once finished, make sure that your axle hasn't moved back or forth in the wheel well.

 

Start removing u bolts, Then the Leaf bolt closest to the door, then Remove the top shackle bolt.

No lying here but i got my rear leafs off without wd40 or PB. In 1 day. Just used an impact and a breaker with a 2 foot cheater.

 

I would PB blast, PB blast then PB blast....it should be a breeze after a week.
You might want to look at this.

GL

 

Your in Maine Dude! Those original bolts might be nearly welded into the sleeves by now.

Get six new bolts *(2 eye end and 4 shackle end).
May as well get 4 new nuts to. (Could always save an un-prepared buddy some day if you don't use them.)
New U-Blots and nuts.
Bushings pre-installed into springs.
Anti-seize on everything.

Give it a shot with the breaker bar and 4 foot pipe. Don't waste too much time. Just cut em' if they are frozen.

It's actually quite easy if you just take your time and be careful lifting your Jeep.

 

if we are gonna remove anything we tend to use loads of wd 40, pb blaster for about 2 weeks in advance, tbh it usually works.
other then that have heat to hand.

 

Thought Id reply to this since Im searching for help on the site.

I FINALLY got some free time this week, so I started my leafs this afternoon. Before even lifting it I want to break everything free (especially the eye bolts) so I knew I wouldnt have any problems. Everything went fine, everything broke free and I lifted one side up to start (didnt want to lift the whole thing at once).

So, I got the passenger shackle bolt out first, then pulled the u-bolts no problems. This only took about 20 minutes and then I started on the front eye. It was TIGHT going, and after about a quarter inch it was literally froze. Couldnt figure out why, because I was using a 2' breaker bar in the wheel well (only place to get at it) and every time I pushed down, it came back up. Sooooo, 5 hours later and Im figuring that the bolt is froze in the sleeve. All of the sudden it broke, and Im not sure if it broke the welded nut, but I KNOW it broke the sleeve free of the bushing. I can turn the bolt all I want and it doesnt come out more than the 3/8" its sticking out.

So, Im a driveway mechanic with no welder or torch. Im REALLY not sure where to go from here. If anyone has some advice it would be GREATLY appreciated. She's sitting on the jack stand right now with backup concrete blocks and she has to stay this way over night. Its our DD, only vehicle and I have a 3 1/2 year old so Im kind screwed. Thanks!

 

Never done it before? On anything? Then do more research and don't think for one minute that it's easy.

You'll need a heat wrench, fire extinguisher, jack-stands (at frame, as you said) and a couple floor jacks. Add a case of beer, a buddy who's done it before, a whole lot of patience and the desire to see it through to the finished product. Good Luck and I'll say a prayer.

 

Not on a Cherokee, not a vehicle with boxed in nuts that you cant get to and not on my own vehicle by myself.

Dont have a heat wrench.

Dont drink.

Dont have a buddy who can even help me, let alone who's done it before.

Ive got more patience than most, and Ive rebuilt engines before (I grew up in a racing family and have built MANY stock cars), so the desire and will arent a problem. Ive already got some ideas of how I can cut the leaf and get at the bushing and see if its free of the nut or broken it. Hoping for the former.

Like I said, just dug up this thread because I was searching to see what others who have had this problem have done. Worried if the nut is broken off that Im going to be ultra screwed.

 

I'm going to lift mine again next weekend and spraying it with pb already

 

Seriously doubt that the nut is broken off. Im almost positive that the bolt is seized to the bushing sleeve. You can try to cut off the 3/8in thats sticking out with an angle grinder and then hammer the bolt back into the eye of the spring with a drift. That may allow you to pull the leaf eye right out of the bracket. This is what I had to do on my rear leaf bolts.

OR



You could go the reallly long and painful route of cutting the spring off at the eye and then angle grinding all the way through the spring eye and the bushing until you can cut the metal bushing away from the bolt itself.

Its hard to judge your situation accurately without being there and seeing it. Hope this is some help.

Good luck.

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