switching to synthetic
05-17-2014, 10:29 PM
#166
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Who's Clarence?
05-18-2014, 02:16 AM
#169
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They used to claim the crude oil Pennzoil used turned into wax and caused sludge. Of course Pennzoil hasn't been made from Appalachian crude for decades, those old oil fields ran out of capacity long ago. Brad Penn is still using them in limited capacity though, in the old Kendall refinery- and it's a highly respected motor oil.
The HM oil seems to be on the heavy side for it's weight and has some mild seal conditioners.
Last edited by Radi; 05-18-2014 at 02:32 AM.
05-18-2014, 02:46 AM
#170
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Nothing wrong with Pennzoil, it's a good product. There are some old wives tales from decades ago floating around that just refuse to die. Most were started by Pennzoil's competitors with no basis in truth.
They used to claim the crude oil Pennzoil used turned into wax and caused sludge. Of course Pennzoil hasn't been made from Appalachian crude for decades, those old oil fields ran out of capacity long ago. Brad Penn is still using them in limited capacity though, in the old Kendall refinery- and it's a highly respected motor oil.
The HM oil seems to be on the heavy side for it's weight and has some mild seal conditioners.
05-18-2014, 07:05 AM
#172
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05-18-2014, 07:11 AM
#173
I think you need to do some personal research before making your choice. Go enroll in a couple of classes on auto tech, physics, mechanical and chemical engineering. Then get yourself an internship with a petroleum engineer. While you're doing that, read all of the motor oil research that you can. Once you have all that knowledge in your head you can then go to the parts store and do just what CrawdadSlim said. Just go buy some oil at the MFG recommended weight.
05-18-2014, 07:13 AM
#174
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I think you need to do some personal research before making your choice. Go enroll in a couple of classes on auto tech, physics, mechanical and chemical engineering. Then get yourself an internship with a petroleum engineer. While you're doing that, read all of the motor oil research that you can. Once you have all that knowledge in your head you can then go to the parts store and do just what CrawdadSlim said. Just go buy some oil at the MFG recommended weight.
05-18-2014, 12:20 PM
#176
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I understand the importance of the first number. The lower the number 0,5, or 10 the faster it flows with 0 flowing faster. Correct me if I'm wrong, But an increase in flow would mean a decrease in pressure and vice versa right? So a 0w would flow faster to the top but not protect as much because of the decrease in pressure And pressure is created by the Clarences between moving parts???
If u did, re-read the following paragraph.....From Motor Oil 101 by Dr. A. E. Haas:
It is time to introduce the concept of lubrication. Most believe that pressure = lubrication. This is false. Flow = lubrication. If pressure was the thing that somehow lubricated your engine then we would all be using 90 weight oil. Lubrication is used to separate moving parts, to keep them from touching. There is a one to one relationship between flow and separation. If you double the flow you will double the separation pressure in a bearing. The pressure at the bearing entrance is irrelevant.
Last edited by djb383; 05-18-2014 at 12:30 PM.
05-18-2014, 06:12 PM
#178
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[QUOTE=Firestorm500;2860064]Well I think we have about beat this oil thread to death.
Agreed, I'll try out the rotella t6 and see how it goes. Maybe I'll give Mobil 1 high mileage a try too. Thanks for the info fellas.
Agreed, I'll try out the rotella t6 and see how it goes. Maybe I'll give Mobil 1 high mileage a try too. Thanks for the info fellas.
