switching to synthetic
05-13-2014, 08:57 AM
#91
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Screw cliff notes, read the dang article! I was skeptical at first about reading an article on oil, but Salad put it together nicely and I must say I really enjoyed reading all of it. I learned a lot and now I am going to go do an oil change.
Thanks,
Eric
Thanks,
Eric
05-13-2014, 09:10 AM
#92
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Salad's gonna do an oil filter write-up soon......
05-13-2014, 09:17 AM
#93
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Good grief...
There is so much bad information in the last few pages.
Only Pennzoil Platinum advertising the "PurePlus" is manufactured with base stocks synthesized from natural gas.
Quaker State Defy does not have elevated levels of ZDDP worth mentioning.
What filter and oil weight did you end up using? Too thick of an oil will do that, (30 fahrenheit is too cold for 10w) as will a ****ty filter with defective anti drain back valve.
I do not advocate changing oil frequently except as part of a very specific cleanig regimen to bring a sludged engine back to life. The reason for this is that detergents in oils attack the protective layers of antiwear additives that built up over the course of the last oil's life. If you change oil too fast you basically just strip it all away and the additives are useless. So give it time.
I do not recommend Castrol GTX to anybody.
Read some of the links that have been posted. This includes AE Haus' Motor Oil 101 for how oil works in the first place, and after that check out the writeup on engine oil in the Jeep 4.0L: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rotella-worlds-first-ever-combined-hair-oil-foot-ointment-salad-dressing-188168/
There is so much bad information in the last few pages.
Only Pennzoil Platinum advertising the "PurePlus" is manufactured with base stocks synthesized from natural gas.
Quaker State Defy does not have elevated levels of ZDDP worth mentioning.
What filter and oil weight did you end up using? Too thick of an oil will do that, (30 fahrenheit is too cold for 10w) as will a ****ty filter with defective anti drain back valve.
I do not advocate changing oil frequently except as part of a very specific cleanig regimen to bring a sludged engine back to life. The reason for this is that detergents in oils attack the protective layers of antiwear additives that built up over the course of the last oil's life. If you change oil too fast you basically just strip it all away and the additives are useless. So give it time.
I do not recommend Castrol GTX to anybody.
Read some of the links that have been posted. This includes AE Haus' Motor Oil 101 for how oil works in the first place, and after that check out the writeup on engine oil in the Jeep 4.0L: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rotella-worlds-first-ever-combined-hair-oil-foot-ointment-salad-dressing-188168/
There u go again, killing a perfectly good oil thread that is so full of BS, so full of opinions and so full of love stories between motors and oil. I mean, where does the ridiculousness stop. Thank you so much.......party pooper.
Last edited by djb383; 05-13-2014 at 09:20 AM.
05-13-2014, 09:30 AM
#94
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Thanks,
Eric
05-13-2014, 09:46 AM
#95
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I am not too sure about that. I have an oil leak either from the oil pan or the valve cover gasket or both so I was thinking of a non-sythetic Rotella. I just replaced my entire cooling system and I saw something earlier in the thread where Salad mentioned that in choosing an oil. What is a good filter to use? I read the article but there is so much involved I just want to get the right stuff. I am in virginia beach so any input on which weight to get from you guys would be great!
Thanks,
Eric
Thanks,
Eric
05-13-2014, 09:58 AM
#98
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I use ams oil in all of my cars and trucks and I don't have to change my oil for 15,000 .but if you have any leaks a synthetic will still leak through. or if you have an old gasket it can sometimes make a leak happen. I put ams oil in my 92 ford and drove from N.C to Vegas wit no problems at all
05-13-2014, 10:01 AM
#99
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Sorry to thread jack here but one last question. Is it easy enough to change oil pan and valve cover gasket? What I mean is, can I do it in the parking lot of my apartment with basic socket and wrench set?
05-13-2014, 10:17 AM
#100
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Good grief...
There is so much bad information in the last few pages.
Only Pennzoil Platinum advertising the "PurePlus" is manufactured with base stocks synthesized from natural gas.
Quaker State Defy does not have elevated levels of ZDDP worth mentioning.
What filter and oil weight did you end up using? Too thick of an oil will do that, (30 fahrenheit is too cold for 10w) as will a ****ty filter with defective anti drain back valve.
I do not advocate changing oil frequently except as part of a very specific cleanig regimen to bring a sludged engine back to life. The reason for this is that detergents in oils attack the protective layers of antiwear additives that built up over the course of the last oil's life. If you change oil too fast you basically just strip it all away and the additives are useless. So give it time.
I do not recommend Castrol GTX to anybody.
Read some of the links that have been posted. This includes AE Haus' Motor Oil 101 for how oil works in the first place, and after that check out the writeup on engine oil in the Jeep 4.0L: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?t=188168
There is so much bad information in the last few pages.
Only Pennzoil Platinum advertising the "PurePlus" is manufactured with base stocks synthesized from natural gas.
Quaker State Defy does not have elevated levels of ZDDP worth mentioning.
What filter and oil weight did you end up using? Too thick of an oil will do that, (30 fahrenheit is too cold for 10w) as will a ****ty filter with defective anti drain back valve.
I do not advocate changing oil frequently except as part of a very specific cleanig regimen to bring a sludged engine back to life. The reason for this is that detergents in oils attack the protective layers of antiwear additives that built up over the course of the last oil's life. If you change oil too fast you basically just strip it all away and the additives are useless. So give it time.
I do not recommend Castrol GTX to anybody.
Read some of the links that have been posted. This includes AE Haus' Motor Oil 101 for how oil works in the first place, and after that check out the writeup on engine oil in the Jeep 4.0L: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?t=188168
Silicon = 3 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = 170 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Magnesium = 8 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Calcium = 2652 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Barium = 0 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Total detergent/dispersant (anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) = 2830 ppm
Zinc = 1221 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 955 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 99 ppm (anti-wear)
Total anti-wear = 2275 ppm
Potassium = 4 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
Sodium = 0 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
TBN = 6.5 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9. And in use, this becomes depleted over time as mileage accumulates)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 11.7 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness
05-13-2014, 10:19 AM
#101
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Valve cover is very simple, but the oil pan in a apartment parking lot might be a bit difficult especially if your manager is a **** or something. Lol
05-13-2014, 10:26 AM
#104
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05-13-2014, 10:31 AM
#105
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I plan on sending in my old oil to get it tested so I will let you guys know the results. After 5000 with the Rotella I will get another test done so you all can compare.