switching to synthetic
#121
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Well I plan on replacing the valve cover and the oil pan gasket at the same time I change the oil so that should alleviate any leaks (hopefully.) As for jumping on the bandwagon. I noticed that a lot of people in a lot of communities, with different makes and models of cars/trucks/motorcycles were saying that rotella made a positive impact on their vehicle. Also the proof is in the pudding and numbers don't lie. Just type "Rotella VOA" or "Rotella UOA" in a search engine and you will get a multitude of results of oil analysis from Blackstone Labs showing the levels of each additive and it all looks great to me. Opinions are like buttholes, everyones got one and they all stink. I prefer numbers from a reliable source.
#123
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think we all forgot that this a 4.0 tractor engine not a high revving forged internal fire breathing 632 big block. So....does it matter much if when u bought your xj it already had over 130,000 miles and who knows what the previous owner would put in it. Most likely those Castrol gtx. Point is no matter what it'll go over 200,000 miles and you'll be good.
#124
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#126
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I think we all forgot that this a 4.0 tractor engine not a high revving forged internal fire breathing 632 big block. So....does it matter much if when u bought your xj it already had over 130,000 miles and who knows what the previous owner would put in it. Most likely those Castrol gtx. Point is no matter what it'll go over 200,000 miles and you'll be good.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMC_straight-6_engine
#127
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Year: 1999
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#128
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Lol I didn't meab literally a tractor engine. I meant that most of everyone here doesn't rev the crap out of these engines. They're not meant to have high rpm horsepower it's a work horse nothing wrong with that it's just people act like they have a race engine. Its just a little 4.0 straight 6. Nothing fancy nothing delicate it's a Jeep. Now my BMWs 2.8 straight 6 cries and shakes and throws codes when it doesn't have OEM oil and a Mann filter or "European formula" oil and a wix/Napa.
#130
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#131
Actually, according to the Wikipedia link, the 258 was used in farm applications:
"This engine also found some use in farm/industrial applications such as the International Harvester 4000 swather."
Just sayin......
"This engine also found some use in farm/industrial applications such as the International Harvester 4000 swather."
Just sayin......
#132
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But, the engine's primary and foremost purpose was automobile applications. Just because some farm implement company outsourced one version of the engine does not make it a tractor engine.
#133
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Checker Cab Co. used all Chrysler Slant 6's till they stopped supplying them because of the lost fleet business. Paid an out of court settlement to Checker and was rewarded with a surge in fleet sales again. Does that make the Slant 6 a Cab motor??
If it does I saw one run a 10.21 in a Dart at the track in the 1/4 mi. what does that make it?
I run an engine design from the 1950's a SBC in my old Station Wagon (a Dart/Block/Heads) but a SBC when it first came out about 150hp. My current engine will make 1500hp but I leave about 200hp on the table current race tune 1278hp race fuel, street 740hp pump gas. Easy to tune with a laptop I use a different weight oil for each use and change oil/filter after every race and run the valves. For the street do the same every 100mi.oil and filters are cheap Mobile 1 NAPA NASCAR Racing filters both supplied by NAPA, hey it helps I go through a lot of both even though I only street drive it now.
Moral of all this BS just change your oil and filter often and cut open your filters to see what's going on inside your engine. After you cut a few open you can see why I run NAPA Gold (Wix) over the others filtering material and what had been filtered.
This isn't anything to argue or get upset over be happy go 4 wheeling.
If it does I saw one run a 10.21 in a Dart at the track in the 1/4 mi. what does that make it?
I run an engine design from the 1950's a SBC in my old Station Wagon (a Dart/Block/Heads) but a SBC when it first came out about 150hp. My current engine will make 1500hp but I leave about 200hp on the table current race tune 1278hp race fuel, street 740hp pump gas. Easy to tune with a laptop I use a different weight oil for each use and change oil/filter after every race and run the valves. For the street do the same every 100mi.oil and filters are cheap Mobile 1 NAPA NASCAR Racing filters both supplied by NAPA, hey it helps I go through a lot of both even though I only street drive it now.
Moral of all this BS just change your oil and filter often and cut open your filters to see what's going on inside your engine. After you cut a few open you can see why I run NAPA Gold (Wix) over the others filtering material and what had been filtered.
This isn't anything to argue or get upset over be happy go 4 wheeling.