I did run the heater and wondered why it was not working. When I touched heater inlet hose it was warm only towards the engine side and not at the firewall end. Initially I thought it was clogged, but realized that it was due to lack of antifreeze in inside the hose.

I'm learning. This was my first time replacing a thermostat.

 

This is confusing... Now we have 2 different people with the same problem answering questions... We have the 1996 Cherokee of Zach's and the 2000 Cherokee...

 

Sorry to disagree with you but running at 260+*'s repeatedly IS overheating.
That was an indication of trapped air in the system
These computer controlled engines must have a 195* t-stat in order for the comp. systems to read and function properly.
I say you need to flush the rad, replace the water pump, verify the correct temp. t-stat, refill w/50% anti freeze 50% water mix, PURGE the system of all air, and watch your temp gauge. If it climbs over 220* again without dropping, shut it down and let it cool off. I'll be suprised if you don't have a warped head already. JMO

 

yeap a DD

 

if you had a shop put that pump in depending what kind of shop. They most likley put the cheapest pump they could find in your jeep for maximum profit margin. say pump cost them $23.86 from china on your bill its gonna say high quality whatever price $114.56 just a example. I've seen new water pumps trash themselfs within a week. The impeller might not be on the shaft tightly enough and just sit there idle while the shaft spins. I've seen it happen. Take the pump off and check it. I've read this whole thread and running out of ideas besides possible head gasket or a plugged radiator cores. The head gasket might not be leaking from the outside. But that dosin't mean it's not leaking internally.

 

Thanks for the feedback ol"blue.

I went with the 180F thermostat after it was recommended by an Autozone worker. He said it's more appropriate for Seattle area. I'd hate to go through this job again to re-install the 195F thermostat I just took out.

Can anyone else confirm that a computer controlled engine needs the 195F thermostat?

 

Just read the Factory Service Manual, even the Haynes, or Chilton's.

 

Yes it does. I'd take the 180 degree one back, buy a Hayes manual for your Jeep, open it up and show that guy that recommended that 180 thermostat that the manual says 195.
That way he can credit you the cost of the 180 when he takes it back and put it towards the manual.
If you check your fuel mileage all the time you should notice it drop with the 180 thermostat.

 

Thanks Mike, Great point! If more people didn't take the word of the counter-person at the auto parts store over their manuals, they and their Jeeps would be better off.

 

Thanks Old Blue...
OK...
Before you take that water pump off try this test per the Haynes Repair Manual. Chapter 3.
"With engine up to temp squeeze the upper radiator hose. If the pump is working properly you should feel a pressure surge as the hose is released".

Another point they make in the manual is "before assuming the thermostat is to blame for a cooling system problem, check the coolant level, drivebelt tension and temperature gage operation".

At normal operating temp check the upper radiator hose. It should be hot. If it is not the thermostat is stuck closed.

The Hayes Manual costs around $20 dollars or so.

 

There is one thing you guys have not really checked. The radiator. I know it has been flushed. However it can become clogged with mineral deposits and rust badly enough flushing won't get it. The other thing is the air that was mentioned. The other possibility which is more likely is that the head gasket is bad. It doesn't have to leak out the outside to be bad. It is the internal leakage of exhaust gasses into the water jacket that is more common, and this will cause it to heat up quickly.

 

Yes, I think he has a newer radiator. Like you say though, it could easily be clogged by now. I imagine the boiling antifreeze he's had in his engine is knocking a lot of built up scale off. Someone pointed out a while back that his head gasket might be bad but he said he knows it isn't. I don't remember how he knew it was ok. He's going to have the opportunity to flush the engine, radiator and heater core out when he removes the water pump. It will be interesting for him to keep an eye on what comes out during the flush since he flushed the engine the first time around. I don't recall him saying he did the Heater core at that time though. Hopefully he is not working on a stone driveway or grass so he can monitor the amount of crud. Who knows... maybe he flushed most of it out the first time and we are missing something.

 

preach it brother the parst guy might be a smart guy but with the shear volume of stuff they see every day it is hard for them to give a good suggestion that works for your car they are just giving generalized info that works for most

 

sorry i did not get a chance to see what way it should turn. but i will check in the morning if still needed

 

I'm not preaching, just stating fact. How many times have you been given the wrong part? I always know what I want and/or take the old part with me for comparison because a lot of those parts people are non-automotive minded button-pushers who don't know a needle bearing from a ball bearing. A manual is a cheap, vital source of information for those who wish to save money by doing some of the repairs on their vehicles themselves. But you have to use the info it contains in the spec charts as well.