Like the title says. Trying to find a way to reattach the arms so they sit where I want the first time. I tried adding a small “alignment” dot with sharpie on the arm and also on the splines where the arm attaches but it still seems like every time I need to disconnect and reattach my wiper arms, they end up sitting in a different place.

Is there a more precise way to reattach the arms or is it just trial and error? I just got “new” wiper nozzles to replace my 3D printed ones and I’d like to swap them out but I don’t enjoy the endless fiddling with the arms to get them in the right position.

 

I use tape on the windshield before I remove them. If they are where I want them and then when I reinstall I have a guide to put them in the same spot. If you are starting from scratch, you need to mark where they contact the windshield upon resting and then adjust from there. I would use tape again.

 

@Sig220 I wonder if our wipers are different. For mine (1990), I need to put the arms on the mounts with the clip engaged which means that the arm is bent up at a 45*-or-so angle. I can’t lay the wiper arms flat before installing.

I suppose most people aren’t removing and reinstalling wiper arms too much if they aren’t messing with the motor, nozzles, or hunting a leak so maybe it’s a non-issue. Once I put in the OEM nozzles I shouldn’t have to touch the arms for quite some time.

 

I have a 96 XJ for now and our wipers are the same. I took my arms off the motors to access the fresh air vent to check the condition of the metal there (clean and painted) as I am chasing down a leak into the cabin. As if I don't know I have to install a floor pan on the passenger side and repair some rust holes just above the drip rail. Still deciding on whether to remove the drip rails before I start on that.

Anyway, I find removing and replacing wiper arms a pain like most people. If I don't have a reference to where I started it will take me twice as long to get them placed right. So before I removed my wiper arms, I took painters tape and marked where they contact the windshield so I can install them in the same orientation. I know about the spring that makes the knurled part pull under, but I still manage to get them back in position that is close enough! If I didn't mark the wiper position, I put them as close as I can guess. Cycle the wipers and see if they cover the windshield like I want. If not after they return to rest I mark the position with a piece of tape so that I can remove them and place them in a better orientation using the tape to tell me where I started at. Its a guesstimate, but it cuts down on how many times I have to install then remove/adjust and reinstall them.

 

@Sig220 I had a HORRIBLE pass leak. I dumped water in the cowl to test and saw that it was leaking. But when I looked in the cowl area, the water hadn’t made it to the air intake. I realized that the water was coming into the engine bay through the seam between the cowl and firewall and then making its way into the interior from under the blower motor. Instead of sealing the blower motor, I sealed the seam behind the radiator fluid reservoir (I think for yours it’s where the wiper fluid is). I recommend trying to seal that seam before you go nuts with anything else.

Here’s a link to the images: https://imgur.com/a/23ZPpze

I used Permatex Ultra Grey RTV

 

5 minute job. Once in a vehicle's lifetime. Trial and error is good. It's educational and builds character.

FSM probably has dimensions for wiper arm/blade/nozzle settings. Have you checked there?

 

Images of Bimmer are starting to dance through my head...

 

I had to take them off and on multiple times when I was hunting the pass floor leak, then to replace the nozzles with 3D printed ones, and now to replace with junkyard nozzles. FSM gives distance from blade to bottom of windshield. Was just wondering if there was a more precise way of putting them back down without trial and error and I guess the answer is no.

 

The FSM gives you a measurement. Last time I checked, units of measurement are given to have repeatable, accurate placement.

I'm not really sure what more you want.

Perhaps NASA has a laser alignment tool...

 

@roninofako yes it gives you a range from blade pivot point to windshield bottom. Driver side 23-52mm and pass side 33-62mm. I was seeing if there was a more precise way to get them where you want them. Mine don’t come off so easily so it’s tricky to slide them off and give a slight adjustment. It seems that trial and error is the way. That’s all I wanted to know.

I’ll relax with the questions as I appear to be annoying some of you and that’s not my intention.

 

Trial and error here, usually 2-3 on-offs. If your wiper mechanism has tons of slop, you'll find they will stop in different places depending on whether the windshield is dry or wet. You can get the generic kit with the bushings to tighten that back up. $6 from Amazon as I recall when I bought them. I also took apart the motor and cleaned it up, and cleaned up the grounding.

 

Yep they definitely appear to be slowly creeping up a little bit. It’s been a rainy few days. At least they are even with each other; I’m nitpicky about little things like that.

 

Have you added a wiper motor ground?

 

I have not. Tip 38 is not a hyperlink it is plain text. It is my understanding that the wiper ground is just forward of the reservoir. I could trace the wire in the loom and attach it to the firewall unless you have a better spot.

I recall seeing a photo of the wiper motor ground that you posted in conjunction with the blower motor ground upgrade but I don’t recall any information on upgrading the wiper motor ground. I can do some more digging to see if it shows up.

 

Like more power and ground issues, it's pretty easy to use your meter and see how bad they are. Measure resistance to ground or voltage on the power/ground while running.