Thermostat Housing Surface
#16
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I saved all of mine, except that my lower rad hose had a worm clamp at the radiator side. I'll assume I have your blessing to brush some of the rust off of them before re-use. They are ugly, but none of them feel as if they are ready to give up yet. ... suppose I can be the girl who goes to the JY just to liberate spring clamps haha
With the outlet tube not threaded in all the way (and refusing more movement), it does angle down a bit more than before so I'm guessing that when the hose goes back on, the hose will be hunkered down closer to my spark plug wires and the oil dipstick. Granted, the outlet pipe also extends back a tad further for the same reason. So, the bonus question is whether to shorten the heater hose a tad, or to leave the hose at stock length (thereby having more of the pipe buried in the hose).
...if the last part sounds silly, it's because I simply don't know what kind of pressure that hose takes and whether the heater core-to-outlet pipe distance affects it or even matters. [guesses as goes]
#17
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I have an AX-15 so not really ![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I dealt with weeping coolant and heater hoses for like 3 months before I finally bit the bullet and upgraded [?] to standard SS hose-clamps. Instantly fixed the weeping issue and I stopped loosing coolant. I reseated the damn spring clamps every weekend with no change previously.
Should have replaced the hoses.
Maybe mine were really worn, but I dont think they had ever been removed prior to me re-vamping the cooling system. I threw them straight in the trash after I upgraded and never looked back.
These are what I am talking about;
![](http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-925146-32791-aquariums.jpg)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I dealt with weeping coolant and heater hoses for like 3 months before I finally bit the bullet and upgraded [?] to standard SS hose-clamps. Instantly fixed the weeping issue and I stopped loosing coolant. I reseated the damn spring clamps every weekend with no change previously.
Should have replaced the hoses.
Maybe mine were really worn, but I dont think they had ever been removed prior to me re-vamping the cooling system. I threw them straight in the trash after I upgraded and never looked back.
These are what I am talking about;
![](http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-925146-32791-aquariums.jpg)
#18
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Ah yes. I got a mix of chortles/vacant looks while asking parts places for "spring clamps" over the weekend and describing them as the ones requiring channel locks to undo.
I saved all of mine, except that my lower rad hose had a worm clamp at the radiator side. I'll assume I have your blessing to brush some of the rust off of them before re-use. They are ugly, but none of them feel as if they are ready to give up yet. ... suppose I can be the girl who goes to the JY just to liberate spring clamps haha
With the outlet tube not threaded in all the way (and refusing more movement), it does angle down a bit more than before so I'm guessing that when the hose goes back on, the hose will be hunkered down closer to my spark plug wires and the oil dipstick. Granted, the outlet pipe also extends back a tad further for the same reason. So, the bonus question is whether to shorten the heater hose a tad, or to leave the hose at stock length (thereby having more of the pipe buried in the hose).
...if the last part sounds silly, it's because I simply don't know what kind of pressure that hose takes and whether the heater core-to-outlet pipe distance affects it or even matters. [guesses as goes]
I saved all of mine, except that my lower rad hose had a worm clamp at the radiator side. I'll assume I have your blessing to brush some of the rust off of them before re-use. They are ugly, but none of them feel as if they are ready to give up yet. ... suppose I can be the girl who goes to the JY just to liberate spring clamps haha
With the outlet tube not threaded in all the way (and refusing more movement), it does angle down a bit more than before so I'm guessing that when the hose goes back on, the hose will be hunkered down closer to my spark plug wires and the oil dipstick. Granted, the outlet pipe also extends back a tad further for the same reason. So, the bonus question is whether to shorten the heater hose a tad, or to leave the hose at stock length (thereby having more of the pipe buried in the hose).
...if the last part sounds silly, it's because I simply don't know what kind of pressure that hose takes and whether the heater core-to-outlet pipe distance affects it or even matters. [guesses as goes]
You can use PTFE sealant or Permatex Red High Temp Sealant on the threads.
Install the pipe (w/sealant) and tighten it down while eyeballing it for being straight back. While the sealant is still wet, dry fit the pump to the engine, adjust the tube so it does point straight back. Allow the sealant to dry before running coolant through it. No need to monkey round shortening hoses, etc. That's 'silly'. :-)
I use Red High Temp on all my pipe thread devices, e.g., ECT, IAT, OPS, and outlet tube. Never had a problem.
I have the special pliers used on those OEM clamps. They're a must.
Use them on other vehicles as well. Except taxi cab vehicles that have nothing but worm clamps.
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#22
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#24
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Okay old skools...Just to up the "sissy" ante, am I the only one in XJ history who has had to CUT the old heater hoses off the heater core plug thingies?!
WAAAAAH!!!
WAAAAAH!!!
#26
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Okay...what would this thingy like before the new hose goes on? Cleaning of some type or no? A little brushing? Mercy? haha.
I'm hoping I can use something to grease the new hose for application? Haven't tried fitting it yet (rain delay AND no room in garage...geez)
![Smile](https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Okay...what would this thingy like before the new hose goes on? Cleaning of some type or no? A little brushing? Mercy? haha.
I'm hoping I can use something to grease the new hose for application? Haven't tried fitting it yet (rain delay AND no room in garage...geez)
#27
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Okay...what would this thingy like before the new hose goes on? Cleaning of some type or no? A little brushing? Mercy? haha.
It's a PITA to clean those fittings off. Use a solvent, like Acetone, then sandpaper with real fine paper, like 400 grit.
I'm hoping I can use something to grease the new hose for application? Haven't tried fitting it yet (rain delay AND no room in garage...geez)
![Smile](https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Okay...what would this thingy like before the new hose goes on? Cleaning of some type or no? A little brushing? Mercy? haha.
It's a PITA to clean those fittings off. Use a solvent, like Acetone, then sandpaper with real fine paper, like 400 grit.
I'm hoping I can use something to grease the new hose for application? Haven't tried fitting it yet (rain delay AND no room in garage...geez)
Apply a light coating to the nipple of the fitting (heater, water pump) then slip the hose on. Better than K-Y. [yuk yuk]
Never had a leak using this stuff.
Makes it easier to get the hose off when the time comes.
bigbadon...is this stuff sissy enough for you?
Wait...bigbadon & Cruiser would use spit. A man thing.
Last edited by CCKen; 10-07-2014 at 03:51 PM.
#28
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I use a product called Plumber's Faucet and Valve Grease, made by Oatley. Comes in a small red and white 1 Fl. Oz. tube. Found in the plumbing section of Home Depot. It's waterproof and withstands temps up to 325*f.
Apply a light coating to the nipple of the fitting (heater, water pump) then slip the hose on. Better than K-Y. [yuk yuk]
Never had a leak using this stuff.
Makes it easier to get the hose off when the time comes.
bigbadon...is this stuff sissy enough for you?
Wait...bigbadon & Cruiser would use spit. A man thing.
Apply a light coating to the nipple of the fitting (heater, water pump) then slip the hose on. Better than K-Y. [yuk yuk]
Never had a leak using this stuff.
Makes it easier to get the hose off when the time comes.
bigbadon...is this stuff sissy enough for you?
Wait...bigbadon & Cruiser would use spit. A man thing.
Hot date with Plumber's Grease, no KY. Wrote it down so I don't forget. baha
#29
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I use a product called Plumber's Faucet and Valve Grease, made by Oatley. Comes in a small red and white 1 Fl. Oz. tube. Found in the plumbing section of Home Depot. It's waterproof and withstands temps up to 325*f.
Apply a light coating to the nipple of the fitting (heater, water pump) then slip the hose on. Better than K-Y. [yuk yuk]
Never had a leak using this stuff.
Makes it easier to get the hose off when the time comes.
bigbadon...is this stuff sissy enough for you?
Wait...bigbadon & Cruiser would use spit. A man thing.
Apply a light coating to the nipple of the fitting (heater, water pump) then slip the hose on. Better than K-Y. [yuk yuk]
Never had a leak using this stuff.
Makes it easier to get the hose off when the time comes.
bigbadon...is this stuff sissy enough for you?
Wait...bigbadon & Cruiser would use spit. A man thing.
The tobacco juice works like stop leak also.
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