chrisl757

After a 4 hour long battle, I got the passenger side U joint replaced. It was not easy. What looks like an Original spicer joint was rusted in and it felt tight in a few spots. I messed around with a ball joint press for more time than I care to admit but in the end, a ball peen hammer did the dirty work.

I just test drove it after getting the passenger side back together, and it takes bumps very well on the passenger side now. In fact, it rides better on bumps over that wheel than it ever has. It must have been bad for a while.

The steering wheel vibrates much less now, but there is still some vibration. I am debating going out now to tear out the driver side u joint, or maybe take a break.

it was a lot of work to get that sucker out.

One thing that gave me trouble is that one "ear" on the hub side of axle joint was bent inward (toward the u joint) just a bit and it meant that my U joint ring/clip wasn't able to go all the way in properly to the groove of the cap on the joint if that makes sense. I got the clip in to the joint cap so that the pointy ends of the clip are seated in the groove of the U joint cap, but the middle of the clip is not seated in the groove and is very slightly canted so it rests along the edge of the ear. I'm not sure I explained this right, but I wonder if this is a major problem that I need to get fixed.

I also saw that the inner brake pad was worn twice as much as the outer. Would that be because of a bad u joint? I'm hoping that is the case, but I'll now need to get some new brake pads in there.

so for anyone still reading:

Will the clip be good enough to ride with as is? Or do I need to look at getting a new hub ear on the wheel side? Thanks to all for the help. This is quite a challenge!

Dan91

U joint wont cause any brake issues. The knuckles could have notches worn in them from the brake pads and just be binding the pads from sliding slightly. In any case uneven brake pad wear isnt that bad in the way you described. They will still function properly.

caged

usually if you can't get the clips in, there's usually a dropped needle. but in short of pulling it back out and risk damaging that new joint, try smacking the ear with a hammer and punch. that should open it up enough to tap the clip in using same hammer and punch. i use a flat chisel.

how does the new joint feel? is it stiff the one way?

mike albo

I was referring to the bolts that hold this mount to the frame rail.On mine they were all loose.

bruni86xj

are you lifted? if so how much? you may need a drop pitman arm sounds like you have bumpsteerm are all your angles correct like the pic labeling all the parts Muaddib420 posted?

SirLips

I took the Xj for its first play in the mud this weekend, and afterwards the jeep gave me a massage at about 50 mph.


I did alittle youtube searching and found the problem.. I took it to the local shop, and they confirmed it.

He told me that 90 % of "death wobble" comes from 2 things..1) loose or ovaled out bolt on the "wheel side" of the track bar, or 2) the ball joint is bad on the other end.

Sure enough, thats what it was. $61.50 at NAPA, and about 10 minutes of nuckle breaking and it was replaced in my garage with no need to jack it up. (actually is easier not to, per the mechanic, and he was correct.)


On my 93, there is bolt and nut (15mm, if i remember corectly) on the one end, and the other end has a castle nut coming down from the top, onto the ball joint.

FYI, take a white marker or chalk, and draw a line from where the cotter pin is, so it makes it easy to line up the castle nut groves, to fit in the cotter pin, as it is not in an easy place to see, when the bar is re-attached.

Take the BOLT end off first, then you can "wiggle"/ "torque" the ball joint out with no tools.

Use the grease zirk from the old bar, as the new ones didnt come with one, from NAPA.

No need for any special tool, pickle forks, etc... Just a socket set, hammer and new cotter pin. And a breaker bar to lossen and tighten the bolts. I did spray it down with JB first though.

chrisl757

well, thanks to all for the great ideas. I did go and check the frame mount bolts (thank you to caged for the pic). They are all tightly rusted in place it seems. I would have never known that mount unbolted.

I'm not lifted, although I am looking into getting old man emu leafs/springs because I hear good things. I don't offroad much, but I do want a smooth quiet ride. If I did get a lift, I'd like something simple and minimal.

I finished the driver side u joint replacement. What a bear these were--rusted in quite well. I just took it for a spin around the block and I am relieved to just have it drive.

I am a little nervous posting this, but the vibrations are a lot less and it takes bumps much better now.

I'm going out to go get some groceries, so we'll see how she does at 55mph.

for the guys who are talking about the track bar wallowing out.....where is it doing that? Is this on the track bar bushing that is on the passenger side? On muaddib's drawing, I would think the ovaling would happen on the drag link where the steering stabilizer hooks up?

chrisl757

I've got it all buttoned up now. I wasn't able to get the ear to bend back and the clip is basically in and I can't imagine it's coming out now. It was a tight feel to the joint initially, but I tapped the joint gently (wrapped a rag around it) to get it moving. by the time I slid the axle back in, it was freely moving. I didn't notice it when I pulled it out. If it gives me trouble, I can always run back to autozone for a new joint.

I definitely learned that there is no substitute for a BFH. I am buying a 3 lb hammer when I get to the store. I don't want to ever do a job like this with a medium sized hammer.

chrisl757

Hi all,
My 55 mph test drive didn't go too well. While the left-right vibes are nearly gone, I now feel an up/down vibe in the steering wheel that set on around 40mph. It got worse with more speed and I slowed down enough to see if vibes would go away. They did, but they came back when I picked up speed.

Is is possible I screwed up a u joint to cause this and how would I check?

I'm not thrilled about heading back to keep buying parts, especially if this will make it worse.

Is it easy to pull the track bar wheel end off and just do a visual inspection to see if there is ovaling?

Any ideas about the up/down shake in the steering wheel?

SirLips

Looking at the picture caged posted, the "bolt" or wheel side of the track bar is on the left side of the picture. (passanger side). It is just a simple bolt, 15mm i believe, use some JB and a breaker bar to get torque on your ratchet/socket. It comes out very easy.

When the bolt is out, pry that end of the track bar out of the bracket, and inspect it and the bolt holes on the bracket. Very easy. Should take you more time to crawl under the jeep than to get that end of the track bar off.


My problem was actually on the other end though, and is very common.


This guys youtube videos are funny, and he acts silly, but he has some great info for novice jeep owners... I would suggest everyone subscribe. he has alot of useful "on the cheap" ideas.


Also, i would suggest you go to a NON-jeep service center at a dealership. Ask the parts guy if they have the part, he will say "no". Ask him to look it up, he will, get the part number and then have HIM call NAPA to make sure they have it (they will) and have him put your name on it. This little task will save you ALOT of money. For example my $61 track bar was supposed to be $98, but i got the "dealership price".

chrisl757

Thanks for the info on the track bar.

I drove halfway to work and turned around this morning because the steering wheel and front end seems to vibrate more now at 60mph +.

The only thing I recently changed is the U joints on both sides. I got them in and the Jeep is rolling ok at lower speeds.

I'll be honest--I am scared that I screwed something up with the Ujoints, but it wouldn't make sense that it rides fine at 50 mph and then the U joints start acting up at 60 mph. I torqued all the wheel hub nuts down properly.

The pop that I used to have on a hard right turn seems to be gone.

I'm going to go out and take pictures of the track bar bushing end when I pull it down.

SirLips, how'd you know that the tie rod end of the track bar was bad since that was your problem?
I am really scared guys.

Muaddib420

Maybe it's time to take it in and get a proper diagnosis.

vandelden21

Plus one to bleepinjeep guy definitely has great info. I learned a ton about his leaf spring vids. Minus the fact it sounded like he **** himself while removing the leaf springs lmao.

chrisl757

I tried to loosen up the track bar mounting bolt (passenger side) and it is very very tight. When I put my back into it with a 1/2 inch ratchet, it seemed like the head of the bolt was about to give.

I didn't want to push too much harder because I was afraid I'd shear it off. I could put a breaker on it, but I don't want to break it off now (need to go somewhere later today).

SirLips

Chrisl757,

I took it to the shop and asked nicely if a mechanic could just look under the front, to see if anything "jumps out at him" because i was told that it is usually VERY obvious what the problem is. He came out, i turned the wheel left a bit, then right a bit, and before i could turn it back he said "got it!". He showed me where to look, then he turned the wheel back and forth a couple times, i KNOW NOTHING about vehicles and it was very obvious to me, when he told me where to look.



Simply have someone turn the wheel a 1/4 turn left, then right then left... Look at the "ball joint" on the "right" (per the picture above) driver side, when the wheel turns it will move all kinds of wrong ways. Or, it will have alot of play in it. Mine actually moved up and down a bit, besides having "play" in it. Do the same thing with all of the other joints in the system. Also, do this with the "bolt end" to see if it is moving at all. Just sitting in place, that side shouldnt move at all, as it just travels up and down, and the tires are not moving up and down when you are just parked.


Like the above poster commented, if you are so worried that you turned around 1/2 way to work...just go to a local shop and ask them to "quick peek" under the front. I doubt you will have a hard time finding someone to just look quick, as long as you are not asking them to put it on the lift and start testing everything.


The good news is almost all of those "bars and rods" you see, are pretty inexpensive if you are getting just standard equipment.

I will be lifting the ole girl i just bought soon, thats when you dont want to see these things go bad...adjustable rods and bars get alot more money.


Anyway. Hope that helps.


BTW, about the bolt not coming loose. Be sure to JB it good first. Its a cheap can of "help". you will need it for other things on the jeep anyway. ALSO, you will need a breaker bar of some kind, to get you some torque on the socket. I use an old pipe off of a "back seat coat rack rod" from a vehicle i dont have anymore. An old pipe...anything that you can fit the ratchet handle into. I needed to use it to take the bolt almost all the way off, not just to break it loose. MAKE SURE you are using the right sized socket. I am almost 100% sure that bolt is metric not sae. if memory serves me correctly it is a 15 mm bolt, but i may be confusing that with the bumper bolts i also pulled off that day. BUT, metric is probably what you need. 5.99 at fleetfarm/menards for a cheap set. Worst thing that happens is you break the bolt, which i would be very suprised, and you put a new one in.