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Third coolant leak in a month.

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Old 12-08-2017, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
My fault, but I have broken several necks on plastic radiators trying to replace a hose. Chasing one possible source after another until you find it is a chore. I have learned to just pressure test it from the get go and be done with the searching.
oh I agreed. I didn't say the pressure test was a bad idea or not to do it. Just thought I'd toss out a few things that could be easily visually checked in the meantime was all.
We've all (self included) accidentally done something like that before. Even when trying to be careful, sometimes s*** just happens.
Old 12-09-2017, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RocketMouse
oh I agreed. I didn't say the pressure test was a bad idea or not to do it. Just thought I'd toss out a few things that could be easily visually checked in the meantime was all.
We've all (self included) accidentally done something like that before. Even when trying to be careful, sometimes s*** just happens.
Oh absolutely! My comment was in total support and agreement with your whole reply. I was just confessing to breaking things myself, it is easy to do by accident, and this possibility can't be mentally ruled out just because the radiator is new, in fact it would be the first thing I would double check with a pressure check. If it sounded contrary I did not mean for it to.
Old 12-09-2017, 12:54 PM
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cool.... and no worries mate

I'd have to say on pretty much any project I do myself, especially on older vehicles like my XJ.... I'm always concerned that no matter the precautions I take in soaking bolts with WD40/PB blaster, etc. or heating up with a torch, And take care in how I loosen ones in and around the block, that I'm gonna snap one right off in it and I'll be totally screwed. Especially knowing that a lot of them probably have been in since it was new and never taken out until me trying it.
Old 12-10-2017, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by RocketMouse
cool.... and no worries mate

I'd have to say on pretty much any project I do myself, especially on older vehicles like my XJ.... I'm always concerned that no matter the precautions I take in soaking bolts with WD40/PB blaster, etc. or heating up with a torch, And take care in how I loosen ones in and around the block, that I'm gonna snap one right off in it and I'll be totally screwed. Especially knowing that a lot of them probably have been in since it was new and never taken out until me trying it.
I worked for a company who owned nothing but Peterbilts with the ISX Cummins. Cummins I6 engines have a multi-piece exhaust manifold system that had issues with cracking and sections needed replacing quite regularly. The temp difference between the head and the exhaust sections would shear the bolts inside but yet leave them in place still holding the manifold. It didn't take me long to realize you better just not even try to remove these bolts at all without first taking the time to heat these and let them cool down again or everyone of them will snap coming off.

Like what you share here, This is just another example of why one is better off just going through the extra time and motions right from the beginning or it will probably cost you much much more time and work in the end because you didn't. In the case of these Trucks... I had Dispatchers yelling at me to get it rolling, I had the driver yelling at me because the dispatcher was yelling at him, and I had my regional manager yelling at me all at the same time. Nope... slow down guys...or this truck will be down much much longer if I have to drill all these out.

"But the driver says you aren't even working on it!" Nope... the bolts are cooling back down, then I will have it together and rolling out in 5 minutes. lol
Old 12-10-2017, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
I worked for a company who owned nothing but Peterbilts with the ISX Cummins. Cummins I6 engines have a multi-piece exhaust manifold system that had issues with cracking and sections needed replacing quite regularly. The temp difference between the head and the exhaust sections would shear the bolts inside but yet leave them in place still holding the manifold. It didn't take me long to realize you better just not even try to remove these bolts at all without first taking the time to heat these and let them cool down again or everyone of them will snap coming off.

Like what you share here, This is just another example of why one is better off just going through the extra time and motions right from the beginning or it will probably cost you much much more time and work in the end because you didn't. In the case of these Trucks... I had Dispatchers yelling at me to get it rolling, I had the driver yelling at me because the dispatcher was yelling at him, and I had my regional manager yelling at me all at the same time. Nope... slow down guys...or this truck will be down much much longer if I have to drill all these out.

"But the driver says you aren't even working on it!" Nope... the bolts are cooling back down, then I will have it together and rolling out in 5 minutes. lol
Just gotta love the literal ton of BS that comes with the corporate automotive repair/maint. world. It's like, "I can give it to ya when you want it... but 5 miles down the road the wheels will fall off... or you can just stick a cork in it, let me fix it right and you won't have to get it fixed a 2nd time."
It's a wonderful world of those in charge being the same ones that have absolutely no clue how the work should be completed correctly in the first place.

yeah... I like to get things done on my vehicles as efficiently as I can...but I also know from years of experience that rushing it will only make it a much longer project than it would've been in the first place. For ones that are really stubborn, I've even soaked them overnight. And boom, the next day, they come off like butter instead of broken off in the head, block or other PITA place to repair a broken one. (assuming it's one that I can't get in there to heat up a little...or would be unwise to do so)
Old 12-11-2017, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by RocketMouse
Just gotta love the literal ton of BS that comes with the corporate automotive repair/maint. world. It's like, "I can give it to ya when you want it... but 5 miles down the road the wheels will fall off... or you can just stick a cork in it, let me fix it right and you won't have to get it fixed a 2nd time."
It's a wonderful world of those in charge being the same ones that have absolutely no clue how the work should be completed correctly in the first place.

yeah... I like to get things done on my vehicles as efficiently as I can...but I also know from years of experience that rushing it will only make it a much longer project than it would've been in the first place. For ones that are really stubborn, I've even soaked them overnight. And boom, the next day, they come off like butter instead of broken off in the head, block or other PITA place to repair a broken one. (assuming it's one that I can't get in there to heat up a little...or would be unwise to do so)
Yep, they relate things to how long it takes to make a phone call or send an email. lol The real important thing is to first wrap your head around the difference of whether the position is in fleet maintenance or retail repair. Huge difference in how they operate and the time frames involved.
Old 12-11-2017, 06:30 PM
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once the radiator on mine got replaced the radiator cap began leaking. i replace the cap about once every 18 months as it will take to a random leak. idk wtf but whatever. lower quality rad i’m guessing.
Old 12-11-2017, 09:09 PM
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what pressure rating is the cap you have on it?
Old 12-12-2017, 10:14 AM
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i presume that question is for me. idk what’s on it now, i robbed it from the parts jeep. the one(s) i removed - 16 lb.
Old 12-12-2017, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by s346k
once the radiator on mine got replaced the radiator cap began leaking. i replace the cap about once every 18 months as it will take to a random leak. idk wtf but whatever. lower quality rad i’m guessing.
The underside of the brass button check valve needs periodic cleaning. I don't know how, but stuff gets built up under that button and keeps it from sealing against the rubber correctly.
Old 12-12-2017, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
The underside of the brass button check valve needs periodic cleaning. I don't know how, but stuff gets built up under that button and keeps it from sealing against the rubber correctly.
i had considered this and cleaned them and dressed the rubber seal. i don’t think that’s the issue. the cap on it now from the parts jeep is a rusty, crusty pos but it doesn’t leak. ive fought this issue since day one and i’m at a loss.

ill stop hyjacking ole boys thread now.
Old 12-12-2017, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by s346k
i had considered this and cleaned them and dressed the rubber seal. i don’t think that’s the issue. the cap on it now from the parts jeep is a rusty, crusty pos but it doesn’t leak. ive fought this issue since day one and i’m at a loss.

ill stop hyjacking ole boys thread now.
It could be that their computer is recommending an improper application for that? I wish I had a nickel for every time this has happened to me and the spring wasn't pushing everything down far enough to seal right.
Old 12-12-2017, 06:55 PM
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That's what's on mine and haven't had issues with it yet... Don't know if that's a good or bad thing..but so far so good. That's what the PO had on it and it seals fine. But thinking that's too high... am I wrong?
What's the official data on what pressure rating as to what SHOULD be on our XJ's?
Old 12-13-2017, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by RocketMouse
That's what's on mine and haven't had issues with it yet... Don't know if that's a good or bad thing..but so far so good. That's what the PO had on it and it seals fine. But thinking that's too high... am I wrong?
What's the official data on what pressure rating as to what SHOULD be on our XJ's?
I think depending on year they are rated from 14-16 lbs. But... I have a 13 lb on mine and it has never burped up once even in the 120 degree weather out here.
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