ticking noise is it rod knock?
#1
ticking noise is it rod knock?
2000 XJ Limited 4.0 auto
Driving home I noticed a ticking noise when engine was under load. doesn't really do it at idle. Searched all the forums. Came up with the following possibilities: lifter noise, torque converter to flexplate bolts loose, rod knock or bearing problem. Followed the advice of using mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint noise. it is definitely not coming from the top end. Loudest by oil pan. Do not think it is by transmission. Took it to a local mechanic that offers free estimate. We got it up on the rack and definitely louder underneath, confirming what I heard. Mechanic said could be cracked piston ring or worse problem in the lower engine. Told me to get a new motor. Said he could pull the starter etc. to inspect flywheel for a couple hundred but was not leaning towards that being the issue. The mechanic was pretty adamant that I had larger issue.
By the way, checked oil, oil pressure, etc. All fine and no lack of performance, just loud ticking. Doesn't sound like a rod knock based on hearing that before in other cars.
Any suggestions on how to determine what my next move should be?
Driving home I noticed a ticking noise when engine was under load. doesn't really do it at idle. Searched all the forums. Came up with the following possibilities: lifter noise, torque converter to flexplate bolts loose, rod knock or bearing problem. Followed the advice of using mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint noise. it is definitely not coming from the top end. Loudest by oil pan. Do not think it is by transmission. Took it to a local mechanic that offers free estimate. We got it up on the rack and definitely louder underneath, confirming what I heard. Mechanic said could be cracked piston ring or worse problem in the lower engine. Told me to get a new motor. Said he could pull the starter etc. to inspect flywheel for a couple hundred but was not leaning towards that being the issue. The mechanic was pretty adamant that I had larger issue.
By the way, checked oil, oil pressure, etc. All fine and no lack of performance, just loud ticking. Doesn't sound like a rod knock based on hearing that before in other cars.
Any suggestions on how to determine what my next move should be?
#2
2000 XJ Limited 4.0 auto
Driving home I noticed a ticking noise when engine was under load. doesn't really do it at idle. Searched all the forums. Came up with the following possibilities: lifter noise, torque converter to flexplate bolts loose, rod knock or bearing problem. Followed the advice of using mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint noise. it is definitely not coming from the top end. Loudest by oil pan. Do not think it is by transmission. Took it to a local mechanic that offers free estimate. We got it up on the rack and definitely louder underneath, confirming what I heard. Mechanic said could be cracked piston ring or worse problem in the lower engine. Told me to get a new motor. Said he could pull the starter etc. to inspect flywheel for a couple hundred but was not leaning towards that being the issue. The mechanic was pretty adamant that I had larger issue.
By the way, checked oil, oil pressure, etc. All fine and no lack of performance, just loud ticking. Doesn't sound like a rod knock based on hearing that before in other cars.
Any suggestions on how to determine what my next move should be?
Driving home I noticed a ticking noise when engine was under load. doesn't really do it at idle. Searched all the forums. Came up with the following possibilities: lifter noise, torque converter to flexplate bolts loose, rod knock or bearing problem. Followed the advice of using mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint noise. it is definitely not coming from the top end. Loudest by oil pan. Do not think it is by transmission. Took it to a local mechanic that offers free estimate. We got it up on the rack and definitely louder underneath, confirming what I heard. Mechanic said could be cracked piston ring or worse problem in the lower engine. Told me to get a new motor. Said he could pull the starter etc. to inspect flywheel for a couple hundred but was not leaning towards that being the issue. The mechanic was pretty adamant that I had larger issue.
By the way, checked oil, oil pressure, etc. All fine and no lack of performance, just loud ticking. Doesn't sound like a rod knock based on hearing that before in other cars.
Any suggestions on how to determine what my next move should be?
#3
would that throw a diagnostic code? I have a reader. I think the mechanic i brought it to would have jumped on a chance to replace something like that. he did not suggest that he provide a new motor. they do not do that.
Last edited by 98 Cherokee Classic; 04-03-2018 at 12:42 PM. Reason: additional info
#5
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 236
From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
That evap ticking is freaking loud when you're right next to it.
I was doing compression testing last weekend and I was kind of shocked at how loud it was. I never hear it while driving or when standing outside the Jeep while it's idling.
I was doing compression testing last weekend and I was kind of shocked at how loud it was. I never hear it while driving or when standing outside the Jeep while it's idling.
#6
Unfortunately it was not the purge valve solenoid. i had two friends listen to it and 1 say rod bearing the other says flywheel. i am going to start by inspecting tourque to flexplate bolts.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#7
Bad rod bearings don't "tick" they knock.
Best indicator of a bad rod bearing is "knocking" after warm-up when the engine has been at operating temp. for awhile and in park(i.e. idling)
In other words you don't hear it when the engine is cold at start up, the knocking is extremely noticable when the engine is hot though, in park or "idling"
Cherokee's don't get rod knock, they overheat, ride like crap, the cylinder head cracks, the body rusts out, doors won't open, windows don't go down, deathwobble, water leaks into them in strange places, oil leaks out everywhere, don't forget about vibrations, no heat, I could go on.
I never read much about rod knock though
Best indicator of a bad rod bearing is "knocking" after warm-up when the engine has been at operating temp. for awhile and in park(i.e. idling)
In other words you don't hear it when the engine is cold at start up, the knocking is extremely noticable when the engine is hot though, in park or "idling"
Cherokee's don't get rod knock, they overheat, ride like crap, the cylinder head cracks, the body rusts out, doors won't open, windows don't go down, deathwobble, water leaks into them in strange places, oil leaks out everywhere, don't forget about vibrations, no heat, I could go on.
I never read much about rod knock though
Trending Topics
#8
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 180
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Rod bearing will be loudest under load and rpm. Same as flex plate problem almost lol.
#9
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,566
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fou...emoval-171945/
#10
I had a ticking noise shortly after I bought my '99. Thinking the same thing, lifter tick, rod bearing or flex plate. Easiest one to check is the flex plate. Removed the cover, didn't see anything. Rotated engine and found this (sorry it's blurry)
Had shop replace it and when I saw the old one, it was cracked all the way around and only 1" was still keeping the inner bolt area and the outer half together. Glad I caught it before it broke completely apart.
Had shop replace it and when I saw the old one, it was cracked all the way around and only 1" was still keeping the inner bolt area and the outer half together. Glad I caught it before it broke completely apart.
#11
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,566
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I had a ticking noise shortly after I bought my '99. Thinking the same thing, lifter tick, rod bearing or flex plate. Easiest one to check is the flex plate. Removed the cover, didn't see anything. Rotated engine and found this (sorry it's blurry)
Had shop replace it and when I saw the old one, it was cracked all the way around and only 1" was still keeping the inner bolt area and the outer half together. Glad I caught it before it broke completely apart.
Had shop replace it and when I saw the old one, it was cracked all the way around and only 1" was still keeping the inner bolt area and the outer half together. Glad I caught it before it broke completely apart.
#12
Update. Checked and eliminated flexplate. Looked fine and was tight. Took it to another shop that was highly recommended as Jeep 4.0 experts and they thought it was something in the valve train. Replaced ?rocker arms? and ?some guides? they said were "tweaked". They showed them to me, they were bent and worn. New ones were straight. Back together, $347 including an oil change. Engine noise remains. Now telling me something in the bottom end. Wrist pin? Suggested new engine. Used engine with 155k on it, $1500 just for the engine. Labor and misc. parts another $1500. Anybody who can work on engines want to buy a cool Jeep?
#13
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 180
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Um, they replaced some guides that were 'tweaked'?? Only way to do that is take the head off the engine and do a valve job and lifters. They showed them to you? That would be some trick. Something got tweaked and me thinks it was your wallet.
I say be glad they only soaked you for $370 or whatever and go back to the drawing board.
I say be glad they only soaked you for $370 or whatever and go back to the drawing board.
#14
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 3,498
Likes: 397
From: SoCal
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Update. Checked and eliminated flexplate. Looked fine and was tight. Took it to another shop that was highly recommended as Jeep 4.0 experts and they thought it was something in the valve train. Replaced ?rocker arms? and ?some guides? they said were "tweaked". They showed them to me, they were bent and worn. New ones were straight. Back together, $347 including an oil change. Engine noise remains. Now telling me something in the bottom end. Wrist pin? Suggested new engine. Used engine with 155k on it, $1500 just for the engine. Labor and misc. parts another $1500. Anybody who can work on engines want to buy a cool Jeep?
#15
I am probably not using the right part names. Either way, i got hosed for the $374 based on a usually reliable person's recommendation. They took the valve cover off to check it as they were sure it was coming from the top end. Everything I looked into myself told me different, but I guess i was just naively hoping for an easy fix. Now that my wallet is a little lighter, I am hesitant to dump any more money into her. I love the truck, but is my daily driver, so I have to replace it. The price of XJs in Chicago has gone up since i got this one. Anything with under 150k without completely rusted rockers and the other usual rust spots is over $6k.