step #1
remove all spark plugs
step #2
set the crank to TDC on the balancer
step #3
wrap some duct tape around the blower tip so it fits tight in the #1 spark plug hole and try to pressurize the cylinder
if it just bows in with no back pressure turn the crank one revolution to TDC again the try to pressures the cylinder again
if you get pressure you are on the compression stroke and the chain has not slipped

now step #4 reset distributor to #1 and check firring order

 

 

If you get a chance, pull the dist out and inspect the teeth on the gear on both the distributor and the gear thats on the camshaft. I had a similar issue, kept replacing CPS, and other misc sensors, come to find out the gear on the cam was worn, and this was wearing down the teeth on the dist. In turn it got to a point where it would not start at all, or if it did, it would pop and backfire cuz it was throwing the timing off.

 

When its 180 out it just cranks but won't even start.I think so. will have to check.
we had a brand new distributor in it and it did the same thing.

 

I think I agree with you on the chain and the timing to a certain extent too, Mike37 ... was not suggesting she replace the timing components either, just offering tips in case they do anyway ... a peek at the marks with a timing light will show ... there will be no mark to be seen under the strobe if she is 180 out ... I'm thinkin that she may be less than 180 out too but still way out ... since it does seem to run to a certain extent and I assume stay running ... don't think it could run if it were exactly 180 out. There was some confusion early on their part regarding what was the compression stroke as well ... but I thought we had that issue taken care of .... re read the thread and see if you agree, Mike37.. she probably needs some time off before melting down ... what a PITA ... hang tuff, Karen7

 

some times walking away for a little bit can give you anew perspective on a problem

I wish I could get a look at it in person
its hard to trouble shoot on a forum with something like this cus there are so many variables

 

I am off the case today, lol. my kids started school so I am spending the evening filling out papers and just being mom. I refuse to get greasy today.

Another cousin of mine is coming up to take a look at it, he wants to see if the valves are too tight. Also they gonna check the timing chain cuz we got another puller. We'll see how that goes.

 

the valves cant be to tight they are hydraulic lifters unless the head had some serious resurfacing on it that should not be a issue

and easy way to see if you have a chain problem is to remove the dis cap
and turn the crank with a wrench back and forth if you rotate the crank more than a 1/8 of an inch and the rotor dos not turn you have to much slop in the chain

 

Plus one there, MIke37 ... woulda' been over LONG ago ... such is life

Have fun bein' a mom ... I'd rather twist bolts than ears ..... it's much easier than parenting ... LOL ... have a great day off:+)

 

The timing chain is perfectly in time along with dist, but its still running like crap. My cousins brother in law is a mechanic so he's gonna ask him and see if he can come look at it and give some advice.

 

the more the merrier ...

how do you know for certain that it is perfectly in time, may I be so bold as to inquire? I can't recall you having said what method was used to determine or verify that, K, or did you and I CRS ...lol ?

 

They went by the Haynes manual and checking timing belt by lining up marks and counting pins. Checked dist on time as per the book and your instructions on how to get TDC. Everyone seem to time the dist he same.

 

You're saying they pulled the timing cover and looked at the chain, right? I hate to sound like a broken record, please accept my apology, but did someone look at the timing marks on the balancer and the timing cover with a timing light to see what could (or could not) be seen thataway?

 

I don't know anything about the pin count
but you should have a mark on both gears that you lineup

 

The pin count is the number of 'link pins' between certain points on the chain while measuring between the dots on the sprockets when one sprocket is at the 1 o'clock position and the other is at the 3 o'clock .. confused yet? ... lol ... used for verifiying correct installation OR could show up a chain slip as well if the pin count is wrong. Not really applicable in this exercise, Mike, IMHO.

Don't you think they should LOOK with a timing light ?? .. Holy Moley, how hard could that be? ... maybe no one (but me) even owns one anymore ... lol. Wouldn't be surprised ... very little use for 'em in today's modern computer controlled motors.