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timing? What else could it be?

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Old 09-02-2009, 06:09 PM
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karen7

get a new balancer before you go any farther
you my have been using marks that are not right
Old 09-02-2009, 07:20 PM
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Hmm, sounds somewhat like a worn distributor shaft... you might try this:

Connect an inductive timing light to #1.
Fire up the motor and allow it to idle and check for correct timing.
While strobing the timing marks, give it some gas and observe the timing marks. The timing advance should be smooth.
If it backfires, does the timing jump? If it does, pull the distributor and check for excessive play in the shaft or drive gear.

Just a thought... and good luck!
Old 09-02-2009, 07:27 PM
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Plus one more on that Mike and Dan ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike37
on six different occasions on different vehicles
several people have checked the firing order or distributor position
some even checked by certified mechanics

and I re check and it was the firing order was of or back wards
or distributor was set in off


I want to get my hands on this thing so bad but it way to far for me

Ditto Mike!
Idaho, she had said that at some point they had swapped in a new distributor, IIRC
Old 09-02-2009, 07:31 PM
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Idaho, she had said that at some point they had swapped in a new distributor, IIRC
Ah, sorry, I missed that... (I should have read the first page again...)

Last edited by IdahoXJ; 09-02-2009 at 07:36 PM.
Old 09-02-2009, 07:56 PM
  #125  
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its the harmonic balancer
Old 09-02-2009, 08:16 PM
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I suggested 2 weeks ago to get a new HB but was told by several ppl that it had no effect on the problem. Hence the balancer -to balance and absorb vibration. I asked if it could be throwing off timing chain and causing to slip or wobbling the crankshaft out of balance. I was told NO not the problem.

I think male ego is getting in the way here because everytime I suggest something its brushed off and not done until a week later when he reads it here or another guy says to do it. Several things suggested here I had already suggested but it was not done til a week later. I think he might start to listen to me now.
I have read the manual over and over, highlighed and marked out pages of interest. Every break and lunch break at work is spent searching the internet for a cure/fix/solution. I have read over many jeep forums for answers. I am like a machine. I too, refuse to believe this can't be fixed, I am too determined to give up. I'm afraid it will be so simple and inexpensive to fix that I refuse to give someone else the opportunity to buy and fix it.
Old 09-02-2009, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by karen7
I suggested 2 weeks ago to get a new HB but was told by several ppl that it had no effect on the problem. Hence the balancer -to balance and absorb vibration. I asked if it could be throwing off timing chain and causing to slip or wobbling the crankshaft out of balance. I was told NO not the problem.

I think male ego is getting in the way here because everytime I suggest something its brushed off and not done until a week later when he reads it here or another guy says to do it. Several things suggested here I had already suggested but it was not done til a week later. I think he might start to listen to me now.
I have read the manual over and over, highlighed and marked out pages of interest. Every break and lunch break at work is spent searching the internet for a cure/fix/solution. I have read over many jeep forums for answers. I am like a machine. I too, refuse to believe this can't be fixed, I am too determined to give up. I'm afraid it will be so simple and inexpensive to fix that I refuse to give someone else the opportunity to buy and fix it.
its the balancer 4.0 are notorious for the rubber going bad on the balancer
then the center part can slip from the outer part
then the marks are off
you were probably doing every thing right but the starting point was bogus you had a fals TDC mark

it sounds to me like its retarded to much
if you can
loosen the distributor just enough to turn it with a little resistance
start it up and turn the dis counter clockwise slowly
see if it start to smooth out
if it get worse turn the other way slow see if it smooths out
forget the timing light go by feel
Old 09-02-2009, 08:29 PM
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Karen you sound like a smart girl

just remember just cus they have nuts don't mean they can wrench on them

Last edited by mike37; 09-02-2009 at 08:32 PM.
Old 09-02-2009, 08:40 PM
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Oh yeah ... she is smart ... would love to have her on my team any day. No doubt about the male ego too ... takes guys usually into the mid 30s to really grow up. No offense guys ...we just grow up after the girls do ... fact of life.

Last edited by vistacruiser; 09-03-2009 at 06:55 AM.
Old 09-02-2009, 09:22 PM
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it sounds to me like its retarded to much
if you can
loosen the distributor just enough to turn it with a little resistance
start it up and turn the dis counter clockwise slowly
see if it start to smooth out
if it get worse turn the other way slow see if it smooths out
forget the timing light go by feel
I kno they have been doing this thru the process and yes you can hear it start to smooth out some and bog down like its going to shut off. But it has never really helped the problem of backfire and throttle.
Old 09-03-2009, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by vistacruiser
Please try to read the codes first
No error codes on a Renix system.
Old 09-03-2009, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ol"blue
Is it possible that the CPS and the flywheel are from different years and causing the timing issues? Is the air-gap on the CPS adjustable? A new one comes with a paper spacer that should be left on during installation. Would installing a used one without the spacer cause the gap to be too small?
No, 87-90 all the same. CPS and distributor are not adjustable.
The smaller the gap is the better it is.
Old 09-03-2009, 02:50 AM
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Ok i have read through all this twice and it's incredible that nobody has mentioned:
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve EGR stuck open or EGR pipe not mounted, tightened correctly.
Try to unplug the main vacuum to the EGR valve motor and close it.

Another thing i know fore sure on a Renix cherokee is that if you run out of fuel just a couple of times your pump will go bad.
Every time you run out of gas you need to bleed the fuel rail by turning the pump at least 10 seconds (jumper the relay) and having someone pressing the nozzle on the rail.
Hope this helps.
Old 09-03-2009, 06:54 AM
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Right on, Fantic ... was my stupidity on the error codes ... not being familiar with a Renix, I was actually thinkin it was OBD II at first ... have since learned otherwise. In fact, I have learned a bunch about these old ones on this venture myself. Maybe I'll get me one for s***ts and giggles to play around with ... what do you think is the best year and model??

Good idea on the EGR too ... she says there is 30 + psi of fuel pressure as the motor dies ... so I wonder about the pump being bad?? Could there be plenty of pressure and it still run out of fuel? I do agree about these pumps failing after being run dry too .. happens .... most cars for the last 25 or 30yrs have used this same style of pump, IIRC. Have dropped more tanks than I care to remember ... yuuk!
Old 09-03-2009, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by fantic238
Ok i have read through all this twice and it's incredible that nobody has mentioned:
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve EGR stuck open or EGR pipe not mounted, tightened correctly.
Try to unplug the main vacuum to the EGR valve motor and close it.

Another thing i know fore sure on a Renix cherokee is that if you run out of fuel just a couple of times your pump will go bad.
Every time you run out of gas you need to bleed the fuel rail by turning the pump at least 10 seconds (jumper the relay) and having someone pressing the nozzle on the rail.
Hope this helps.

Yes the EGR was checked first thing. 1 of my cousins checked it. We can recheck it tho. And we will be doing the fuel pump then and try to bleed it properly. *Need to get O-ring kit for injectors and HB before going any further testing anything.

Last edited by karen7; 09-03-2009 at 02:57 PM.


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