Hi friends, I welcome your thoughts on advice on what should be a simply binary decision. Which of two sets of tires I already own, should I use to drive across the country in a fully loaded xj?

Full loaded is within weight limits, but interior full with luggage, lite but long trailer, and Thule on the roof. I am moving for good. I will be driving from California to Atlanta, mostly on highway 40 in the end of May/early June so heat and summer traffic.

Vehicle: Automatic 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport. 4L, 6 in line.
I own two set of tires:

(A) 215/75/r14 100s Corsa: Highway/terrain plus max load 800kg (only singled listed). Treadware 540. Traction A Temp B

(B) 235/75/R15 – BF Goodrich Baja Champion all terrain. Load C. Single =900kg double 825kg= 104/101s
Both sets of tires have worn treads, but still good. The Baja’s/235s have one really good tire, 2 medium wear and one more worn. I think previous owner didn’t do a a wheel rotation

• see link 215s vs 235s

So, I am leaning towards the 235’s as despite loss in gas mileage and comfort they have really good stopping power and should better handle my fully loaded move. What do y’ll think?

Trailer is a very lite boat trailer (trailex SUT 220-S). I will be hauling a 19 foot kayak (Hobbie tandem island ) plus additional gear up to close to the trailers weight limit (220lbs). Total wight of trailer plus gear ~345lbs. So weight will primarily be distributed on the jeep. The long nature of the trailer makes it fairy stable on the highway. 12 inch diameter wheels.

With a curb weight of 3305 lbs and a recommended max load of 1150lbs I would still be ~~500lbs under tire specs assuming trailer weight is split 50/50 between itself and jeep. is that margin to close ?

Additionally I run an aftermarket transmission cooler, as well as heavy duty fan clutch. To beat the heat.

I will post which ever set of tires I don’t use for sale on the relevant thread on this site

-Brandon

 

Short answer. BFGs inflated appropriately for the load. I researched Corsa tires. They're "okay", but given the choice for your application, BFG.

With an auto trans, you should have the 3.55 axle ratio.

Cooling system. The 2000s had a cylinder head which is prone to cracking. Not that they all crack.....
Just for fun, check near the valve cover area on the head between cylinders 3 and 4 on the driver's side. Hopefully you see "TUPY" stamped there.
Your cooling system needs to be in tip top shape for this trip.

 

How old are each set of tires? The manufacture date is molded into the sidewall.

 

I am noticing a rim size difference also. I would think the 215 /14's would significantly increase the engine RPM's?

 

I didn't catch that. The 14s.

 

Apologies, that was a typographical error on my part. they are both R15s so rims are the same

 

Thanks for the advice. Sadly yes, the head is from the bad batch. I should have mentioned that. and mileage is 208180. Luckily the previous owner was refurbishing it as a pet project so he pointed it out, as well as was systematically replacing alot of things. I got the large fan clutch form him, which I run in the summer, and replace with the stock in colder months. So far no milky oil, no odd oil pressure readings. i try to check the oil on any long drives.

Thanks

 

I've driven some crap cars on crap tires on some really long trips back in the day. My advice, underinflation is the biggest enemy of tires. Sidewall flexing causes heat which is bad. Secondly, 60 mph is ALOT easier on a loaded car than 70 mph is. It takes considerable more power and fuel to go that extra 10mph.

And that roof rack is going to make a very un-aerodynamic vehicle even more like a brick. I would only use it if absolutely needed.

As far as tire choice, visual inspection for sidewall cracks and cracks between treads, plus age of the tires should be taken into consideration as well. Or if possible, 300 bucks on a new set of highway tread cheap tires would be better yet. I found a set of Nexen 235's on line for 60 bucks each.