not entirely false...there is a scanner tool.you can use on the renix it a like a snap on 5010 or something , not a true code reader but can help you find some problems

Not trying to get picky, just saying it does exist

 

i had a camaro that did this and it ended up being an ignition coil. you can get an msd one for 40 dollars at advanced auto.

it could also be a cracked plug wire grounding out. this was also a camaro problem i had.

 

I'm aware of that. But the statement was false enough that it could have sent someone on a wild goose chase unnnecessarily. I have the factory DRB scan tool which reads live data.

 

got a good point here. no need post false info. ive had people do this to me and end up costing me lots of money

 

Thats what I was thinking of the MAP, If thats not reading right it could affect driveability no?

 

Sensor ground circuit needs to be tested before proceeding. Read the instructions and see how many sensor readings it can screw up. Take 3 minutes 42 seconds to check.

 

Yes, but if the sensor ground circuit is messed up, and they frequently are due to bad crimps, nothing reads right to the ECU.

It's easy to fix if that's a problem, too.

 

thanks cruiser i will test that as soon as i get off work tonight. do i need an analog meter for this or will a digital one work?

 

Digital is fine for everything. Only possibility of it not being appropriate is for testing the TPS doing a sweep test. That's rare anyway.

 

codes or no codes this is exactly what i suggested to do so im i am wrong about reading codes but its still same problem, very common to have bad connection on the plug is all i was trying to say which would result in little or no signal to the ECU. and just because you get a good reading on your multi meter deos not mean you have a good tight connection on the plug it self

 

We're not in a contest here, are we?

This should also help any Renix owners:
I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012

 

lol no competition i just wish he would clean and check his connectors already were both saying the same thing haha

 

In this post, I am suggesting cleaning the connectors. In my earlier posts I've been advocating checking a sensor ground circuit which is notorious for having poor connections you can't see. The circuit must be tested to determine if a repair is needed.

You have been suggesting a few connectors because it was YOUR problem.

There are too many variables here and multiple things cause the same issue.

 

okay so i just got home from work and ran outside to do the test that cruiser suggested and when it just sits there the meter reads at 0.00 when i wiggle it around or move the red probe around a little it jumps around, sometimes even up to 20.00 and eventually comes back down to 0.00

 

Probably oughta do this then:

Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold.
Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side　is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be　 spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector.
　
Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender.
　
You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine.
　
Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing.
　
Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement.　I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done.
　
　
Revised 03-09-12