Has anyone altered the STOCK trackbar to make them adjustable?

 

I don't know that you can...and I don't think it would be long enough to cut the frame and and tap it for a johnny joint or tre..

 

I made a longer nonadjustable one for a trail only Jeep. Just cut and sleeved it and then rewelded it. Never considered making it adjustable but it would not be too hard but they are kinda thin tubing.

 

What if

A piece of round stock (CR1045/CR1037) machined to fit inside.
Drilled and tapped for JJ
Pressed into TB and then TIG welded.

Lil Red meeds some serious re-centering. This is the start to getting the front-end back in order.

 

To me it would seem to be easier to just orders an adjustable one. That way you know it will work. The thing too with the stock track bar, its thin. If you going to be trailing then you need something thicker. That my opinion.

 

Who said anything about trailing...this is currently my DD. NEED it roadworthy FIRST then worry about the other portions of terra-firma

 

4wd hardware sells a stock like adjustable trackbar. Basically it has the same joint end as our stockers do and a poly bushing. They aren't the best and don't offere huge range of flex but get the job done.

Converting the oem units to be adjustable would be a waste really. They don't offer much flex in them and the rod end cannot be rebuilt so once you over-flex it and destroy the rod, it's over. The aftermarket bars can be rebuilt and the ends can be replaced too.

 

I would try your method but I can mig weld but never tried TIG welding. Looked to much like brazing thus not much penetration. May be wrong on that. The TIG certainly is pretty looking welds.

 

 

You gonna try it? I think if you use some solid stock inside the tube it will be stronger that the OEM crap that DC sent them out with.

 

Gonna try it?

Sure.

BUT gonna grab one from J/Y. This way I at least have the original working unit in one piece.

TIG welding, in this case, would be better than MIG. TIG has a more pin-pointed (controlled) arc whereas MIG has a wider arcing that gives off indirect heat which in turn distorts the surrounding "thin" metal, weakening it.

Besides TIG makes a prettier weld.

 

Well ran to j/y today with my little woman. Good to have a helping hand.

Found a 93 Sport with the engine removed and up on blocks...how sweet.

Grabbed the draglink and TRE as they looked fairly new and were as stiff as could be. Besides, it gets them out of the way.
I was hoping to grab the upper mount also, but the nuts/bolts said no-way we're would sooner round over than allow this guy to mess with us.
And as Murphy would have it, I forgot my fork to pop the end off.

Let the beatings commence. Several whacks with my BFH (several HARD hits) proved useless. Rotating forward I gave the axle end a light rap...POP.
Dropped out.

Saw at least two XJ's different years, that had the front axle burned out.
At least 3-4" into the trackbar...its SOLID. Where does this "thin wall tubing" everyone speaks of start?

Closer inspection of trackbar...
This is a tube? Heaviest TUBE I have ever encountered. IF it actually is a tube it must have a very small inner diameter. And besides, it is also the toughest tube I have ever beaten on with a BFH. that didn't even ding.

I will know more when I attack it with a cutting instrument.

Also, the lower end (axle-end) appears to be cast. Does not look like an end welded onto a tube at all.

Picked off a set of "non-breakaway manual remote" mirrors off this 93.
NEVER saw any mirrors like these. I will post some pics when installing them.
$5ea. Not gonna complain.
Also, this Sport had a Lund Bugshield. Someone took off and forgot. $3 wow.
Needless to say, they took the mounting tabs that space it away from the header...I screwed it directly, pics to come for that too.

 

why dont you just buy a new one that is already adjustable?

 

Bet he is like me and would rather build than buy whatever you can build. Everything is made in China and I think I can fab up stuff better than they can.

 

I don't feel like spending over $160 for an adjustable trackbar that was designed for a minimun 4" lift. Mine is barely 3".

For it to work correctly, I would have to modify it. And dayum if I am gonna start hacking away at a $160+ item.

Found a real nice rod end at Speedway motors. Less than $20.
ID of sleeve is perfect and overall width is just right.

But before I order I need to finalize a few things.

I will be modifying the axle-end as this is the easiest. Long straight section...easier to work with.