Tranny leak
#1
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I just bought a 92 cherokee sport utility. Im new to jeeps and dont have everything necessary for what i need to do with my transmission. I know the front seal is leaking and the bolts below that seem to be leaking as well. If i could i would do this all myself but because of a lack of tools and a lift im most likely just gonna take it into a shop. My question is how much on average should it cost? I want to know if im being screwed oved with an expenisve price for something that shouldnt cost so much.
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Welcome to the forum!
Well, that depends on whether you remove the trans and take it in to be rebuilt, or if they have to pull it. Figure a few hundred to pull it themselves. Not sure on the amount, because I do that myself when needed.
For a trans rebuild, figure in the thousand dollar range, plus or minus two or three hundred. It's going to vary by location, and how bad things are inside. For just a front seal? Not sure, but I would guess a couple hundred, anyway.
But before you go there, how is the trans working? Is it fully functional? Is the leak the only problem?
Are you sure it's the trans that is leaking? Sometimes leaks from the engine wind up in that area. Most often, people mistake these for a rear main seal leak, but sometimes a trans front seal. Clean things up really well, engine and trans, and make sure you know where that leak is coming from before you spend any money.
If the leak is the only problem, it can't hurt to try some AT-205. I have used that many times, with mixed success ranging from the spectacularly good to the, 'oh well, at least it didn't cost much to try'. It depends on the nature of the leak and the type of seals you have, I guess. It's good on engines, trans, power steering, any place that uses a petroleum lubricant.
Well, that depends on whether you remove the trans and take it in to be rebuilt, or if they have to pull it. Figure a few hundred to pull it themselves. Not sure on the amount, because I do that myself when needed.
For a trans rebuild, figure in the thousand dollar range, plus or minus two or three hundred. It's going to vary by location, and how bad things are inside. For just a front seal? Not sure, but I would guess a couple hundred, anyway.
But before you go there, how is the trans working? Is it fully functional? Is the leak the only problem?
Are you sure it's the trans that is leaking? Sometimes leaks from the engine wind up in that area. Most often, people mistake these for a rear main seal leak, but sometimes a trans front seal. Clean things up really well, engine and trans, and make sure you know where that leak is coming from before you spend any money.
If the leak is the only problem, it can't hurt to try some AT-205. I have used that many times, with mixed success ranging from the spectacularly good to the, 'oh well, at least it didn't cost much to try'. It depends on the nature of the leak and the type of seals you have, I guess. It's good on engines, trans, power steering, any place that uses a petroleum lubricant.
#3
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Welcome to the forum!
Well, that depends on whether you remove the trans and take it in to be rebuilt, or if they have to pull it. Figure a few hundred to pull it themselves. Not sure on the amount, because I do that myself when needed.
For a trans rebuild, figure in the thousand dollar range, plus or minus two or three hundred. It's going to vary by location, and how bad things are inside. For just a front seal? Not sure, but I would guess a couple hundred, anyway.
But before you go there, how is the trans working? Is it fully functional? Is the leak the only problem?
Are you sure it's the trans that is leaking? Sometimes leaks from the engine wind up in that area. Most often, people mistake these for a rear main seal leak, but sometimes a trans front seal. Clean things up really well, engine and trans, and make sure you know where that leak is coming from before you spend any money.
If the leak is the only problem, it can't hurt to try some AT-205. I have used that many times, with mixed success ranging from the spectacularly good to the, 'oh well, at least it didn't cost much to try'. It depends on the nature of the leak and the type of seals you have, I guess. It's good on engines, trans, power steering, any place that uses a petroleum lubricant.
Well, that depends on whether you remove the trans and take it in to be rebuilt, or if they have to pull it. Figure a few hundred to pull it themselves. Not sure on the amount, because I do that myself when needed.
For a trans rebuild, figure in the thousand dollar range, plus or minus two or three hundred. It's going to vary by location, and how bad things are inside. For just a front seal? Not sure, but I would guess a couple hundred, anyway.
But before you go there, how is the trans working? Is it fully functional? Is the leak the only problem?
Are you sure it's the trans that is leaking? Sometimes leaks from the engine wind up in that area. Most often, people mistake these for a rear main seal leak, but sometimes a trans front seal. Clean things up really well, engine and trans, and make sure you know where that leak is coming from before you spend any money.
If the leak is the only problem, it can't hurt to try some AT-205. I have used that many times, with mixed success ranging from the spectacularly good to the, 'oh well, at least it didn't cost much to try'. It depends on the nature of the leak and the type of seals you have, I guess. It's good on engines, trans, power steering, any place that uses a petroleum lubricant.
I can attack a picture of where the leak is coming from sometime later today or possibly pretty soon.
#4
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Welcome to the forum!
Well, that depends on whether you remove the trans and take it in to be rebuilt, or if they have to pull it. Figure a few hundred to pull it themselves. Not sure on the amount, because I do that myself when needed.
For a trans rebuild, figure in the thousand dollar range, plus or minus two or three hundred. It's going to vary by location, and how bad things are inside. For just a front seal? Not sure, but I would guess a couple hundred, anyway.
But before you go there, how is the trans working? Is it fully functional? Is the leak the only problem?
Are you sure it's the trans that is leaking? Sometimes leaks from the engine wind up in that area. Most often, people mistake these for a rear main seal leak, but sometimes a trans front seal. Clean things up really well, engine and trans, and make sure you know where that leak is coming from before you spend any money.
If the leak is the only problem, it can't hurt to try some AT-205. I have used that many times, with mixed success ranging from the spectacularly good to the, 'oh well, at least it didn't cost much to try'. It depends on the nature of the leak and the type of seals you have, I guess. It's good on engines, trans, power steering, any place that uses a petroleum lubricant.
Well, that depends on whether you remove the trans and take it in to be rebuilt, or if they have to pull it. Figure a few hundred to pull it themselves. Not sure on the amount, because I do that myself when needed.
For a trans rebuild, figure in the thousand dollar range, plus or minus two or three hundred. It's going to vary by location, and how bad things are inside. For just a front seal? Not sure, but I would guess a couple hundred, anyway.
But before you go there, how is the trans working? Is it fully functional? Is the leak the only problem?
Are you sure it's the trans that is leaking? Sometimes leaks from the engine wind up in that area. Most often, people mistake these for a rear main seal leak, but sometimes a trans front seal. Clean things up really well, engine and trans, and make sure you know where that leak is coming from before you spend any money.
If the leak is the only problem, it can't hurt to try some AT-205. I have used that many times, with mixed success ranging from the spectacularly good to the, 'oh well, at least it didn't cost much to try'. It depends on the nature of the leak and the type of seals you have, I guess. It's good on engines, trans, power steering, any place that uses a petroleum lubricant.
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cherokeeforum.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20191104_155404_bc7e9e16549daa714b9f97aa43a94870350508d1.jpg)
This one is actuslly from my jeep. Forgot i had taken a picture of the problem area already. Since this was taken i have cleaned it off a bit though.
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#5
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If you dont have the gear, dont try to R&R the trans yourself.
I dont know on the AW4, but most trans have 2 seals in the front and sometimes need dismantling to get them, the shifter seal should always be changed with the trans out, and may as well do the rear as well
Its 99% your quick disconnect line to the radiator are also leaking
It cost over $3K for a R&R + rebuild here (over $2k US)..no one would ever do it for $1k
If I was you, I would ask for a quote or estimate from an AT specialist to R&R + seals
I would also clean the thing really good
I dont know on the AW4, but most trans have 2 seals in the front and sometimes need dismantling to get them, the shifter seal should always be changed with the trans out, and may as well do the rear as well
Its 99% your quick disconnect line to the radiator are also leaking
It cost over $3K for a R&R + rebuild here (over $2k US)..no one would ever do it for $1k
If I was you, I would ask for a quote or estimate from an AT specialist to R&R + seals
I would also clean the thing really good
#6
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Yeah, that's trans fluid. BTW, those bolts are to hold an inspection plate in place. There's normally no fluid in behind them. It's almost certainly the front seal.
I R&R'd the transmission from my Ford E350 1 ton van with no special tools. I used an ordinary floor jack instead of a transmission jack. I did this with the van up on Harbor Freight jack stands, on a gravel driveway. It's not a fun job, but it's nothing that should scare any backyard mechanic. It's not complicated.
Rebuilding one, or replacing seals, isn't something I have tackled, so I can't comment on that.
I R&R'd the transmission from my Ford E350 1 ton van with no special tools. I used an ordinary floor jack instead of a transmission jack. I did this with the van up on Harbor Freight jack stands, on a gravel driveway. It's not a fun job, but it's nothing that should scare any backyard mechanic. It's not complicated.
Rebuilding one, or replacing seals, isn't something I have tackled, so I can't comment on that.
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Year: 1989
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If the back of the block or the front face of the inspection are oily, I would look suspect a leaking valve cover or oil filter adapter first. Both are very common on the Cherokees. Have a good look at the trans cooler lines as well, because I see a drop of oil hanging there too. Sometimes the metal clamps that hold the lines wear through and you get a leak.
To confirm it's the trans front seal, you need to remove that inspection plate and see if there's oil in the bell housing. Oil on the forward face of the flexplate would likely be the engine rear main seal. Check the flexplate doesn't look cracked and the bolt are tight while you're there.
To confirm it's the trans front seal, you need to remove that inspection plate and see if there's oil in the bell housing. Oil on the forward face of the flexplate would likely be the engine rear main seal. Check the flexplate doesn't look cracked and the bolt are tight while you're there.
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#8
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I have done that job on my '99. That front seal hardens and then starts leaking. Once it leaks, it puts out a lot of white smoke since it drops right on to the exhaust. The biggest hassle of the whole job is getting the e-torx bolts off the top of the transmission. I imagine a shop would charge 2-3 hours to remove, 1-2 hours to replace the seal and drain the torque converter and replace any other seals as needed, and 2-3 hours to replace it. I did it with the Jeep on jack stands, a motorcycle/ATV jack at the front and a regular hydraulic jack under the transfer case. The front input seal is couple of dollars. So 5-8 hours labor + parts + trans fluid change is what would seem reasonable to me.
While I was in there, I replaced some of the other seals, but they seemed to be in a lot better shape than the front input seal.
While I was in there, I replaced some of the other seals, but they seemed to be in a lot better shape than the front input seal.
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