Spencer_P

I have a hood with vents that can be installed for any hot summer towing.
My transmission lines are leaking at the crimp connections. I planned to cut them off and repair with the line I use for the cooler. What part exactly of the line is the quick connect and how would I go about replacing them?

Very Red XJ

Where the lines enter the transmission there is a screw connection with white/yellow plastic tabs sticking out at the center around the cooling tubes '


BTW, what is the tong weight of your trailer? For the 275lb force on my T@B. I lifted the back 1" higher then the front so it would set level

Spencer_P

I don't have a trailer yet, I'm just interested in getting one, plus it gave me an excuse to pull the trigger on these parts.

bluejeep2001

Just a sidenote...no free lunch....the aux cooler heats the air passing through it, thus cooling the tranny fluid. This hotter air than ambient is now flowing over the radiator which takes less of the heat from the coolant because its hotter air. Its like driving in 110 deg compared to 80. Its like driving with the ac on, you run hotter because the condenser is hot.It keeps the tranny cooler but makes the coolant warmer. Our crappy cooling system is already working pretty hard, so the radiator is less efficient. In winter...no issue, in summer...well you know how jeeps run in the summer traffic. Its still a good idea no matter what but all that extra heat doesn't just magically disappear Also remember...tow in 3 not OD. I tow my 6000 lb boat 10-15 miles several times a year but on mostly flat LI. Accel is fair , im stroked but stopping quickly is more of "really" ..does this look light to you..? I also bypass the fan control so its always on i can keep it at or below 210-ish

Very Red XJ

Indeed, good points! That's why I got a larger capacity Mishimoto radiator/transmission cooler rather than just place a cooler in front of the radiator. My T@B only weighs 2,000lbs and places 275lbs on my hitch. Fortunately, my trailer has electric brakes with a controller in the cab. Pulling 6,000lbs with an XJ will make you a careful driver out of necessity.

MaskedMallard

Here is the link to my build, where I addressed the stuff you are wanting to do. I mounted my gauge by the 4x4 shifter. It's really no different than looking down to adjust the radio or the A/C. I like the fact it's color coded, & just know what the colors represent.

I'd also put in a larger radiator, & a high flow cooling system set up (HESCO waterpump, HESCO highflow thermostat housing).

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177...build-3742993/

robsjeep

keep in mind..
1. Most auxiliary tranny coolers are much smaller than the radiator. some block very little of the radiator, maybe 1/10 or 1/20 th of the radiator area. Thus most of the radiator receives ambient air passing thru.
2. The jeep radiator has extra capacity in most cases. so a little extra tranny heat should not push the water cooling system to overheating.

The transmission is very sensitive to heat, it dont take much extra heat to drastically shorten the life of the tranny. It is imperative to keep the tranny fluid cool, even at expense of a slightly hotter radiator. http://txchange.com/heatchrt.htm

Also, always shift manually to avoid long travel with torque converter unlocked. This one step, i.e. down shifting manually on up hills will greatly reduce the tranny temperature verses letting the torque converter slip.

robsjeep

Where possible, replace the quick connections at tranny and radiator side tank. For me I found a flare placed on the end of tube, with a bit of filing to remove burrs, well the flare acts like a barb, then use quality hose clamps for the hose.
No more delicate plastic tiny parts at a hose connection. Quick connects are a complicated extra failure point. get rid of them, I hate them, frickin hate them!

at anyrate you must have some sort of flare or barb on the tube for securing the hose. do not attempt a hose install without a flare or barb.

do not forget to add an inline tranny filter with your new cooler!

good luck

00t444e

An inline transmission filter creates more problems than it solves.

Spencer_P

Like?

00t444e

Your adding a restriction there, along with a couple places for it too leak, and you will have to remember to change it. There is no real benefit to doing that either, the AW4 works just fine with the factory filtering setup.

robsjeep

A proper filter wont restrict flow, and will have a bypass, and Mine dont leak. The benefit is better filtering than the stock screen. as for remembering to change it, i hear fish is good brain food.

00t444e

How is that a benefit? I have never seen one fail because the stock filtering system wasn't adequate. They will go 300K or more as long as you don't overheat it, keep it full of fluid and don't get water contamination.

robsjeep

Better filtering will do a better job at removing dirt. that is a benefit. The magnafine filter has a finer filter than the stock screen. My concern is dirt being circulated in the tranny. Seeing as my truck lives in a dirty environment, it is logical to think dirt can get into the tranny. The stock screen is not good enough for my application for filtering.
I even put a filter on my steering fluid system.
No leaks, no flow problems. These filters have a bypass, so fluid flow loss will not bean issue even if clogged.

00t444e

It's your money to waste so do what you wan't with it, if those systems needed extra filtration they would have came that way from the factory.