Transmission cooler line threads broke off
#1
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Transmission cooler line threads broke off
So I'm in a bit of a bad situation. I removed the transmission cooler line (one closest to the front of the vehicle) so I could drop my transmission pan to replace the leaking RTV gasket. I did that (sucked but I got it done), reinstalled the pan, reinserted all the bolts, and then I started to twist the cooler line back in. Only issue is that it broke off as I was tightening it down. I wasn't even torquing it - just twisting it on there with a wrench, heard a pop, and was hit in the face with a piece of the housing. Not entirely sure if this can be fixed so it might be the end of the road for the Jeep. I added some pics but they aren't the best. Hopefully it's good enough to help you guys get a feel for what the issue is.
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
Unscrewing the adapter was easier than squeezing the plastic tabs and removing the line? I don't recall having to remove the line to drop the pan either. Anyway, it's been a while, but I recall a similar post where the guy still had a few threads left and used JB weld. Probably the easiest solution. Just need to clean it really well first.
#5
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Unscrewing the adapter was easier than squeezing the plastic tabs and removing the line? I don't recall having to remove the line to drop the pan either. Anyway, it's been a while, but I recall a similar post where the guy still had a few threads left and used JB weld. Probably the easiest solution. Just need to clean it really well first.
So you are suggesting I try to just JB weld it into there and hope it stays? If you could find that thread, that would be great. I'll do some hunting and see if I can find it tomorrow.
#6
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The good news is, although there is some high pressure inside the transmission, those lines are pretty low pressure. A simple rubber hose and clamp is plenty to hold it. I have patched a few transmission lines that way.
That means the JB Weld just might do the job. Like the man said, clean it really well. Use brake cleaner.
If it doesn't work, you need a new transmission.
That means the JB Weld just might do the job. Like the man said, clean it really well. Use brake cleaner.
If it doesn't work, you need a new transmission.
#7
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Looks like that will be my project for this week. I'll update you guys once I do it. If it doesn't work, is replacing the transmission something I can do myself? Seems like quite the task and I think I would end up replacing the transfer case as well since it has chain slap.
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#8
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Yes, you can do the trans yourself, though it's easier with a buddy. You'll need a floor jack, or you can get fancy and get a transmission jack. They can be rented cheaply.
If you have to go that way, watch out for the two bolts at the top of the bell housing. Remove, or at least, loosen, those first. Otherwise, you'll be hating life.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/eng...4/#post3605212
If you have to go that way, watch out for the two bolts at the top of the bell housing. Remove, or at least, loosen, those first. Otherwise, you'll be hating life.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/eng...4/#post3605212
#9
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I found a dude about 45 minutes away from me that's selling a transmission for $100 out of a 2000 XJ, which I thought was a good price. I've been reading through some of the writeups around here and I think I could tackle this with a buddy. Another question I have is transfer case compatibility. I've gotta 242 in mine but slaps like nuts and it's only getting worse. I'd ideally like to get another 242 (mainly for the full-time feature I can use on patchy winter roads). Would a 242 from another 97+ XJ work or would other years work too?
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
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Honestly, I'D try the JB-Weld. As mentioned, the pressure is pretty low. The front port is the output to the trans cooler, and the rear is the return which just drains into the pain. I'd suggest sanding or wire brushing down to clean metal for about 1/2" around the bung and build up a good size cone of epoxy. Use tape of something to contain the epoxy while it cures.
#12
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I applied the JB Weld yesterday. I blasted it with brake cleaner and used a Scotch-Brite pad to try to scuff up some of the surrounding area so the JB Weld had something to grab on to. I think the odds of this actually working are pretty low, but as you guys said, it's worth a shot. I'll probably let it cure for a few days before I fill it back up with transmission fluid just to be sure it's 100% done.
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#13
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Let us know how it works out. I like your plan of waiting a few days.
While you are waiting, take a look to see if there was anything that was putting unusual stress on that line. Seems very weird for it to break like that. Vibration over a time can do a lot of impressive things, but there really shouldn't be much stress on that point. That part is just bugging me.
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While you are waiting, take a look to see if there was anything that was putting unusual stress on that line. Seems very weird for it to break like that. Vibration over a time can do a lot of impressive things, but there really shouldn't be much stress on that point. That part is just bugging me.
When I first got my '00 it needed a radiator. Not really knowing the condition of the Jeep yet I didn't replace to much but did not want to go back in again to replace things.
So taking a chance I also did the hoses, thermostat, and because the rubber part of my lower tranny line had developed a notch in it from rubbing on the steering box decided
to replace that too. It was not leaking though. I drew the line at the water pump. Which I ended up doing about 6 years later. LOL.
So I also bought the part that screws into the tranny with the white clip that the OP did.
Well I put a wrench to it to get it off and it did not want to budge. In park all I succeed in doing was rolling the Jeep back as far as being in park would allow.
Gave up on that real quick and just shoved the line in there. Fearful that I would just snap that off.
So I am not surprised when these threads about this come up from time to time.
#15
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I'm not entirely sure why threads broke off like that. There's nothing that's rubbing against the line and the lines themselves don't appear to be bent oddly or have any weird kinks in them from what I can tell.
What makes this even stranger is that I was able to unscrew the line with no issues. I was able to slide my wrench on there, pop it lose, and unscrew it fairly easily. I didn't feel any weird resistance when screwing it back on with my hand, but as soon as I put my wrench on there and tightened it down just a tad, it broke into pieces. I inspected chunks that fell off and it wasn't cross-threaded. It makes me wonder if it had been compromised in some way beforehand and was just barely together.
I guess this is what I get for doing preventative maintenance!
What makes this even stranger is that I was able to unscrew the line with no issues. I was able to slide my wrench on there, pop it lose, and unscrew it fairly easily. I didn't feel any weird resistance when screwing it back on with my hand, but as soon as I put my wrench on there and tightened it down just a tad, it broke into pieces. I inspected chunks that fell off and it wasn't cross-threaded. It makes me wonder if it had been compromised in some way beforehand and was just barely together.
I guess this is what I get for doing preventative maintenance!