Jbh97009

I will throw out there, fwiw, every transmission I've had 'flushed' ended up needing rebuilt very soon after the 'flushing'.... Most auto guys will tell you to avoid it because it usually stirs up debris and causes more problems.

Bustedback

I used factory parts. The California tax payers purchased them.

cruiser54

They can afford it. Sorta.

Bustedback

If they only knew what they're paying for.

Ye Ol' Cherokee

Leave the solenoid as is... save the money for all the transmission fluid you will be buying!!

My jeep with 150k hasnt had the trans fluid changed for well over 100k miles, and was BLACK and STUNK.

I bought 2 "12" pack cases of Peak Dex/Merc III off of amazon for dirt cheap, drained the pan, put the same amount back in, and everytime i hit 100 miles, i would do it again. By the time i hit 20 quarts, it was red as a cherry and clean as a babys butt. I then went on to adjust the Throttle valve cable, and now i have a transmission which feels brand new

I decided to do all of this thanks to the help of all these helpful guys on this site. Just do that!

I havent changed out the filter

cruiser54

Yep. Thank you sir for shedding some much needed light, logic, and first hand experience to this thread. Not to mention the interweb "kick in the ***" to drive a point home!!!

zeecherokeeman

what about manual trans?do you just drain n fill

Bustedback

Seriously?

DFlintstone

Yes. The manual is a very different cridder. It takes gear oil, (not the Dexron). I guess you need something special if you have brass syncros...make sure you have the right stuff specified for your unit.

And agreed with the above. Lot's I have read suggests that gently desolving crud in the AW4 is better than a flush. Just change it more often if you want it cleaner.

Radi

Flushes are sometimes the kiss of death, often because people do them when the trans is 'acting up'....already exhibiting problems. The flush gets blamed for the inevitable. Not that a forced flush is a good idea, it isn't.
Reverse flushes are worse. Who thought it would be beneficial to force dirty fluid backwards through the valve body? If it wasn't clogged it will be.
Some shops "flush" using the cooler lines, basically an OK idea.... but use recycled (or used!) fluid and never get it all back out. That isn't good either. I wouldn't do any of those things.
A simple, progressive series of drain and refills OTOH is effective and entirely harmless.

John2001XJ

I'm looking to change out the remaining fluids in mine since I have no idea if it's ever been done - I'm guessing this is pretty much the same instructions for a 2001 as well?

cruiser54

Samo, samo. Is your trans fluid that dirty though?

Ye Ol' Cherokee

All in a days work... Lol

Ye Ol' Cherokee

Basically. Just make sure its dexron/mercon III (3)!!! NOT atf+4, gasoline, or chocolate milk like some might say

Also, you may not need to use as much fluid as i did, just do drain and fill.till your fluid stays red and clean.

Just make sure you put the same amount back in, that you take out

BlueRidgeMark

Yes, it depends what you mean by "flush". If you are just replacing fluid, it's a good thing. If you are forcing things with some external pump mechanism, you are risking the proverbial "stir up junk and clog passages".


I just brought my slipping-and-undriveable-when-hot '97 back to life with a flush. Cut the cooling line, poured in fresh fluid while the engine idled, pumping the bad fluid out and into a pan. Did that until I had clear, clean fluid coming out.

About 3,000 miles now, including daily commutes (50+ miles one way) at speeds of 70 and stop-n-slow traffic, and a day of towing a loaded trailer over some slippery dirt roads in 4WD at slow speed, and nary a slip.

Now if it had only fixed that blasted misfire and rebuilt my Chevy truck transmission at the same time, we could really call it a miracle cure!