Seeking opinions on trans flush and fill ($124.00 at Jiffy lube) or pull the pan and change the filter topping up the fluid?

 

1. Dont ever mention the name J$$$Y L@@e on this Forum!!!
2. Pull the pan and change the filter yourself.
3. One month later, with the truck on a level surface, drain the pan, until it stops dripping. Add 3 fresh quarts......
4. Drive 30K and repeat. Your trans should outlive the rest of the truck.


The reason I say add 3 quarts, is I did mine last night. After draining the pan, I measured the fluid, and it was just a tad less than 3 quarts.

 

Referencing point # 1: 'Nuff said. Just figured they're cheaper than the dealer.

Referencing the other points: I can buy alot of trans fluid for the extra money.

Thanks for the advice!

 

You should look up "Jiffy Lube Scam" on youtube.

 

Still off topic........but a YJ came into my shop and had a diff service done at Jiffy Lube, needless to say, they didn't put the rubber fill plug back in. His ring and pinion were both missing chunks from the teeth. It ended up costing them I think right at $1300.
As far as a tranny flush, if it's not been done in a long while, pull the pan, change the filter, top it off with fresh fluid and run, repeat a few months later.

 

I had the same question. So there's no benefit to a professional trans flush? I would not go to Jiffy Lube either, but there is a reputable trans shop down the street from me and my ATF looks dirty so I was thinking of having it done.

 

I would recommend having a Reputable shop do a transmission pan removal, inspection of internals, filter change, and complete flush with Dex/Merc III and BG auto tranny cleaner.

 

He speaks 100% the truth!

 

Having worked at that dreadful place for almost 3 years (I had to get through college somehow) don't ever go there for anything except maybe getting your tire pressure checked, and if you do make sure that they put your valve stem caps back on. Yes there are a few honest people that work there but FEW is the key word. I got hounded everyday that I sold services to people to get my sales up at any means necessary besides actually comparing fluids.

 

All the Jeep dealers in may area get $180.00 to do the flush. It is appealing to get all the old transmission fluid out and fresh back in.

I know guys running synthetic motor oil that drop the filter and add a quart every 5,000 miles. They seem to be doing just fine with the technique, however the pan drain and fresh filter/oil change always makes me feel better about the general engine health.

Granted these are apples and oranges. Still up in the air!

 

I would just drain the pan and change the fluid a couple of times if I were you. When I changed my S1 solenoid, I dropped the pan and recall it took between 4 and 5 quarts. The remainder would have been in the torque converter, so the remaining fluid is pretty well diluted with the fresh stuff.

I've had my '96 since new, and the fluid has been changed at least 5 times in 156K miles. When I dropped the pan, it was nice and clean.

If you're really paranoid about this, by all means, go ahead and drop the $180 for the dealer to do the flush. For that same amount you could drain and refill at least 9 times. If you did the drain/refill 3 times and it cost $60, you would have the remaining $120 to put towards your new radiator, a trailer hitch, new shocks....

 

Now see I really like the logic of the savings! But being Irish, related to Murphy, having screwed myself numerous times by attempting the easy (cheap) way out I've decided that I'm at least a little neurotic as well. The transmission is working well as it is, although the lock on the TC doesn't always hook up exactly when it should. I'm thinking fresh fluid will resolve that issue.

It is settled then. I'll drain the pan and refill with fresh fluid. I'll do this at every oil change until it resembles totally fresh fluid. At that point and next oil change I'll drop the pan, replace the filter and still be money ahead.

I am still accepting opinions however.

 

I have a bit of Irish blood myself. AAmco quoted me $502 to replace the S1 solenoid (all of them, acutally, but I only requested S1) change fluid, and filter. I thought that a bit high....

Local trans guy said 1-1/2 hours labor at $70 plus parts and he would get the solenoid directly from Jeep.

I got the solenoid from Jeep and changed it myself. It WAS a PITA doing this in the driveway, but I didn't feel like I had been taken, and didn't have to listen to BS stories about this bolt broke, this needs replaced, etc.

Your TC issue could be related to the brake switch. It might also be related to the VSS, TPS, or the S3 could have a problem. I'm assuming that you have adjusted the kickdown cable.

 

It is during the first drive of the day and at the first opportunity on the highway when it sometimes doesn't lock when it should. If I let off the gas and bring to speed again it normally locks. So I figure since I don't really know if there is a problem other than the original 13 year old fluid in the tranny I choose that as a starting point.

Great news on the DIY transmission work. Are the solenoids expensive then? So for $502.00 the Aamco guy is just dropping the pan, doing the solenoids and topping up the fluid??? Seems a bit outrageous doesn't it?

 

Solenoids from Jeep, Napa, or Autozone are very expensive. There are transmission supply places on the 'net that have the set of 3 for less than one OEM. I was warned to stay away from the cheap solenoids.

Check the resistance of your solenoids cold and hot and see if there is any difference. S3 is the lockup solenoid.

There are quite a few bolts in the trans pan, and no gasket. The exhaust is in the way, and the dipstick tube may not seperate....but it can be unbolted from the front of the bell housing so it doesn't need to be pulled apart. The pan/trans uses RTV instead of a gasket, so you must get the pan and trans surfaces clean to get it sealed back up. For a business with a lift that does it all the time, it should be pretty quick and easy.

My exhaust was rattling at idle and it seemed to be inside the muffler. I called around to see what it would cost for a performance muffler and tailpipe installed, and was quoted $350-$400. I'm doing it myself. The muffler and tail pipe are off, the new muffler is in the Jeep and the tailpipe will be here tomorrow morning. I bought the stuff locally, so I'm at $160 for Magnaflow SS muffler and new tailpipe, clamps and hangers.