Tdonofrio18

So for a little background:

I was driving her when I noticed the check gauge light come on, my voltage was up at max so around 19. I immediately pulled over and turned her off. After a second I decided to start her up again and drove around and everything seemed fine. Then my voltage gauge went all the way up to max again and then this caused the check engine light to come, on which was later read to be the transmission input speed sensor. I was able to remedy the voltage fluctuations by removing and reattaching my battery cables. After I did that the check engine light went out for 15 mins then came back on. I am still running stock battery/ power cables and thought that maybe there’s something to that. Also worthy to note that the alternator is fairly new around 8 months old. This did happen once before with the speed sensor but I replaced the throttle position sensor and the problem stopped (until now lol) Any help would be very appreciated! Thank you!

Jim Malcolm

Any time that "moving the battery cables" fixes the problem, it's time to replace the cables. The corrode under the insulation where you can't see it and eventually it will corrode to the point that contact is not longer sufficient to start your vehicle. People will twist the battery terminals and it will fix the problem, but really you're just moving the cable enough to get enough conductivity for it to work again.

Tinned-copper battery cable is the best for this application. The tin plating on the individual strands is vastly more corrosion resistant than bare copper wire and it required for boats. There's little benefit in over-sizing these cables. The ground cable to the engine block is suspect given the description of your issue so make sure you replace that, and clean up the block well where it mounts.

Make sure the ground strap from the engine to the firewall is up-to-par...

Tdonofrio18

I bought a big 7 wiring kit and will update when the little project is done. Thanks again!!