Transmission kick down takes a lot of throttle
12-21-2013, 01:41 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 High Output
Transmission kick down takes a lot of throttle
Hey everyone.. The 96 is finally back on the road after being parked for two years. I've resolved some issues with it but need some guidance on the trans issue.
So now, when driving it, the trans shifts to od at 45 under most conditions, but it takes a ton of throttle to get it to up shift out of od.
Does that make sense? Granted I haven't driven it for a long time but I don't remember it being such a problem before it was parked. I seriously have to go to at least 50% throttle to get it to shift back out
Trans is full and the fluid looks and smells fine.
So now, when driving it, the trans shifts to od at 45 under most conditions, but it takes a ton of throttle to get it to up shift out of od.
Does that make sense? Granted I haven't driven it for a long time but I don't remember it being such a problem before it was parked. I seriously have to go to at least 50% throttle to get it to shift back out
Trans is full and the fluid looks and smells fine.
12-21-2013, 03:08 PM
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Year: 1999
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You may want to start a transmission fluid change process.
Drain the trans pan via the drain plug into a container that you can determine the quantity removed and replenish that about through the trans dipstick tube, using Dexron III/Mecon (DEX/MERC). Drive the Jeep for a few miles, then repeat the process. It will take four or five drain/refills to get the fluid changed over, but you can extend the drain/refill to driving it for several hundred miles if you want.
Look for changing 2.5 to 3.5 quarts of fluid at each change.
The objective is to change/verify that the transmission/torque converter is serviced with the ATF the manufacturer calls for.
This may, or may not, help with your problem.
If not, you may want to consider that the lock-up solenoid is getting/is lazy, or the torque converter is doing the same thing.
Depressing the brake pedal removes power from the TCM and should dump the OD lock-up.
Drain the trans pan via the drain plug into a container that you can determine the quantity removed and replenish that about through the trans dipstick tube, using Dexron III/Mecon (DEX/MERC). Drive the Jeep for a few miles, then repeat the process. It will take four or five drain/refills to get the fluid changed over, but you can extend the drain/refill to driving it for several hundred miles if you want.
Look for changing 2.5 to 3.5 quarts of fluid at each change.
The objective is to change/verify that the transmission/torque converter is serviced with the ATF the manufacturer calls for.
This may, or may not, help with your problem.
If not, you may want to consider that the lock-up solenoid is getting/is lazy, or the torque converter is doing the same thing.
Depressing the brake pedal removes power from the TCM and should dump the OD lock-up.
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12-21-2013, 03:34 PM
#8
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Year: 1996
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Ok I'll start with that this week. I just left it alone while I was going through the other fluids since I've read several times that it's ok to run the fluid if it doesn't stink or look discolored.
I've changed every other fluid and bought too much dex merc for the xfer case anyway.
I'll update when done
I've changed every other fluid and bought too much dex merc for the xfer case anyway.
I'll update when done
12-21-2013, 04:06 PM
#9
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Year: 1999
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If you want to accelerate the fluid change you can remove the transmission cooler lines at the cooler line connector fittings at the right side of the trans and let it drain from there as well. When I did mine, I got a total of 6 quarts of fluid out of the trans. Pic shows location of the connectors.
Pinch the white lock tabs between your fingers while pulling back on the cooler lines. If they've been in there for awhile you may want to give the lock tabs a squirt of penetrating oil before trying to release them.
I replaced my connectors with Dorman connectors from O'reilly auto parts. See pic. These are quality parts and do recommend them. If you keep your original connectors, replacement Dorman plastic lock tabs are availavailble from the auto parts stores.
I do recommend driving the Jeep between drain/refill inorder to circulate the fluid through the torque converter. Some folks say to just shift the trans through the gears and drain/refill again. I call BS on this for the above reason.
Connectors location (right side of trans):
New Dorman connectors:
Pinch the white lock tabs between your fingers while pulling back on the cooler lines. If they've been in there for awhile you may want to give the lock tabs a squirt of penetrating oil before trying to release them.
I replaced my connectors with Dorman connectors from O'reilly auto parts. See pic. These are quality parts and do recommend them. If you keep your original connectors, replacement Dorman plastic lock tabs are availavailble from the auto parts stores.
I do recommend driving the Jeep between drain/refill inorder to circulate the fluid through the torque converter. Some folks say to just shift the trans through the gears and drain/refill again. I call BS on this for the above reason.
Connectors location (right side of trans):
New Dorman connectors:
12-21-2013, 04:11 PM
#10
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Year: 1996
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You may want to start a transmission fluid change process.
Drain the trans pan via the drain plug into a container that you can determine the quantity removed and replenish that about through the trans dipstick tube, using Dexron III/Mecon (DEX/MERC). Drive the Jeep for a few miles, then repeat the process. It will take four or five drain/refills to get the fluid changed over, but you can extend the drain/refill to driving it for several hundred miles if you want.
Look for changing 2.5 to 3.5 quarts of fluid at each change.
The objective is to change/verify that the transmission/torque converter is serviced with the ATF the manufacturer calls for.
This may, or may not, help with your problem.
If not, you may want to consider that the lock-up solenoid is getting/is lazy, or the torque converter is doing the same thing.
Depressing the brake pedal removes power from the TCM and should dump the OD lock-up.
Drain the trans pan via the drain plug into a container that you can determine the quantity removed and replenish that about through the trans dipstick tube, using Dexron III/Mecon (DEX/MERC). Drive the Jeep for a few miles, then repeat the process. It will take four or five drain/refills to get the fluid changed over, but you can extend the drain/refill to driving it for several hundred miles if you want.
Look for changing 2.5 to 3.5 quarts of fluid at each change.
The objective is to change/verify that the transmission/torque converter is serviced with the ATF the manufacturer calls for.
This may, or may not, help with your problem.
If not, you may want to consider that the lock-up solenoid is getting/is lazy, or the torque converter is doing the same thing.
Depressing the brake pedal removes power from the TCM and should dump the OD lock-up.
CCKen,
Is it not possible to use the pump out method of fluid changes with the aw4? What I mean by this is:
In high school, our auto shop teacher taught us to disconnect the line running to the transmission cooler and attach a small hose to it.. then you drain and refill the pan with fresh fluid through the dip stick hole.
Put a clear one or two quart container on the floor where you can see it from the car and start the engine. The pump will fill the container on the ground, when it's close shut off the car. Replace whatever fluid you drained out (however much your floor container holds) with new fluid. Repeat until the fluid going into the floor container appears new.
I've done this on a lot of cars since then and it works flawlessly so long as the fluid lines are easily accessible.
12-21-2013, 04:22 PM
#11
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Year: 1999
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CCKen,
Is it not possible to use the pump out method of fluid changes with the aw4? What I mean by this is:
In high school, our auto shop teacher taught us to disconnect the line running to the transmission cooler and attach a small hose to it.. then you drain and refill the pan with fresh fluid through the dip stick hole.
Put a clear one or two quart container on the floor where you can see it from the car and start the engine. The pump will fill the container on the ground, when it's close shut off the car. Replace whatever fluid you drained out (however much your floor container holds) with new fluid. Repeat until the fluid going into the floor container appears new.
I've done this on a lot of cars since then and it works flawlessly so long as the fluid lines are easily accessible.
Is it not possible to use the pump out method of fluid changes with the aw4? What I mean by this is:
In high school, our auto shop teacher taught us to disconnect the line running to the transmission cooler and attach a small hose to it.. then you drain and refill the pan with fresh fluid through the dip stick hole.
Put a clear one or two quart container on the floor where you can see it from the car and start the engine. The pump will fill the container on the ground, when it's close shut off the car. Replace whatever fluid you drained out (however much your floor container holds) with new fluid. Repeat until the fluid going into the floor container appears new.
I've done this on a lot of cars since then and it works flawlessly so long as the fluid lines are easily accessible.
Others have said they've used this method but I don't agree with it.
12-21-2013, 05:42 PM
#12
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Change the fluid with Dex/Merc. Adjust the tV cable per the link below.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
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