So, I decided to just tighten up my transmission pans bolts, so that I could check the operation of the solenoids before I drop the pan to install a new Wix filter and gasket. I felt it slip slightly once or twice, or so I thought ? Anyways, I was just wanting to do it all at once. So, I scrounged up the torque specs, 10ft lbs. Seemed reasonable ? So, I'm torquing away, get to the last bolt, and, "SNAP !!!" I'm like,,, you gotta be friggin' ******** me ??? Yeah, how do you snap a bolt off @10 ft lbs !!! The whole while, I was more concerned with stripping a bolt hole in the case !!! I'm thinking, it's probably just aluminum ??? After that little incident, I didn't even bother looking up the torque specs on my differential covers. I just tightened them till it felt right to me ! Wished I'd done that on the tranny pan ! Now I'm going to have to get that broken bolt out. I bought two different styles of old school Hansen, screw extractors. I guess I'll pick up a new set of grade 5 bolts for my pan now. The funny thing about it, it wasn't even tight yet ?

 

Pans bolts are usually in in/lbs not ft/lbs

But honestly 1/4 in drive and hand tight snug is all you need.

 

I knew that. It was in inch lbs. I converted it to ft lbs by dividing it by 5,,, came to 12ft lbs. So, I thought I'd play it safe and only go with 10ft lbs. ?!?!? And the last one broke !!!

 

​​​​​​Just hand tight.

 

12"= 1 ft.
As an example 10 ft. lbs = 120 inch pounds.
Best to use an inch pound torque wrench or just hand tighten til snug.

 

??? When I looked it up it said somewhere between 47- 74in lbs. ??? I took the middle rout, around 60in lbs, then I use a formula that divides in lbs by 5 to convert to ft lbs . Comes to 12ft lbs. To be even safer, I went with 10ft lbs. Another site had a big list of torque specs for Cherokees. It said 120in lbs. I nailed it ! Regardless , bolt shouldn't have broke. I have an in lb torque wrench, and I also have a bad hip. Easier to convert than crawl out !

 

The FSM for my 97 calls for 53-70 inch/lbs.

The threads may have gotten hung up on some dirt, the bolt got stuck, and just that little bit of force snapped it. If youre careful, you can try drilling the bolt with a left handed bit to back the bolt out. Take another bolt out to see how deep the hole needs to be. Center the bit as best you can. Start slow. You could probably leave the pan on for that. If the drill slips, itll hit the pan.

 

60 in lbs / 12 = 5 ft. lbs.
120 in/lbs. seems excessive.
The fastener could have been over torqued once and then failed on re-installation or it bottomed out in a blind hole.

 

I bought two different sets of easy outs. The older Hansen tool Co. I thought that I'd grind the bolt flat with a Dremel. Then get a good hit on it with a center punch. Drill it out for the extractor. I just like everything done as it was originally. And you're absolutely correct about the conversion units, don't know why I typed in 5 ? Senior moment,,,

 

wrist tight....................

 

 

Got it ! Just a torque nut, always have been ? Gonna just use 1/4" drive next time too !!! Everything Cruiser says,,, the text should come up red,,, like the big mans words are in the good book !!!

 

How dirty was your screen?

 

 

Real good reason for that.

That SCREEN, not a filter was only meant to be changed at trans overhaul. It was there to keep any pieces from a huge trans failure from fouling the valve body.

The point I'm trying to make is this:

To do a trans service on an AW4, you need do nothing more that drain the fluid, have a gallon of Dex/Merc ATF for refill, and a new sealing ring for the drain plug.
The pan only needs to be removed if the solenoids need attention or if the trans pan gasket is leaking.

Every 30,000 miles for normal driving. Every 15,000 miles for taxi, postal delivery or the like, or a lot of towing.