holycaveman

Sounds like it's time to freshen up the transmission. 9 times out of 10 it's the transmisson. I have spent more hours trying to avoid the inevitable than you would care to know. Sometimes it's repairable through the valve body and electrics. But normally if the tranny has never been rebuilt then I just rebuild them.

However I do hope I am wrong for your sake.

Guntar13

Me too! Thanks for the well wishes!!

CCKen

I don't suggest using voodoo juice in a transmission. If it won't run on its own with the spec ATF then it's time to fix it.

CCKen

"and put in new to me solenoids (all of them). these also came from a 98 that was shifting great"

I don't know man. Sounds kind of iffy.

To go to all the trouble to drop the pan to change solenoids I would think that new solenoids would be in order.

There's electrical measurements of the TCM input circuits you can take from the TCM connector if you have a digital Volt/Ohmmeter.

Also, there's a simple check you can do to see if the trans oil pump is working properly and if the TC is working properly.

Guntar13

Which would those be? Do you have any write ups?

Guntar13

If you mean holding steady at 50-55 and tapping the brake pedal then I do know that one. That's how I determined the converter was not locking up

CCKen

This is a check to see if the TC is working properly and to see if the trans oil pump is working.

Not a conclusive test of either but it gives you an idea of what's happening.

If the fluid level does not drop to below the add line, but stays somewhere midway on the dipstick, or near the top, there's a possibility there's a defect in the TC or the oil pump.



The electrical checks will have to wait until tomorrow.

Guntar13

Another twist in the story!

I hopped in it after it had sat for a while, had about a 20 minute drive. Plenty of time for it to heat up fully. Drove perfect the whole way, tcc locked up just the way it should, I could manually make it unlock and it would kick right back in. Shut it down for about 30-45 minutes then headed back home, immediately noticed that the converter wouldn't lock up like it should. Drove the 20 minutes back and wouldn't lock up at all. Then the MIL lamp shone its ugly head again...

Radi

I'm waiting to see what Ken comes up with for an electrical check, he knows more of those handy tips than I do. Sure smells to me like your new-to-you-solenoid has a heat sensitivity issue. I doubt it's a hard internal part issue since it works just fine when it wants to. That sort of intermittent is usually electrical.

Guntar13

I was thinking a little along those lines but that doesn't explain how it was perfectly fine for 20 minutes or so of driving and then you **** it down and get back in and it's all screwed again. This morning got in and didn't have a far drive but enough that I could get it going 55, fluid still cold and it would not lock…

Guntar13

Another new development!

Got to poking around and figured out the PO took the main ground from the battery and put it directly to the alternator. Grounded it too the small 10mm lugs on the alternator itself. In my opinion this is not a good chassis ground. Made all new 2 gauge grounds (wire I had laying around). Grounded direct to the coil bracket from battery, battery to inner fender, head to firewall. This is back to "stock" grounding points and have super thick wiring. Didn't get a chance to drive it though having a buddy drive it on his commute today. Btw: if anyone is looking found the solenoids on eBay for 60 shipped brand new. Used these same ones in our 98 two years ago and still going strong!

Turbocube

The fact that it worked intermittently would personally send me looking for more loose wiring connectors or any vacuum lines got cracked or wires melted and such. I don't know much about transmissions but I'll never forget the night I glared at my engine for 3 hours with the completely severed fuel pressure regulator vacuum line right in front of my face.

cruiser54

How about this?

Look at post 10 in my Tips link below.

IJM

Check out this thread for info about doing the electrical checks of the solenoid circuits. Ken helped me out a ton when I was having shifting problems. I ended up replacing all three solenoids with new ones and it's been like butter ever since. By the way, my shifting problems were intermittent at times as well.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/doe...-legit-195669/

Guntar13

had a buddy drive it to his work today (i have a company vehicle) he said the whole way to work it was perfect. he just called a minute ago and said he's on his way home and it won't lock up at all. the sporadicniss of this thing is driving me nuts. I did pull that connector and it looked perfectly fine. Looks like I'm moving on to testing again! So should the reading still be 11-15 ohms at the connector? or what is the spread since it has wiring attached to it now? thanks for the link!