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Trying to diagnose a squeal from under XJ

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Old 05-20-2018, 02:42 PM
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
Default Trying to diagnose a squeal from under XJ

Strange squeal that I am having trouble pinning down. If I get up to speed and run above 57mph for several miles I begin to hear a squeal, sounds a lot like a cicada. It doesn't happen on short trips or if I stay below 55mph. It isn't constant, it will come and go as I drive if I stay above about 57mph. If I get up to 65mph on the four lane it will get much worse.


If I let of the accelerator when it is doing it, it stops immediately, if it is engine braking, just coasting doesn't change it much until the speed drops, but engine braking stops it immediately even when still at speeds above 57mph.



XJ is completely stock with D30 up front and D35 in rear. With the behavior of it stopping with engine braking I don't think it is in the front, but anywhere from the transmission rearward could be causing it. I am leaning towards U joints or rear pinion bearing but not sure yet. Has anyone else ever had such a problem? Just wondering where to begin, but not wanting to just throw parts at it.
Old 05-20-2018, 02:53 PM
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Heat related bearing failure. Now, the question is, which bearing?

Can you get it to squeal if it's up on jack stands? If so, a mechanic's stethoscope will find it very quickly.
Old 05-20-2018, 03:05 PM
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Did you check the intake manifold bolts and throttle body bolts to see if they are loose ?
Old 05-20-2018, 04:39 PM
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Year: 1985
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Originally Posted by tech
Did you check the intake manifold bolts and throttle body bolts to see if they are loose ?

85 with 2.5L carb so no throttle body. Manifold I can check but it has been on there 30+ years so probably frozen in place.


Also forgot the transmission is the A904 and Tcase is NP207.


Could it also be the seal at the slip joint? I wouldn't imagine power or coast would make a difference on that but another possibility.
Old 10-13-2018, 06:55 PM
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seems like you got a few problems happening there..

for the windows, doors etc...EVEN THOUGH my (DS door) wires tested good with a continuity meter, it wasnt until I jammed piggyback wires into the connectors, things started working

I am assuming the wires are fractured inside, and can pull a few milliamps for the meter, but not run the motor or solenoid, which need amps

even more weirdly, I just used 5amp wire, as it is thin enough to jam in...there is a very suspect looking clear plastic multipin connector in there..I jammed wires in the back to bypass it

I did not replace any wires, just ran a couple of piggybacks, all good for over 2 years...'96 Sport
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