U joints
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
U joints
need to change out the u joints on the rear shaft on my 92 xj. any tricks or precautions i need to know about or is it a normal u joint? thanks in advance.
#2
Senior Member
I don't know of any. Be sure to get a 'greasable' u-joint, or at least one that's drilled out. That way you can grease, or, at least remove the two caps daub some grease in it, squeeze with a c-clamp which will force some grease back through the other trunions (if it's 'drilled).
As for installation Pretty standard. The biggest thing a lot of guys overlook is when they finish, the joint is really tight. You need to equalize the pressure so it's not 'squeezed' too much.
As for installation Pretty standard. The biggest thing a lot of guys overlook is when they finish, the joint is really tight. You need to equalize the pressure so it's not 'squeezed' too much.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 621
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
It was easy enough with a rented ball joint press from O'Reilly. I held the shaft in a vise while using the press. I replaced with greasable Moog branded ones along the drive shaft. They have worked well for over a year now. This is on a 1992 XJ Laredo.
#4
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5,920
Likes: 0
Received 190 Likes
on
165 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Jeepwalker
I don't know of any. Be sure to get a 'greasable' u-joint, or at least one that's drilled out. That way you can grease, or, at least remove the two caps daub some grease in it, squeeze with a c-clamp which will force some grease back through the other trunions (if it's 'drilled).
As for installation Pretty standard. The biggest thing a lot of guys overlook is when they finish, the joint is really tight. You need to equalize the pressure so it's not 'squeezed' too much.
As for installation Pretty standard. The biggest thing a lot of guys overlook is when they finish, the joint is really tight. You need to equalize the pressure so it's not 'squeezed' too much.
#5
Junior Member
#6
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Hunt County Texas
Posts: 1,096
Received 166 Likes
on
140 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
The original non greaseable Spicer joints lasted for a very long time so I've never seen the need to add the greseable kind when replacing them. Why deal with the extra step and mess of greasing them when it's not necessary. They're a 20 min job to replace with the right tool. The time I save not greasing them is probably far greater than that in the time that even non greaseable ones will last.
Trending Topics
#8
CF Veteran
Don't forget to lube the slip yoke when you reinstall so that it can slide easily. Something you should do anytime the rear shaft comes out.
#9
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
Posts: 3,700
Received 236 Likes
on
209 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
If you do have difficulty aligning the driveshaft upon re-install, you can put the parking brake on (and chock the wheels just to be safe) and put the Jeep in N and the output shaft will rotate freely. You could also put the transfer case in N and get the same effect. You have to slide the slip yoke side on first anyway, then rotate the shaft as necessary to join the rearmost joint into the axle yoke.
I like to mark the axle yoke as well to reinstall everything exactly as it came out.
I like to mark the axle yoke as well to reinstall everything exactly as it came out.
#10
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
Posts: 3,700
Received 236 Likes
on
209 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Edit -- The biggest thing on re-install to look out for is the needle bearings staying put while pressing the caps in. Once they are on, the joint should rotate smoothly. Tap the yoke ears lightly with a hammer to settle everything. It will be much tighter than the old joints, but if it's not SMOOTH, then you may have a needle bearing stuck under the end. Many folks like to get an extra u-joint just in case they lose or damage one of the needle bearings. Even if you have no problem, it never hurts to have a spare kicking around. Also it's a lot less frustrating if you don't have to drive to the parts store when you're so close to being done.
I had a shop do u-joints for me last year and the shaft came back with a needle bearing under the cap. Against my gut I put it in and it exploded 500 feet out of my driveway and scared the heck out my 4 year-old that wanted to go on the test drive with me. Sheared the strap bolts clean off... Fortunately it didn't damage anything else on the Jeep, but man was I ticked off.
Last edited by PatHenry; 01-29-2019 at 05:37 PM.
#12
Senior Member
Personally I avoid greasable joints because they are weaker than solid u joints. I've not had an issue breaking a u joint in the driveshaft, but I have broken a few axleshaft u joints.
I personally prefer hammering u-joints out/in vs a ball-joint press. I've done it both ways. It's personal preference but I feel I can control the alignment better tapping in with a hammer. Sometimes with a u-joint/ball joint press, they can bind. Again, personal preference.
Last edited by Jeepwalker; 01-29-2019 at 10:02 PM.
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
Posts: 3,700
Received 236 Likes
on
209 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
The hardest part whenever I've done u-joints is getting the old rusty b@stards out - this is where having a press is helpful. If you can get the old ones out with nothing but a BFH - hey that's awesome - but I've always had at least 1 cap that (in one case soaking for weeks in PB Blaster) simply wouldn't budge without a press. I suspect it's the ungodly amount of salt they dump onto the roads every time it snows, rains in the winter or snow melts onto the road.
Of course, I'm not wheeling, so the u-joints have always been pretty old and/or original. They do say they are a bit easier the more times they've been changed.
Of course, I'm not wheeling, so the u-joints have always been pretty old and/or original. They do say they are a bit easier the more times they've been changed.
#15
CF Veteran
I have a press, but usually just use the hammer as well. For getting stuck joints out, I keep an old u-joint body on hand. It is excellent for punching out an old rusty u-joint. It transmits energy from the BFH very well.