Oh, and since nobody mentioned it yet, get the front end aligned. An incorrect toe in/out setting can play hell with both tire life and mileage. Caster and camber aren't as important mileage wise but they make your jeep go strait and keep your tires wearing evenly.

 

Just Curious, but I didnt think Caster and Camber were even adjustable on a solid front axle like the XJ has

 

I'm not sure either, at least in stock form. I know on 4wd chevy's you can adjust the camber at the ball joints by rotating the offset bushing they sit in. Not sure if the XJ has something similar. On a XJ with adjustable control arms you could adjust caster by changing the length of the arms but I don't know if there is an adjustment on the stock suspension. I've only had one for two weeks, but I've been a car/4wd guy forever.

But as far as fuel mileage is concerned toe in/out is the only measurement that has a major effect. Improper camber wears out tires, and caster is for tracking and return to center.

 

Statistically, your mood effects your gas mileage more than any mod. to get the best mileage you're supposed to only drive when you're not stressed or in a hurry. LAY OFF THE GAS. haha.

 

haha, yea I saw a study done by a psychology group were I went to college that proved that its hilarious

 

I took the roof rack off mine and the mileage didn't increase at all.

 

you didnt take it off in the correct sequence, haha just joking

 

Do you do mostly city or highway driving? In the city it probably won't help at all, but if you do a lot of highway speed driving it will help. Don't get me wrong, you not going to get 4 more MPG. It may only get you an extra 5 miles out of a tank, but when you combine that with several other mods for mileage you begin to see results.

 

My mileage has improved over the last four tankfuls from below 15 mpg, to 18-20 mpg. I have changed all fluids ( tranny and transfer, frt and rear diffs, engine oil went to synthetic) Its also a newer engine than before, so maybe some of that is the computer learning the new engine ( are these adaptive).
I also keep a STEADY foot, and try to keep the speed to 60-62 mph--although sometimes, the tailgating semis will cause me to speed up a little.
No drag racing like starts, anticipate upcoming traffic lights and try to adjust your speed to avoid having to use the brakes. Remember that braking simply converts energy to heat which is all wasted.

 

Oh yea, if you've got A/C and you (have to) use it, they say it's more economical to roll down the window below highway speeds and use the A/C at highway speeds with windows closed. Not that it makes a world of difference with the Cherokee's outrageous aerodynamics... :P

 

Tornado!!! LOL just kidding. Seriously... do NOT spend your hard earned money on miraculous fuel saving gadgets, they ain't worth the paper of the box they came out of. Fuel injector/system cleaner might help some in rare cases, even though, brand name fuel has plenty of detergents in it, so, theoretically, those ain't needed either, as long as you purchase your fuel from reputable sources... ahem :P

 

Personal Reccommendation--
When I installed my new (used) engine, I needed/ wanted to install new spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap. I found that ACCEL has a package with all that stuff at a great price. Its a Truck Tune up Kit,( TTK-15 I IIRC), and it cost about $55. You can easily spend that much on plugs and wires, so the cap and rotor are almost "free". Besides, its good quality stuff.

I found it on the Advance Auto Website--their counter people didn't know anything about it, and were eager to see what it was when I picked it up from the local store.

 

Accel is pretty good,but I always had better luck with MSD, one of my engineer co-workers use to work there, and he knows his stuff, so I trust them, on my LT1 thats all I have, minus the spark plug wires, those are accel

 

I am at 1/4 tank but I have traveled about 324 miles on this tank. Mostly highway and some city with a little 4x4 on the beach.

 

i like to run a fuel treatment a few times a month. run the tank low then add 1/2 drive for about 10-15 minutes and fill up and add the rest. clears out the condesation that builds in the tank and breaks up any varnish. for those that think that injector cleaners are garbage take a nice gummy gas varnished something..i like the float bowls from an old carb soak them for an hour or so then look the varnish will start to dissolve. no this wont add 10hp it wont fix bad rings and your not going to do a wheelie...but it will help keep your fuel system free flowing. i will be sure to post pics of my yearly carb rebuild on my 78 cutlass you would be surprised just what builds up in there over a year and i only run 93 octane or higher.