The Ultimate Fuel Economy XJ Thread
#46
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 30
From: Detroit, Michigan
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Uhhh yeah-
All i have to say is SEAFOAM!
Upped my MPG about 3 or 4.
You have no idea how well or poorly your rig was taken care of by the last guy-
It must've cleaned out all the gunk-
If they call me i'll do a commercial for them.
Heck, I'd MARRY them!
All i have to say is SEAFOAM!
Upped my MPG about 3 or 4.
You have no idea how well or poorly your rig was taken care of by the last guy-
It must've cleaned out all the gunk-
If they call me i'll do a commercial for them.
Heck, I'd MARRY them!
#47
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 103
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l I-4
An old and cheap trick for cleaning gunk out of the engine internals is to add 1/2 qt of tranny fluid to your engine oil, shortly before changing it (I do it 1x/year, about 300-400 miles before changing. I drive upwards of 35k miles per year). Won't save a lot of gas, tho.
#48
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 3
From: Austin, Texas
Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
An old and cheap trick for cleaning gunk out of the engine internals is to add 1/2 qt of tranny fluid to your engine oil, shortly before changing it (I do it 1x/year, about 300-400 miles before changing. I drive upwards of 35k miles per year). Won't save a lot of gas, tho.
#49
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 103
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l I-4
Sorry to hear that. Still, I'm not entirely convinced, it was the tranny fluid. I and a lot of my friends do that regularly, with no ill side effects. It's been around for ages, just don't leave it in for an extended period of time.
#50
There are several techniques to max fuel mileage, unfortunately, you'd be driving the thing like a granny. Quality fuel, ignition system in good wroking order, good O2 sensors, non-binding brakes, properly inflated tires, everything lubed are pre-requisites. You could use synthetic engine oil & tranny fluid to minimize friction. I like driving stick, it's better on gas, my '96, however, could use a 6th gear. Further, any performance upgrade, such as CAI, larger throttle body, turbo, S/C and the like, uses more gasoline.
Then there's driving style: Stay at or slightly below speed limit, avoid sudden changes of the go-pedal, try to approach a traffic light without much braking so as to shift down to the highest possible gear without lugging the engine (1500+ rpm), try to park in such a manner that you can take off without having to back out, AND, generally, your fuel consumption is proportional with the distance of your right foot to the floor... I have heard of people getting 45+ mpg (Honda Accord) or 50% over EPA rating by driving like this.
Then there's driving style: Stay at or slightly below speed limit, avoid sudden changes of the go-pedal, try to approach a traffic light without much braking so as to shift down to the highest possible gear without lugging the engine (1500+ rpm), try to park in such a manner that you can take off without having to back out, AND, generally, your fuel consumption is proportional with the distance of your right foot to the floor... I have heard of people getting 45+ mpg (Honda Accord) or 50% over EPA rating by driving like this.
#51
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 3
From: Austin, Texas
Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
well my xj does have 285K, i think that has a bit to do with it also, haha
#52
When I got mine, my better tank was 14 MPG... 3.07 axle, 5 speed, and original tires...full stock with 100 000 miles...
Now I got a 3 inches lift, 235/75R15 cooper 8x15 wheels. BBK valve body, 3 inches exhaust, no cat.
engine oil changed, new plugs, new wires, caps and rotor. new injectors.
did grease all the point springs to wheel bearings...
I got 105 000 miles now, and i did 350 miles for the best, and regulary do 290.
will get rid of the macanical fan, new transfer case and axles oil changed asap, and as many person already told, the driver is the first responsible for a good fuel economy...
Now I got a 3 inches lift, 235/75R15 cooper 8x15 wheels. BBK valve body, 3 inches exhaust, no cat.
engine oil changed, new plugs, new wires, caps and rotor. new injectors.
did grease all the point springs to wheel bearings...
I got 105 000 miles now, and i did 350 miles for the best, and regulary do 290.
will get rid of the macanical fan, new transfer case and axles oil changed asap, and as many person already told, the driver is the first responsible for a good fuel economy...
#53
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 103
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l I-4
the only reason performance upgrades would rob gas mileage is because when you do the upgrade, you like to use it and feel the difference. adding horsepower decreases the stress on the engine to move it. but when you add horsepower and tromp on it, yes it will use gas more
What I am trying to say is that lo-tq, hi-rpm HP is less taxing on an engine than monster tq.
Last edited by SHO_91; 03-19-2010 at 01:15 AM.
#54
What method did you guys use to run the seafoam through the motor, I know there is a few. I'm getting 13mpg at the most currently and that's with a brand new air/fuel filter, 89 octane, proper tire pressure, flowmaster muffler, new plugs and rescently changed motor oil. I would like to do all of the fluids and seafoam when i get the money.
#55
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
im shocked no one has mentioned a programmer for fuel econ. they can add hp but can change shift points for autos. Driver number 1 cause for bad fuel econ. trust me, after my speeding ticket ive gone from 12 to 28 mix of city, highway and 4x4
#56
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,379
Likes: 0
From: Forest, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
sent my hypertech max energy last week. i'm an mpg freak, so i analyze every aspect of it. for $380 didn't even get 1mpg. smoother acceleration though.
#58
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,379
Likes: 0
From: Forest, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
When I got mine, my better tank was 14 MPG... 3.07 axle, 5 speed, and original tires...full stock with 100 000 miles...
Now I got a 3 inches lift, 235/75R15 cooper 8x15 wheels. BBK valve body, 3 inches exhaust, no cat.
engine oil changed, new plugs, new wires, caps and rotor. new injectors.
did grease all the point springs to wheel bearings...
I got 105 000 miles now, and i did 350 miles for the best, and regulary do 290.
will get rid of the macanical fan, new transfer case and axles oil changed asap, and as many person already told, the driver is the first responsible for a good fuel economy...
Now I got a 3 inches lift, 235/75R15 cooper 8x15 wheels. BBK valve body, 3 inches exhaust, no cat.
engine oil changed, new plugs, new wires, caps and rotor. new injectors.
did grease all the point springs to wheel bearings...
I got 105 000 miles now, and i did 350 miles for the best, and regulary do 290.
will get rid of the macanical fan, new transfer case and axles oil changed asap, and as many person already told, the driver is the first responsible for a good fuel economy...
#59
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 103
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l I-4
Absolutely. When it comes down to fuel economy, the stock setup is best, hands down. They know, what they are doing at the factory. But, if you want performance and don't care much about fuel efficiency, then the tried and true upgrades (CAI, S/C, T/C) will do best. And, lose as much sprung weight as possible.
#60
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,379
Likes: 0
From: Forest, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
max energy combines econ. still a piece of junk in my opinion. other people might think different though. i honestly can't complain about my mpg. i get 18 in town and 21-23 highway with 4.5" lift and 31's.