Understanding Axles?
#1
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 254
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From: Co
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Understanding Axles?
So i currently have a Dana 30 front and Dana 35c rear. i don't have the money to do everything at once such as a 6 inch lift, new engine etc. etc. so i was wanting to get some help from you experts haha. I don't know what axle to get or where to get them for preferable cheap. If some one or everyone can tell me what axles to go with where to get them (car wise or shop) how much etc. i plan to go to 37 inch tires if not bigger if that makes a different thank you all very much
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
if you're serious about going 37"+ tires, then you best be saving up for some ford 60's. your d30 and 8.8 swap just won't do it. even 44's would be too weak for 37's if you actually plan on wheeling.
i'd even say get some portal axles if you can find some cheap enough.
i'd even say get some portal axles if you can find some cheap enough.
#3
A few potential sources - although it requires some junkyard crawling...
Axles from under the U-100 (full-size) Bronco are a common swap. That can net you either the 8.8" or 9" Ford corporate rear (the 9" is preferred. The 8.8" has c-clips, and the purchase and installation of a C-clip eliminator kit is highly recommended...) and earlier years have a D44 front with the correct driver's-side drop. Also, check under F100, F150, and some F250 pickups. They are slightly wider than the XJ axles (XJ has 60-1/4" WMS-WMS, while Ford U-100/F-series is around 63-65" WMS-WMS,) but it's workable and gives you a slightly larger "footprint" anyhow. And, it will help with the added width of the 37" tyres.
Most pickup trucks and full-size Ford passenger cars (RWD, obviously) can yield up potentially useful axles. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury RWD can have the 9" rear (up to 1984 or so) or the 8.8" (late 1970's/early 1980's to now.) The 9" is Hell-for-strong, but you do lose some power in driving the thing (it has a larger hypoid offset than most other axles. This gives it great strength, but increases parasitic drag.) How much torque can you put through a 9"? I don't know - I haven't blown one up.
If you want a "bolt-in" rear, you can look for the Chrysler 8-1/4" (1991-up) or the Dana 44 (1984-1988 or so, tow package/heavy duty option) under an XJ. Grab the driveshaft as well, or plan on having one made (pinion length on both of those is rather greater than the D35.) The ChryCo 8-1/4" is also a C-clip axle, but C-clip eliminators are available.
The Chrysler 9-1/4" rear is found under the full-size trucks (D/W/Ram-series,) and is an upgrade. I believe it is also a "bolt-in" shaft axle, which means you don't have to deal with the C-clips. If the front axle has the centre section on the driver's side, you can fabricate mounts to put in a D44 (1/2-ton, some 3/4-ton) or a D60 (3/4-ton Heavy Duty and 1-ton.) The D44 will usually be paired with a C9-1/4" or D60 rear, and the D60 front will usually have a D70 or D80 rear. Some rare 1-ton Dodge will also have a D70 front - which means a D80 rear. A half-ton D44 can also be coupled with a D44 out back.
NB: Nearly any of these swaps will require that you either swap the front axle as well (since you're changing the lug pattern,) or carry two spare tyres (one for front, one for rear.) Which you do is up to you.
Some 4WD Rangers may have D44 or Ford 8.8" rear and D35 front - both of which would be upgrades from your D30/D35 setup now. These are rare.
The FSJ can also be found with the D44/D44 setup, as well as most later J-trucks (some are D60/D44 instead, these are usually the J20 series trucks.)
That's all right off the top of my head, but I'm sure other people can list more donors than that... I'm not working on that section of notes right now.
Axles from under the U-100 (full-size) Bronco are a common swap. That can net you either the 8.8" or 9" Ford corporate rear (the 9" is preferred. The 8.8" has c-clips, and the purchase and installation of a C-clip eliminator kit is highly recommended...) and earlier years have a D44 front with the correct driver's-side drop. Also, check under F100, F150, and some F250 pickups. They are slightly wider than the XJ axles (XJ has 60-1/4" WMS-WMS, while Ford U-100/F-series is around 63-65" WMS-WMS,) but it's workable and gives you a slightly larger "footprint" anyhow. And, it will help with the added width of the 37" tyres.
Most pickup trucks and full-size Ford passenger cars (RWD, obviously) can yield up potentially useful axles. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury RWD can have the 9" rear (up to 1984 or so) or the 8.8" (late 1970's/early 1980's to now.) The 9" is Hell-for-strong, but you do lose some power in driving the thing (it has a larger hypoid offset than most other axles. This gives it great strength, but increases parasitic drag.) How much torque can you put through a 9"? I don't know - I haven't blown one up.
If you want a "bolt-in" rear, you can look for the Chrysler 8-1/4" (1991-up) or the Dana 44 (1984-1988 or so, tow package/heavy duty option) under an XJ. Grab the driveshaft as well, or plan on having one made (pinion length on both of those is rather greater than the D35.) The ChryCo 8-1/4" is also a C-clip axle, but C-clip eliminators are available.
The Chrysler 9-1/4" rear is found under the full-size trucks (D/W/Ram-series,) and is an upgrade. I believe it is also a "bolt-in" shaft axle, which means you don't have to deal with the C-clips. If the front axle has the centre section on the driver's side, you can fabricate mounts to put in a D44 (1/2-ton, some 3/4-ton) or a D60 (3/4-ton Heavy Duty and 1-ton.) The D44 will usually be paired with a C9-1/4" or D60 rear, and the D60 front will usually have a D70 or D80 rear. Some rare 1-ton Dodge will also have a D70 front - which means a D80 rear. A half-ton D44 can also be coupled with a D44 out back.
NB: Nearly any of these swaps will require that you either swap the front axle as well (since you're changing the lug pattern,) or carry two spare tyres (one for front, one for rear.) Which you do is up to you.
Some 4WD Rangers may have D44 or Ford 8.8" rear and D35 front - both of which would be upgrades from your D30/D35 setup now. These are rare.
The FSJ can also be found with the D44/D44 setup, as well as most later J-trucks (some are D60/D44 instead, these are usually the J20 series trucks.)
That's all right off the top of my head, but I'm sure other people can list more donors than that... I'm not working on that section of notes right now.
#4
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 65
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From: dayton tx
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just asked this question not to long ago for 37s or bigger a full width conversion and a long arm lift kit would be recomended they told me dana 60s out of a ford f350 would work but need to be modified they are driver side drop to match the jeep but 35s you can get away with a d44, chrys 8.25, or a ford 8.8 (disc brakes) with changed gears and chromos in the d30 and a long arm lift kit hope I helped you
#5
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 254
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From: Co
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Thank you ever one. Anyone know of anything else the more ideas the better. I like the idea of keeping. Turn radious would a larger stance effect that. Thank you.
#7
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Joined: May 2010
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From: fair oaks, ca
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i cant say enough good about the d44 and 9'' out of my 78 bronco i had 37'' tires and 5:13 gears and never even worried bout breakin anything. other than springs, u joints, perches, drive shafts.... lol but never axle shafts.
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#8
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Co
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Does that require a lot of modification to make work what is the width on that
#9
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I snapped a factory shaft in my front 44 and replaced it with chromos and I'm only running 35s. It's all in how you wheel. I pretty much do rock, try to avoid mud, so I'm a bit harder than some. If I had to do it all over I would have used a 60 in the front. BTW my 44 front came from a 78 F250 and is 67" wms to wms. I would stay away from the 78-79 44s out of Broncos and F150s with cast wedges, you have to replace the tubes or use ford radius arms.
#10
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I snapped a factory shaft in my front 44 and replaced it with chromos and I'm only running 35s. It's all in how you wheel. I pretty much do rock, try to avoid mud, so I'm a bit harder than some. If I had to do it all over I would have used a 60 in the front. BTW my 44 front came from a 78 F250 and is 67" wms to wms. I would stay away from the 78-79 44s out of Broncos and F150s with cast wedges, you have to replace the tubes or use ford radius arms.
#11
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
If you are going to run 37s or larger I wouldn't narrow them. The ones with the cast wedges have 1/4"wall tubes and the cast wedge is part of it as in no tube under the wedge so it can't be cut off. If you find one with welded wedges just grind them off and you're good to go. I prefer the added width for stability especially if you are running that big of a tire (I sometimes run a set of 38s on mine).
#13
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
On the 70s model fords with dana 44 fronts they used a radius arm suspension and it connects to the axle with two Cs. The Cs mount to the wedges, cast or welded on.
#14
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you are going to run 37s or larger I wouldn't narrow them. The ones with the cast wedges have 1/4"wall tubes and the cast wedge is part of it as in no tube under the wedge so it can't be cut off. If you find one with welded wedges just grind them off and you're good to go. I prefer the added width for stability especially if you are running that big of a tire (I sometimes run a set of 38s on mine).
#15
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Co
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6