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Understanding Axles?

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Old 06-27-2010 | 07:35 PM
  #16  
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The cast wedge axles aren't worth the trouble but welded on are an easy swap.
Old 06-27-2010 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by xjoffroad
waggy width is wider (cant remember off the top of my head) then stock width. people retube a d44 to waggy width all the time with no adverse affect. running a 67" width axle and then a 37's unless you have deep back spacing wheels you will be pretty wide. here in the PNW we have width restrictions and the trails are very narrow. waggy width d44 are very common. my 2 cents.
Waggy axle is about an inch wider. If you are running 37s the extra width will make it more stable. We don't have the fender restrictions around here so it's not a problem. I run a 8" wheel with 4" of backspacing and have about 2-3" of tire under the fenders (no flares) in the front and about 4" in the rear. Rear 60 is 65.5" wms to wms. BTW these came out of a 79 F250.
Old 06-27-2010 | 09:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 5-90
A few potential sources - although it requires some junkyard crawling...

Axles from under the U-100 (full-size) Bronco are a common swap. That can net you either the 8.8" or 9" Ford corporate rear (the 9" is preferred. The 8.8" has c-clips, and the purchase and installation of a C-clip eliminator kit is highly recommended...) and earlier years have a D44 front with the correct driver's-side drop. Also, check under F100, F150, and some F250 pickups. They are slightly wider than the XJ axles (XJ has 60-1/4" WMS-WMS, while Ford U-100/F-series is around 63-65" WMS-WMS,) but it's workable and gives you a slightly larger "footprint" anyhow. And, it will help with the added width of the 37" tyres.

Most pickup trucks and full-size Ford passenger cars (RWD, obviously) can yield up potentially useful axles. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury RWD can have the 9" rear (up to 1984 or so) or the 8.8" (late 1970's/early 1980's to now.) The 9" is Hell-for-strong, but you do lose some power in driving the thing (it has a larger hypoid offset than most other axles. This gives it great strength, but increases parasitic drag.) How much torque can you put through a 9"? I don't know - I haven't blown one up.

If you want a "bolt-in" rear, you can look for the Chrysler 8-1/4" (1991-up) or the Dana 44 (1984-1988 or so, tow package/heavy duty option) under an XJ. Grab the driveshaft as well, or plan on having one made (pinion length on both of those is rather greater than the D35.) The ChryCo 8-1/4" is also a C-clip axle, but C-clip eliminators are available.

The Chrysler 9-1/4" rear is found under the full-size trucks (D/W/Ram-series,) and is an upgrade. I believe it is also a "bolt-in" shaft axle, which means you don't have to deal with the C-clips. If the front axle has the centre section on the driver's side, you can fabricate mounts to put in a D44 (1/2-ton, some 3/4-ton) or a D60 (3/4-ton Heavy Duty and 1-ton.) The D44 will usually be paired with a C9-1/4" or D60 rear, and the D60 front will usually have a D70 or D80 rear. Some rare 1-ton Dodge will also have a D70 front - which means a D80 rear. A half-ton D44 can also be coupled with a D44 out back.

NB: Nearly any of these swaps will require that you either swap the front axle as well (since you're changing the lug pattern,) or carry two spare tyres (one for front, one for rear.) Which you do is up to you.

Some 4WD Rangers may have D44 or Ford 8.8" rear and D35 front - both of which would be upgrades from your D30/D35 setup now. These are rare.

The FSJ can also be found with the D44/D44 setup, as well as most later J-trucks (some are D60/D44 instead, these are usually the J20 series trucks.)

That's all right off the top of my head, but I'm sure other people can list more donors than that... I'm not working on that section of notes right now.
I was wondering about the gearing with the D30 up front on a 98 XJ. If I want to just do a rear axle swap and not have to worry about gearing. I currently have a D35 rear with ABS. Will one of the above mentioned rears, be a direct swap without having to worry about gearing?
Old 06-28-2010 | 03:27 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 1armyguy
I was wondering about the gearing with the D30 up front on a 98 XJ. If I want to just do a rear axle swap and not have to worry about gearing. I currently have a D35 rear with ABS. Will one of the above mentioned rears, be a direct swap without having to worry about gearing?
Match the gear ratio, rear-to-front. What's your setup?

If it's the 6-242 with the AW4, look for a 3.55:1 rear
If it's the 6-242 with the five-speed, look for 3.07:1

I don't recall the ratios on the 4-150, I believe there were three. Also, some early four-cylinder versions had 4.10:1 gearing.

You'll need to disable the ABS - the C8-1/4" in the XJ didn't come with ABS, and any other ABS variants will screw with the XJ ABS system (since ABS tends to be calibrated for the fluid volumes they work for and with.)

Other axles (as mentioned) may be swapped in - but will require some fabrication work to fit up (primarily cutting off the OEM mounts and welding new ones on. Probably also adapting brake lines and handbrake cables. Don't forget the driveshaft!)

If you get the XJ C8-1/4", make sure to grab the driveshaft as well, and try to get the handbrake cables if possible (or just buy them new. I prefer replacing brake parts with store new anyhow wherever possible.)
Old 06-28-2010 | 06:35 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 5-90
Match the gear ratio, rear-to-front. What's your setup?

If it's the 6-242 with the AW4, look for a 3.55:1 rear
If it's the 6-242 with the five-speed, look for 3.07:1

I don't recall the ratios on the 4-150, I believe there were three. Also, some early four-cylinder versions had 4.10:1 gearing.

You'll need to disable the ABS - the C8-1/4" in the XJ didn't come with ABS, and any other ABS variants will screw with the XJ ABS system (since ABS tends to be calibrated for the fluid volumes they work for and with.)

Other axles (as mentioned) may be swapped in - but will require some fabrication work to fit up (primarily cutting off the OEM mounts and welding new ones on. Probably also adapting brake lines and handbrake cables. Don't forget the driveshaft!)

If you get the XJ C8-1/4", make sure to grab the driveshaft as well, and try to get the handbrake cables if possible (or just buy them new. I prefer replacing brake parts with store new anyhow wherever possible.)
I have the I6 with Automatic Trans. So from what you are saying, I would have the 3:55 gearing. My ABS seems to be acting up anyway. It's acting like it's engaging every time I use the brakes as I get closer to a stop. Almost seems to happen when the trans is down shifting as I come to a stop. Haven't really been able to figure this one out yet. Pressure is good and not leaks. Just replaced front rotors, calipers and pads. Still does it.
Old 06-29-2010 | 09:09 PM
  #21  
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Are all the danas the same withe ex: is a Dana 60 out of a ford the same as say a dodge. Same foot print?
Old 06-29-2010 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Walter
Are all the danas the same withe ex: is a Dana 60 out of a ford the same as say a dodge. Same foot print?
No.
Old 06-29-2010 | 09:22 PM
  #23  
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How bout a Dana 60 out of a 73 ford and 76 ford same body stial
Old 06-29-2010 | 09:43 PM
  #24  
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So I'm wanting to do dana60 front and rear. I want to have matching length. Could I do it without cutting the tubs or anythingvthat goes along with it. Thanks anyone and everyone.
Old 06-30-2010 | 12:31 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Walter
So I'm wanting to do dana60 front and rear. I want to have matching length. Could I do it without cutting the tubs or anythingvthat goes along with it. Thanks anyone and everyone.
if you dont shorten to axle tubs you will be full width. thats great if its a dedicated wheeler. for a dd you tires will stick out 5-6" on both sides
Old 06-30-2010 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by xjoffroad
if you dont shorten to axle tubs you will be full width. thats great if its a dedicated wheeler. for a dd you tires will stick out 5-6" on both sides
Wait....What? Where are you getting your information?

The WMS to WMS measurement for a Ford HP d60 is 69.25", a stock D30 is 60.75". That puts the WMS on a D60 4.25" farther out on each side. Using a wheel with more back spacing will keep the tires closer to the body.

For the OP.
If you're seriously considering D60's you need to bookmark the following sites.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...0%20Manual.PDF

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...nt%20Axle).PDF

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ont/index.html
Old 06-30-2010 | 07:28 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by FrankZ
Wait....What? Where are you getting your information?

The WMS to WMS measurement for a Ford HP d60 is 69.25", a stock D30 is 60.75". That puts the WMS on a D60 4.25" farther out on each side. Using a wheel with more back spacing will keep the tires closer to the body.

For the OP.
If you're seriously considering D60's you need to bookmark the following sites.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...0%20Manual.PDF

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Dana%2060%20Manual%20(Front%20Axle).PDF

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ont/index.html
my bad. that was a guess on my part. so instead of 5-6 inches on both sides it will be closer to 5" on both sides. that would be one deep backspaced wheel to suck the tires in. but still you have to factor in if you are going to run a 12.5 or 13.5 wide tire, which would extend you width
Old 06-30-2010 | 09:10 AM
  #28  
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If you have this many questions about axles then you need to spend time researching different axles and various set-ups. If your going to run 37+ tires then your going to be doing a custom fabricated suspension to mount your axles and at that point you can use either driver drop or passenger drop, but they should be tons or your going to break things all the time. But you have to ask if this going to be driven mostly on the street of on the trail? - this will determine how built the rig is.

Personally I think your dream of 40 tsl's on your XJ is far away in never never land
Old 06-30-2010 | 09:29 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TheJerm
If you have this many questions about axles then you need to spend time researching different axles and various set-ups. If your going to run 37+ tires then your going to be doing a custom fabricated suspension to mount your axles and at that point you can use either driver drop or passenger drop, but they should be tons or your going to break things all the time. But you have to ask if this going to be driven mostly on the street of on the trail? - this will determine how built the rig is.

Personally I think your dream of 40 tsl's on your XJ is far away in never never land
what custom fabbing are you talking about? all the brackets can be sourced through a vendor. all it need to be done it welded on to the axle. how can he use a passenger drop axle? he never said he was changing his t case with a atlas or d300??
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