Understanding Axles?
#17
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
waggy width is wider (cant remember off the top of my head) then stock width. people retube a d44 to waggy width all the time with no adverse affect. running a 67" width axle and then a 37's unless you have deep back spacing wheels you will be pretty wide. here in the PNW we have width restrictions and the trails are very narrow. waggy width d44 are very common. my 2 cents.
#18
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Fort Dix, NJ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A few potential sources - although it requires some junkyard crawling...
Axles from under the U-100 (full-size) Bronco are a common swap. That can net you either the 8.8" or 9" Ford corporate rear (the 9" is preferred. The 8.8" has c-clips, and the purchase and installation of a C-clip eliminator kit is highly recommended...) and earlier years have a D44 front with the correct driver's-side drop. Also, check under F100, F150, and some F250 pickups. They are slightly wider than the XJ axles (XJ has 60-1/4" WMS-WMS, while Ford U-100/F-series is around 63-65" WMS-WMS,) but it's workable and gives you a slightly larger "footprint" anyhow. And, it will help with the added width of the 37" tyres.
Most pickup trucks and full-size Ford passenger cars (RWD, obviously) can yield up potentially useful axles. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury RWD can have the 9" rear (up to 1984 or so) or the 8.8" (late 1970's/early 1980's to now.) The 9" is Hell-for-strong, but you do lose some power in driving the thing (it has a larger hypoid offset than most other axles. This gives it great strength, but increases parasitic drag.) How much torque can you put through a 9"? I don't know - I haven't blown one up.
If you want a "bolt-in" rear, you can look for the Chrysler 8-1/4" (1991-up) or the Dana 44 (1984-1988 or so, tow package/heavy duty option) under an XJ. Grab the driveshaft as well, or plan on having one made (pinion length on both of those is rather greater than the D35.) The ChryCo 8-1/4" is also a C-clip axle, but C-clip eliminators are available.
The Chrysler 9-1/4" rear is found under the full-size trucks (D/W/Ram-series,) and is an upgrade. I believe it is also a "bolt-in" shaft axle, which means you don't have to deal with the C-clips. If the front axle has the centre section on the driver's side, you can fabricate mounts to put in a D44 (1/2-ton, some 3/4-ton) or a D60 (3/4-ton Heavy Duty and 1-ton.) The D44 will usually be paired with a C9-1/4" or D60 rear, and the D60 front will usually have a D70 or D80 rear. Some rare 1-ton Dodge will also have a D70 front - which means a D80 rear. A half-ton D44 can also be coupled with a D44 out back.
NB: Nearly any of these swaps will require that you either swap the front axle as well (since you're changing the lug pattern,) or carry two spare tyres (one for front, one for rear.) Which you do is up to you.
Some 4WD Rangers may have D44 or Ford 8.8" rear and D35 front - both of which would be upgrades from your D30/D35 setup now. These are rare.
The FSJ can also be found with the D44/D44 setup, as well as most later J-trucks (some are D60/D44 instead, these are usually the J20 series trucks.)
That's all right off the top of my head, but I'm sure other people can list more donors than that... I'm not working on that section of notes right now.
Axles from under the U-100 (full-size) Bronco are a common swap. That can net you either the 8.8" or 9" Ford corporate rear (the 9" is preferred. The 8.8" has c-clips, and the purchase and installation of a C-clip eliminator kit is highly recommended...) and earlier years have a D44 front with the correct driver's-side drop. Also, check under F100, F150, and some F250 pickups. They are slightly wider than the XJ axles (XJ has 60-1/4" WMS-WMS, while Ford U-100/F-series is around 63-65" WMS-WMS,) but it's workable and gives you a slightly larger "footprint" anyhow. And, it will help with the added width of the 37" tyres.
Most pickup trucks and full-size Ford passenger cars (RWD, obviously) can yield up potentially useful axles. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury RWD can have the 9" rear (up to 1984 or so) or the 8.8" (late 1970's/early 1980's to now.) The 9" is Hell-for-strong, but you do lose some power in driving the thing (it has a larger hypoid offset than most other axles. This gives it great strength, but increases parasitic drag.) How much torque can you put through a 9"? I don't know - I haven't blown one up.
If you want a "bolt-in" rear, you can look for the Chrysler 8-1/4" (1991-up) or the Dana 44 (1984-1988 or so, tow package/heavy duty option) under an XJ. Grab the driveshaft as well, or plan on having one made (pinion length on both of those is rather greater than the D35.) The ChryCo 8-1/4" is also a C-clip axle, but C-clip eliminators are available.
The Chrysler 9-1/4" rear is found under the full-size trucks (D/W/Ram-series,) and is an upgrade. I believe it is also a "bolt-in" shaft axle, which means you don't have to deal with the C-clips. If the front axle has the centre section on the driver's side, you can fabricate mounts to put in a D44 (1/2-ton, some 3/4-ton) or a D60 (3/4-ton Heavy Duty and 1-ton.) The D44 will usually be paired with a C9-1/4" or D60 rear, and the D60 front will usually have a D70 or D80 rear. Some rare 1-ton Dodge will also have a D70 front - which means a D80 rear. A half-ton D44 can also be coupled with a D44 out back.
NB: Nearly any of these swaps will require that you either swap the front axle as well (since you're changing the lug pattern,) or carry two spare tyres (one for front, one for rear.) Which you do is up to you.
Some 4WD Rangers may have D44 or Ford 8.8" rear and D35 front - both of which would be upgrades from your D30/D35 setup now. These are rare.
The FSJ can also be found with the D44/D44 setup, as well as most later J-trucks (some are D60/D44 instead, these are usually the J20 series trucks.)
That's all right off the top of my head, but I'm sure other people can list more donors than that... I'm not working on that section of notes right now.
#19
I was wondering about the gearing with the D30 up front on a 98 XJ. If I want to just do a rear axle swap and not have to worry about gearing. I currently have a D35 rear with ABS. Will one of the above mentioned rears, be a direct swap without having to worry about gearing?
If it's the 6-242 with the AW4, look for a 3.55:1 rear
If it's the 6-242 with the five-speed, look for 3.07:1
I don't recall the ratios on the 4-150, I believe there were three. Also, some early four-cylinder versions had 4.10:1 gearing.
You'll need to disable the ABS - the C8-1/4" in the XJ didn't come with ABS, and any other ABS variants will screw with the XJ ABS system (since ABS tends to be calibrated for the fluid volumes they work for and with.)
Other axles (as mentioned) may be swapped in - but will require some fabrication work to fit up (primarily cutting off the OEM mounts and welding new ones on. Probably also adapting brake lines and handbrake cables. Don't forget the driveshaft!)
If you get the XJ C8-1/4", make sure to grab the driveshaft as well, and try to get the handbrake cables if possible (or just buy them new. I prefer replacing brake parts with store new anyhow wherever possible.)
#20
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Fort Dix, NJ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Match the gear ratio, rear-to-front. What's your setup?
If it's the 6-242 with the AW4, look for a 3.55:1 rear
If it's the 6-242 with the five-speed, look for 3.07:1
I don't recall the ratios on the 4-150, I believe there were three. Also, some early four-cylinder versions had 4.10:1 gearing.
You'll need to disable the ABS - the C8-1/4" in the XJ didn't come with ABS, and any other ABS variants will screw with the XJ ABS system (since ABS tends to be calibrated for the fluid volumes they work for and with.)
Other axles (as mentioned) may be swapped in - but will require some fabrication work to fit up (primarily cutting off the OEM mounts and welding new ones on. Probably also adapting brake lines and handbrake cables. Don't forget the driveshaft!)
If you get the XJ C8-1/4", make sure to grab the driveshaft as well, and try to get the handbrake cables if possible (or just buy them new. I prefer replacing brake parts with store new anyhow wherever possible.)
If it's the 6-242 with the AW4, look for a 3.55:1 rear
If it's the 6-242 with the five-speed, look for 3.07:1
I don't recall the ratios on the 4-150, I believe there were three. Also, some early four-cylinder versions had 4.10:1 gearing.
You'll need to disable the ABS - the C8-1/4" in the XJ didn't come with ABS, and any other ABS variants will screw with the XJ ABS system (since ABS tends to be calibrated for the fluid volumes they work for and with.)
Other axles (as mentioned) may be swapped in - but will require some fabrication work to fit up (primarily cutting off the OEM mounts and welding new ones on. Probably also adapting brake lines and handbrake cables. Don't forget the driveshaft!)
If you get the XJ C8-1/4", make sure to grab the driveshaft as well, and try to get the handbrake cables if possible (or just buy them new. I prefer replacing brake parts with store new anyhow wherever possible.)
#24
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Co
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
So I'm wanting to do dana60 front and rear. I want to have matching length. Could I do it without cutting the tubs or anythingvthat goes along with it. Thanks anyone and everyone.
#25
Registered Users
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 0
From: Everett, WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
if you dont shorten to axle tubs you will be full width. thats great if its a dedicated wheeler. for a dd you tires will stick out 5-6" on both sides
#26
The WMS to WMS measurement for a Ford HP d60 is 69.25", a stock D30 is 60.75". That puts the WMS on a D60 4.25" farther out on each side. Using a wheel with more back spacing will keep the tires closer to the body.
For the OP.
If you're seriously considering D60's you need to bookmark the following sites.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...0%20Manual.PDF
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...nt%20Axle).PDF
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ont/index.html
#27
Registered Users
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 0
From: Everett, WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Wait....What? Where are you getting your information?
The WMS to WMS measurement for a Ford HP d60 is 69.25", a stock D30 is 60.75". That puts the WMS on a D60 4.25" farther out on each side. Using a wheel with more back spacing will keep the tires closer to the body.
For the OP.
If you're seriously considering D60's you need to bookmark the following sites.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...0%20Manual.PDF
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Dana%2060%20Manual%20(Front%20Axle).PDF
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ont/index.html
The WMS to WMS measurement for a Ford HP d60 is 69.25", a stock D30 is 60.75". That puts the WMS on a D60 4.25" farther out on each side. Using a wheel with more back spacing will keep the tires closer to the body.
For the OP.
If you're seriously considering D60's you need to bookmark the following sites.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...0%20Manual.PDF
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Dana%2060%20Manual%20(Front%20Axle).PDF
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ont/index.html
#28
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,501
Likes: 4
From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
If you have this many questions about axles then you need to spend time researching different axles and various set-ups. If your going to run 37+ tires then your going to be doing a custom fabricated suspension to mount your axles and at that point you can use either driver drop or passenger drop, but they should be tons or your going to break things all the time. But you have to ask if this going to be driven mostly on the street of on the trail? - this will determine how built the rig is.
Personally I think your dream of 40 tsl's on your XJ is far away in never never land
Personally I think your dream of 40 tsl's on your XJ is far away in never never land
#29
Registered Users
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 0
From: Everett, WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you have this many questions about axles then you need to spend time researching different axles and various set-ups. If your going to run 37+ tires then your going to be doing a custom fabricated suspension to mount your axles and at that point you can use either driver drop or passenger drop, but they should be tons or your going to break things all the time. But you have to ask if this going to be driven mostly on the street of on the trail? - this will determine how built the rig is.
Personally I think your dream of 40 tsl's on your XJ is far away in never never land
Personally I think your dream of 40 tsl's on your XJ is far away in never never land
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