Use of anti-seize on control arm bolts.. too much?
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Use of anti-seize on control arm bolts.. too much?
Well, the title asks a lot, but here is the question.
I just did a 3" series 2 install, I used a good amount of anti-seize on the control arm bolts because they were so tough to remove in the first place..
Now I think perhaps I used a little too much because even after tightening down the bolts with all my might, I can still spin the nut/bolt pair when the CA's are installed.. is this really bad? Do I need to take the bolts out and clean off all the anti-seize and let the metal bite into the metal to get a good solid grip?
This is the stuff that I used and yeah, some got on the bolt heads which is why they still spin.
I just did a 3" series 2 install, I used a good amount of anti-seize on the control arm bolts because they were so tough to remove in the first place..
Now I think perhaps I used a little too much because even after tightening down the bolts with all my might, I can still spin the nut/bolt pair when the CA's are installed.. is this really bad? Do I need to take the bolts out and clean off all the anti-seize and let the metal bite into the metal to get a good solid grip?
This is the stuff that I used and yeah, some got on the bolt heads which is why they still spin.
#3
so long as they are tight, your fine. but those bolts in the pic look like grade five. way soft and could break. i would recommend grade eight. much stronger and wont break as easily.
#4
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That is not my pic, I am talking about the big control arm bolts and rear spring bolts.. I am worried about the control arms becasue they have elongated holes, and I am afraid they will slide back and forth because of the never seize..
#5
i'm pickin up what you're puttin down. the lca bolts need to be good and tight so the arms dont shift. i would use antisieze on just the threads and also use lock nuts and washers. in the rear spring bolts, use as much as needed.
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#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here how i do things....i really only use antiseeze on thing im taking off all the time. And things i dont want to bind..like caliper slide pins,door hinge pins etc...Otherwise i install the bolts dry and use a dab of Locktite and Distorted Thread Locknuts when ever its a High stress bolt.
#10
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Right, i meant the brackets, not the arms themself. I have been under this Jeep for the past 4 days, I know it very very well.
So, does everyone think it would be a good idea to take all of these bolts out and clean them off with brake cleaner to remove all the grease and put them back in ? Because even when I tighten them all the way down I can still turn the whole nut/bolt assembly with a wrench on either end, the bolt heads and nut heads are rotating against the brackets even when tightened to all hell.
I almost wish I wouldn't have gone through all this trouble, it was one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever done and I just want it right!
So, does everyone think it would be a good idea to take all of these bolts out and clean them off with brake cleaner to remove all the grease and put them back in ? Because even when I tighten them all the way down I can still turn the whole nut/bolt assembly with a wrench on either end, the bolt heads and nut heads are rotating against the brackets even when tightened to all hell.
I almost wish I wouldn't have gone through all this trouble, it was one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever done and I just want it right!
#11
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
when i did my lift i could only break 1 loose, even after soaking them in pb blaster for at least 24 hours, and heatin them up. had to cut the rest off and go to the stealership over $40 on 4 bolts and nuts...
#14
Mate,
If it were me I would take them out clean them up and put them back with blue locktight ( meant for anti-vibration & disassembly with hand tools) .
The locktight fills up the thread voids and stops corrosion, and cause it is locktight they will not come loose.
It can spin wiggle or f#$K sideways after you tighten it, but you know the nut will not come off.
I use a torque wrench & locktight for all the suspension bolts.
If it were me I would take them out clean them up and put them back with blue locktight ( meant for anti-vibration & disassembly with hand tools) .
The locktight fills up the thread voids and stops corrosion, and cause it is locktight they will not come loose.
It can spin wiggle or f#$K sideways after you tighten it, but you know the nut will not come off.
I use a torque wrench & locktight for all the suspension bolts.