t1320t

That's odd man.. I anti seize stuff all the time & have never noticed a dramatic difference when torquing the fastener after application. I'd either hit the hardware store & pick up some grade 8 bolts or I'd clean them up w brake parts clean then do like "rainman" suggested & use blue loctite.

TallyPatriot

I just did a lift on my brother's jeep and we had to cut those bolts out with a sawzall. We went ot Home Depot and bought 1/2" Grade 8 Hex Bolts with lock washers and it worked great. It was about $7 for two bolts, washers, and nuts.

gintaras

I appreciate all the replies, but I think some are missing the point.. nothing is wring with the bolts, they are actually brand new from the dealer and are the exact bolts that came out.. The problem is that I used the Permatex anti-seize and that stuff really does a good job at what it is supposed to do, it never seizes..
So.. some never seize got on the face of the bolts where they contact the brackets, theere is no friction to keep them locked in place, they are GOODNTIGHT! but they still rotate on the bracket surface because of the ant-seize.. I could tighten them so much that I could probably crush the bushing and they would STILL rotate because that's what the compund is supposed to do..

The only reason that I used any of it in the first place is because I never want to have to cut these things out again, and I guess I used a little too much..

I guess I am going to remove them one at a time, clean all the stuff off, use brake parts cleaner and really get them clean, and then reinstall them.

the freeak

Unless you aren't using lock nuts, HOW is the bolt going to turn if there isnt a wrench on it?

Use a torque wrench, torque to spec, drive it.

If you want to be safe, maybe check it in a month.

djritter1122

i know what u were tring to do but on suspension parts it not a great idea.
all the vibs and jolts can shack things lose. take all of it off. if ure worried about it getting so rusted again just spray them down with wd at each oil change. specs are 147ft lbs

t1320t

Huh.. it must be bc you used the "advanced formula", ha.

So, even after you tightened them to "GOODNTIGHT", you can still spin them in the hole? I think I know what you're sayin.. it's still doesn't make any sense to me though. Heck man, sounds like you won't have to buy any more grease for anything.. just use anti seize!

gintaras

Yep, that's what I am going to do after I recover from this job.. I usually only use the stuff on exhaust bolts and lugnuts, but I was so worried about having the bolts seize again that I used it here, but I won't again, and thanks for the torque specs.

exactly, trust me, I was hanging on the end of a wrench getting the nut tight on the bolt (holding the other end with a wrench too) and yeah, you could still take a wrench on either end and turn the entire nut/bolt.. I guess this stuff really works as advertised.

caged

use anti-seize on the collar part inside the bushing and use locktite on the (clean) threads. just be sure the nut is torqued to spec's.

it's weird that the bolt still spins tho, almost seems like the replacement bolt has too long of a collar/shoulder. maybe use a washer or two in there. i'd use a flat then a split before the nut.

btam13

Sounds like everything is fine as long as you can be sure the nut won't come off. Use a lock nut or thread locker compound and don't worry about the bolt turning inside the bushing sleeve. You don't want the bolt applying a clamping force to the bushing. That would adversely affect the bushings ability to rotate and flex. If I remember correctly, those bolts are designed, as far as length of threads and length of shank, to tighten up without putting a clamping force on the bushing. You shouldn't be able to tighten them down so far that they clamp the bracket onto the bushing and if you replace the factory original bolts with grade 8 bolts, make sure that you don't tighten them so much that they clamp down on the bushing. This could be possible with non- factory bolts and would negatively affect the flex.

PolarXJ

This is what i was thinking that might be happening. I used alot on my bolts when I installed the lift. Along the shank (collar) and threads. I've never had a problem with loose bolts. I just the typical bolt check after a few hundred miles on the new lift. I'd definitely use alot of anti... on the shank on the bolts in the leaf springs. I've had the bolt rust enough on rigs where we had to cut both sides of the bolt, and replace the bushing in the spring.

gintaras

Are you sure about that? I mean, you have some good points, but if you are to torque down to the 147 lb/ft of torque, you will definately be clamping the bushing between the brackets.

djritter1122

yes absolute sure theres a metal sheave inside the bushing my lca frame end is set to 150 ft lbs to get rid of some rattles that was happening.

found this in like 2 seconds
Front Control Arms

Lower front control arms, axle bracket = 85 ft-lb.
Lower front control arms, frame bracket = 130 ft-lb.


Upper front control arms, axle bracket = 55 ft-lb.
Upper front control arms, frame bracket = 55 ft-lb.

Front trackbar, axle bracket = 55 ft-lb.
Front trackbar, frame ball joint = 65 ft-lb.

gintaras

I wasn't questioning the torque specs, I was just pointing out that you will clamp the bushing somewhat when you tighten the bracket. Not that there is anything wrong with that.

djritter1122

hey im not offended mines down to 150 for the lca frame mount no smashing is occurring.

the internet is silly to get mad over. lol

gintaras

OK, so today I removed all the bolts and cleaned them real good, I also cleaned the brackets off to remove any residual anti-seize. I used blue permatex threadlock and torqued the front CA's to 133 ft/lb and the rear springs to 110. Doing this made me feel way better about the job, the bolts are now good and tight and they do not move with a wrench on the end. I also went and cleaned the threads with a tap and die (m14x2.00)

I wanted to torque the U-bolts but I will do that later, I know they are way too tight because I used an impact to seat the pin and I actually slightly bent one bracket.