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Use of anti-seize on control arm bolts.. too much?

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Old 08-27-2022, 02:46 AM
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Marwell Grimes's Avatar
 
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Location: Aurora, Missouri
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Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.7L V8 (4X4)
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Originally Posted by gintaras
Right, i meant the brackets, not the arms themself. I have been under this Jeep for the past 4 days, I know it very very well.

So, does everyone think it would be a good idea to take all of these bolts out and clean them off with brake cleaner to remove all the grease and put them back in ? Because even when I tighten them all the way down I can still turn the whole nut/bolt assembly with a wrench on either end, the bolt heads and nut heads are rotating against the brackets even when tightened to all hell.

I almost wish I wouldn't have gone through all this trouble, it was one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever done and I just want it right!
Ok I clean my rusty bolts off with water then Liquid Wrench/WD40 or Brake Cleaner to remove all moisture and oils/grease.
I put the rusty bolts in Evapo-Rust before hand for 24hrs and it completely removes all rust.
If you want Anti-Seize on suspension Bolts then I suggest you use Nickel-Graph/ Permatex/Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize instead of Copper/Silver based Anti-Seize, the copper breaks down Steel over time. Nickel is safe on most parts.
Anti-Seize causes a reduction in torque values! So if you use it, it can throw off your torque by 20-27% So adjust accordingly. One of the reasons I use threadlockers.
this may sound crazy to some but i use Green Loctite 290 or Permatex 29000 / Blue 243 tube/248 stick Threadlocker on front lower shock/ nuckle bolts. Threadlocker light to medium strength is easily removable with breaker bar and acts like Anti-Seize in parts I want torque to hold perfectly.
▪︎ Green Permatex 29000/Green Loctite 290 is a light strength wicking/penetrating Threadlocker that is used on fasteners that are already tightened and torqued, no need to apply on before fastening with these two. Very easy to get off (50ft-lbs)
▪︎ Blue 243/248 is medium strength threadlockers that has to be pre applied and takes over 20minutes to harden so you have plenty of time to torque to spec before it locks and seals it from corrosion. It takes around 100 Ft-Lbs to remove by hand without impact.

Don't use Loctite Red 263 Tube or Loctite Red 268 Stick, they are very hard to get off and require impact and heating the bolt past 380-480°F. Don't Use Yellow Loctite 324 & 404 which are "threadlockers" that are Very High Strength and classified as Adhesive Grades which bond the fasteners together! Pretty much a industrial strength glue weld. Yellow Loctite 324/404 are Impact Wrench resistant!
The only high strength threadlockers that you can remove by hand without heat, chemicals and other sorcery is Orange Permatex 25210 Threadlocker. 25210 comes in paste & gel options, it's high strength but think of it being above Blue 243 but lower than Red 263.
I only use medium/high strength threadlocker on parts that have problems staying to torque specifications.
the light Green & Purple is great options for keeping suspension solid and rust free while being extreamly easy to remove later.

Last edited by Marwell Grimes; 08-27-2022 at 02:52 AM. Reason: Added a few thoughts
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