Very slow uphill
06-28-2021, 09:46 AM
#17
CF Veteran
I have a suggestion. Take it for one of those longer drives then get out and check the temperature of each of your wheels for a dragging caliper or binding brake shoe from a frozen parking brake cable.
06-29-2021, 08:27 PM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Gave This a shot and all were the same. I've got new brakes all the way around as well. Great idea though, didn't even think of it. But all the wheels are spinning good and free.
06-30-2021, 02:10 PM
#20
CF Veteran
That's why they let me stay here. I have lots of good ideas. Usually I'm full of it, but occasionally I pull one out.
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OldTires (07-24-2021)
06-30-2021, 02:12 PM
#21
CF Veteran
06-30-2021, 02:16 PM
#22
CF Veteran
How is yur scan tool data? LTFT ? Is it adding fuel or subtracting it? This should show if you're running rich or lean. TPS steady waveform all the way up? Burn any oil? Oil caked valves will shut down your vacuum pretty good on a hill.
07-05-2021, 08:04 PM
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Here are a few. It seems like it's running rich to me? Also my compression numbers are between 135 and 160.
This was only after about 3,000 miles as well
Last edited by JeepsR4kids; 07-05-2021 at 08:11 PM.
07-05-2021, 08:09 PM
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Doesn't seem like I'm burning any oil, the head itself is pretty new so I don't think I've got any caked valves. It seems like it's running rich to me.
And my scan tool is pretty basic so I don't get any wave forms displayed. Just basic data. But I did slap a new tps on it just for good measure and it didn't seem to make any difference
I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow, and I had them put a new magniflow cat back on it, which has started to rattle. So while I have it there getting fixed I'm going to have them test the back pressure on the exhaust and see if there is a restriction.
Last edited by JeepsR4kids; 07-05-2021 at 08:12 PM.
07-05-2021, 08:17 PM
#25
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
those aren't rich at all!!
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doublechaz (07-07-2021)
07-06-2021, 08:27 AM
#26
CF Veteran
You're a little rich but not enough to account for the problems you're having. "short term fuel trim when at idle warned up is from about +1 to -3% long term is about -5 to -8.5%."
Ideally the LTFT is at zero. What these numbers say is you are subtracting, fuel.
And OH speaking of fuel,
Hows the old fuel pressure? Might want to do a pump volume test also, the one thing a fp gauge wont tell you that matters a LOT!
Plugs don't look rich in fact look normal to maybe lean. Check out that fuel pump.
One other thing, if your valve seals are old, when going uphill you could be sucking in some oil. 2 cents
Ideally the LTFT is at zero. What these numbers say is you are subtracting, fuel.
And OH speaking of fuel,
Hows the old fuel pressure? Might want to do a pump volume test also, the one thing a fp gauge wont tell you that matters a LOT!
Plugs don't look rich in fact look normal to maybe lean. Check out that fuel pump.
One other thing, if your valve seals are old, when going uphill you could be sucking in some oil. 2 cents
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 07-06-2021 at 08:39 AM.
07-22-2021, 08:59 PM
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I welded in an extra O2 bung. Mostly it has a plug in it. When I'm trying to figure things out it has either a wide band O2 or a plug that is modified to lead to a pressure gauge.
That might be more than you want to do. For a quick and dirty, you can undo the exhaust after the front O2 and before the cat and see if that helps, but that would probably get you 25 to life in CA.
That might be more than you want to do. For a quick and dirty, you can undo the exhaust after the front O2 and before the cat and see if that helps, but that would probably get you 25 to life in CA.
Solved!!
Check the simple stuff, the transmission fluid had about 3 extra quarts of fluid. Way overfilled... Causing the transmission to slip and not function properly... Removed the fluid to the proper level and now I can go uphill just fine!
Should have been something I checked right when I bought it.
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doublechaz (07-23-2021)
07-22-2021, 09:18 PM
#28
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Everyone should check all fluid levels and condition when they get a "new" vehicle.
Along with tons of other stuff. Brakes etc.
Along with tons of other stuff. Brakes etc.
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doublechaz (07-23-2021)
07-23-2021, 04:23 PM
#29
Senior Member
Wow yeah, you should ALWAYS check all fluid levels when you get a vehicle. Overfilled is just as bad, if not worse, than underfilled. You were probably creating a backpressure restriction for the transmission fluid pump. That can also cause frothing, which can quickly overheat an automatic transmission.
Check your other fluid levels right away. My brother recently experienced a catastrophic failure of his (TJ) transfer case because he never... ever checked the fluids.
Check your other fluid levels right away. My brother recently experienced a catastrophic failure of his (TJ) transfer case because he never... ever checked the fluids.
07-24-2021, 09:51 PM
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Wow yeah, you should ALWAYS check all fluid levels when you get a vehicle. Overfilled is just as bad, if not worse, than underfilled. You were probably creating a backpressure restriction for the transmission fluid pump. That can also cause frothing, which can quickly overheat an automatic transmission.
Check your other fluid levels right away. My brother recently experienced a catastrophic failure of his (TJ) transfer case because he never... ever checked the fluids.
Check your other fluid levels right away. My brother recently experienced a catastrophic failure of his (TJ) transfer case because he never... ever checked the fluids.
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