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Voltage surge with my 87 XJ

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Old 05-29-2012 | 09:59 AM
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Jeffvador's Avatar
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From: Gosnell Arkansas
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default Voltage surge with my 87 XJ

Sometime when I'm driving, the voltage goes way down, enough to make my lights dim and one time at night the voltage ran so low it started missing and then died. But usually when the voltage runs low I hit a bump and it goes back up. I've tried pulling the ground cable (which is new) cleaning where it bolts up to on the engine. I've replaced the belt, alternator, idler pully and battery. This happens maybe every few days but when I hit a bump it goes back to normal so I think something maybe losing connection somewhere but I dont know much about electronic components. Thanks for any help.
Old 05-29-2012 | 10:12 AM
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From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L I6
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Have you tried cleaning your battery posts and terminals?
Old 05-29-2012 | 10:21 AM
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From: Gosnell Arkansas
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by 98_XJ Sport
Have you tried cleaning your battery posts and terminals?
No I havent tried that bc they are clean and tight.
Old 06-05-2012 | 09:31 AM
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bump
Old 06-05-2012 | 02:50 PM
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Try this: Don't skip any steps or take any shortcuts.

Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
 
 
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at
www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
 
Revised 11-28-2011
Old 06-05-2012 | 02:52 PM
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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what he said...lol...^^^^
Old 07-17-2012 | 09:58 AM
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From: Gosnell Arkansas
Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0
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I've replaced the alternator and the 2 wire pig tale connector (bc my original pigtale has been hacked up at sometime). And I am currently in the process of replacing and adding new grounds as stated above. I picked up some 8 gauge wire and im about to run the parts store snag some 4 gauge. I'll keep y'all posted.
Old 07-17-2012 | 01:11 PM
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0
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Well, I added the 4 gauge cables as stated and at first the voltage surged from about 12 to 15 or 16. Then it dropped back low as before. This sux. What should I do?
Old 07-17-2012 | 04:50 PM
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0
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bump. need this fixed, like yesterday
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