Hello Lordmonk3y,
We know you are reaching out to your fellow forum members for assistance. However, if you decide getting this concern addressed by your dealer and would like additional assistance throughout that process feel free to send us a private message.
Laura
JeepCares

 

Hi Laura.
I've been getting a whole bunch of phone calls for the last couple years saying my vehicles warranty was about to expire and that I needed to respond immediately to extend it and I never have. So I think it's just me and the Internet now... Thanks though!

 

Lordmonky3y,
Not a problem! We are available through private message if any assistance is needed in the future!
Laura
JeepCares

 

No grinding even with bad synchros huh? I thought that's how you knew they were going. Okay then. I guess the jurys out on them then.

I did notice when I put the new slave in that the housing where it bolts up to the gearbox was thicker. I ended up having to go and get some slightly longer bolts because of it but I didn't think it was a concern. That replacement got rid of my inability to shift into gears while the engine was on so it definitely needed to happen either way.

I didn't see any kind of spacer on the slave cylinder mounting point though so I don't know there. All these measurements you're speaking of: how tough are they for a shade tree grease monkey? I'm not too bad at turning wrenches but I'll be the first to throw in the towel when it comes to super precision stuff. (like backlash setups in diffs for instance)

Any of these replacements require that kind of thing or is it a just torque everything down properly and it probably won't explode scenario?

 

Would the clutch release issue also cause a light clicking noise if I roll forward in reverse with the clutch pedal fully pressed?? Or is that just what happens if you roll forward in reverse.

 

Oh, it will grind if the synchros are bad, but it would happen every time and you'd have difficulty getting it into gear.

Measuring should be easy enough, basically you want to see if the slave rod is fully depressing the fork. As you may recall, the slave rod pushes the fork, but when the slave is out, you could stick your finger or something in and manually (meaning, by hand) push the fork until it's "all the way in". Also, obviously this is possible without going through the rather intensive operation that removing the transmission requires, so it's something that I'd want to verify before blowing a whole weekend or more on dropping the transmission to get at the clutch components.

I will say, I've never done the diff/pinion stuff that you're referring to and would be super trepidatious about doing it, but I have done a couple clutches with great success as far as results. The process was frustrating and time consuming, but not difficult or requiring precision measuring. The next time I do a clutch, I'm going to remove the transfer case from the transmission - the previous two times I didn't and I feel like it was overly difficult to align the transmission up with the awkward, off-center weight of the transfer case twisting the assembly.

 

It definitely sounds plausible.

I've rolled my 95 forward while in reverse with the clutch down and I've never heard any noises, but that clicking definitely could be the disc skipping against the flywheel or plate - again this behavior would be consistent with a worn out pressure plate.

 

Alright. Time to request a day off and buy a punch of parts. Thanks PatHenry and everyone else. I'll update this thread with what I've replaced and what it changed.

 

The replacements I mentioned are simple things once you've got the transmission off and have full access to the clutch. The clutch is easy enough, just remove the pressure plate bolts off the flywheel (I've never had an issue, I've heard sometimes you need a helper to put a wrench on the harmonic balancer side to keep the engine from spinning) in a crossing pattern a little at a time, then a slide hammer to pull the pilot bearing, tap the new one in, use the plastic tool to hold the disc, install the new plate, torquing in a cross pattern and leave the tool in until you're ready to remount the tranny.
Then the ball is on the passenger side and the fork connects with a small clip. The clip pulls off, the fork and TOB slide off the input shaft, so you can easily mount the new TOB on a bench rather than under the vehicle. The pivot ball is just screwed in, put a wrench on the regular hex base, thread in the new pivot ball, put some grease on it (the kit usually includes grease, but I have a tube so I have enough), then lube the input shaft with the included grease. They say "lightly" , I probably go a bit more. You don't want so much it contaminates the disc, but you want enough to allow the TOB to slide smoothly on the shaft. Put the new little clip on the ball side of the fork, (you've already bench mounted the new TOB) then slide the fork onto the input shaft and the clip should pop over the pivot ball and hold the fork to the ball. That stuff is the easy part.

The difficulty with the clutch job is usually - Getting at the Inverse torx bolts at the top that mount the transmission to the engine. Usually 2-3' (yes feet) of extensions is required. A helper to keep the extensions straight and the socket on the bolt is very helpful. Then I had a hell of a time trying to get the transmission back on. I found that rotating the input shaft via the output shaft was important and I put bolts with the heads cut off into the main mounting bolts to ensure it was lining up correctly was helpful. A helper is very important too so you can manipulate the transmission jack, check the alignment, turn the input shaft, etc. to get it in place. Once it was really close (like 1/8" or less) I put the big bolts in and cranked it together.
Other than that, it's just the volume of work that makes it difficult. Tons of stuff has to be removed or loosened up and pushed aside.

 

I was just discussing with someone on here that said they always replace the flywheel when doing a clutch. I didn't, but they made a good case about the "while you have access" and the fact that the friction face is not flat. New flywheels are surprisingly cheap. If you do replace it, I was told you need to use NEW bolts. I have a set since I expected to remove mine (needed to replace the cover plate, but it slid in there no problem) that I'll mail you if you want to save $25.
I believe you can't use an impact for removal, but I may be wrong.

 

Thanks man I appreciate that. If I end up taking you up on that I'll pay the shipping. I'll need to see when I have time to do this. I work retail so it's getting to be a bit nuts nowadays.

 

Anytime!

I hear that on the retail work - I have good friends who both work retail and the stories they tell are nuts.

You'll want a good transmission jack (the HF one worked fine for me) and jack stands to get enough room under the vehicle. If you live anywhere near north central MA, I've got a jack you can borrow.

 

I appreciate that offer. I'm in South Texas though so you're a few miles away. Thanks for the advice. I'll be sure to check post if I get lost in the thick of it