ktmracer419

i would never be comfortable with having a single 10mm bolt keeping my axle from wrapping around under my jeep, this means a ruined driveshaft, bent shocks, possible steering and transfercase damage.

3 linked points on the axle, generally these should be hard joints if you have only 3 (no binding) iro uses rubber bushings, if wheeled hard these will quickly develop slop and eventually wear out.

you have two caster options

their arms are as low clearance as can be


and on their website they hype up the kit like the best thing for jeeps since tires.

"no silly threaded adjustable arms to wear out" keep the jam nut tight and nobody ever will have this issue

"your axle will stay less than 1/4" in wheelbase noi matter the lift height" just like every other longarm kit out there, these guys must be smart




havent been on their site in a while, but im sure theres more stuff i can critique

93XJLI

IRO also has the most retarded adjustment design ever, and its not even a real 3-link. its radius arm on one side and a single link on the other.

bwfdrums

well they look great! good work. I wish I could do that.

CrashDawson

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/album....pictureid=8484
You can see my full traction long arm kit its 6in i added a 2 in spacer to front,
kit came with steel braided brake lines stainless steel shocks new bolts heavy duty
skid plate boomerang rear shackles. also front rear bump stops sway bar disconnects and sway bar drop brackets. the upper and lower control arms are tucked up in the frame rails.

Shawnkstone

That's funny, I literally just looked at this picture today on your phone.

tinytrax78

I am running rough country tj long arms I bought used and upgraded to metalcloke bushings and made my own flat belly skid plate it works great and flexes like crazy my whole setup cost about $400