What causes oil pressure drop at hot idle, and how to cure?
#1
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
What causes oil pressure drop at hot idle, and how to cure?
I know generally that the bearing tolerances get further apart causing pressure drop, but how do I cure this?
I just changed my oil with Mobile 1 5w30 because I had it lying around, and my hot idle psi is hovering right at 15psi which is kind of worrying. With Rotella T6, hot idle psi goes up to 20psi or so.
I am going to replace my oil pressure sending unit and clean out the passage just to be sure, but mine looks fairly new and not too dirty around it so I suspect that it is fairly accurate.
But are there any solutions to this other than replacing the bearings (which obviously constitutes a partial engine rebuild at the least)? I am going to be replacing my RMS and oil pan gasket, and was wondering if changing the oil pump would be beneficial in any way. I am also afraid that the replacement pump could be defective and end up killing my motor if I accidentally starve it of oil (since the current pump has lasted 180k miles with no issues thus far).
Motor is pretty clean after several cleaning oil changes with either T6, or MMO added to the oil, and no real sludge issues. I havent removed the valve cover yet, but it looks pretty sludge free through the oil filler hole.
Someone tell me what to do
EDIT:
And before I get flamed, I know that 13 PSI is within "operating spec", but it does seem pretty low to me and I want this motor to last me a long time. I am going to switch to T6 after I run this oil a thousand miles or so just so it doesnt go to waste, but my roommate's WJ 4.0 never dips below 40psi (though I dont know if it has a real oil pressure sender or an idiot light)
I just changed my oil with Mobile 1 5w30 because I had it lying around, and my hot idle psi is hovering right at 15psi which is kind of worrying. With Rotella T6, hot idle psi goes up to 20psi or so.
I am going to replace my oil pressure sending unit and clean out the passage just to be sure, but mine looks fairly new and not too dirty around it so I suspect that it is fairly accurate.
But are there any solutions to this other than replacing the bearings (which obviously constitutes a partial engine rebuild at the least)? I am going to be replacing my RMS and oil pan gasket, and was wondering if changing the oil pump would be beneficial in any way. I am also afraid that the replacement pump could be defective and end up killing my motor if I accidentally starve it of oil (since the current pump has lasted 180k miles with no issues thus far).
Motor is pretty clean after several cleaning oil changes with either T6, or MMO added to the oil, and no real sludge issues. I havent removed the valve cover yet, but it looks pretty sludge free through the oil filler hole.
Someone tell me what to do
EDIT:
And before I get flamed, I know that 13 PSI is within "operating spec", but it does seem pretty low to me and I want this motor to last me a long time. I am going to switch to T6 after I run this oil a thousand miles or so just so it doesnt go to waste, but my roommate's WJ 4.0 never dips below 40psi (though I dont know if it has a real oil pressure sender or an idiot light)
#3
x2 15 psi with 5-w-30 is good. I have stated this point many times....don't get too worked up over hot idle pressure. Be more concerned if you have low pressure above 1500 rpm.
#5
like posted above.. you are within spec
The only way I can think of at the moment (if you are running a quality filter) to build up operating temperature oil pressure, is to purchase an oil with a thicker HOT viscosity... like the T6, but this is really not necessary
Having you pressure tested independently from the factory gauge is always the best insurance...
I would run T6 for its benefits... not to bring up the pressure...
The only way I can think of at the moment (if you are running a quality filter) to build up operating temperature oil pressure, is to purchase an oil with a thicker HOT viscosity... like the T6, but this is really not necessary
Having you pressure tested independently from the factory gauge is always the best insurance...
I would run T6 for its benefits... not to bring up the pressure...
#7
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Napa 1515 filter always.
Hot pressures are 35psi @ 1500rpm, 40psi 2000+ rpm
So idling in traffic with the gauge wobbling on 13psi is totally OK? It just makes me nervous is all.
And this basically all loops back to weather or not I should replace the oil pump while I have the oil pan off.
I'll buy a mechanical gauge to verify with though.
Hot pressures are 35psi @ 1500rpm, 40psi 2000+ rpm
So idling in traffic with the gauge wobbling on 13psi is totally OK? It just makes me nervous is all.
And this basically all loops back to weather or not I should replace the oil pump while I have the oil pan off.
I'll buy a mechanical gauge to verify with though.
Last edited by investinwaffles; 02-23-2014 at 10:50 PM.
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#9
There have been plenty of cases of good running engines that were rebuilt b/c of low oil pressure at idle only to still have low pressure after the rebuild.
#11
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 13
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Oil pressure sending unit is right above the oil filter. Unscrew OPSU with something like a half-inch wrench, screw in testing kit, start engine. Should be directions with the kit.
#12
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 11
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Remember that oil pressure is resistance to flow.
High oil pressure is not a good thing. I think your oil is flowing better than ever at idle with 5W-30 Mobil 1. You have helped your engine, not hurt it.
I don't believe your oil pressure reading is a cause for concern at all.
High oil pressure is not a good thing. I think your oil is flowing better than ever at idle with 5W-30 Mobil 1. You have helped your engine, not hurt it.
I don't believe your oil pressure reading is a cause for concern at all.
#14
Remember that oil pressure is resistance to flow.
High oil pressure is not a good thing. I think your oil is flowing better than ever at idle with 5W-30 Mobil 1. You have helped your engine, not hurt it.
I don't believe your oil pressure reading is a cause for concern at all.
High oil pressure is not a good thing. I think your oil is flowing better than ever at idle with 5W-30 Mobil 1. You have helped your engine, not hurt it.
I don't believe your oil pressure reading is a cause for concern at all.
EXACTLY High pressure represents LOW flow. Flow is what lubricates and cools things.
#15
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
To update this thread, I cleaned out the oil passage and repeated the test with a mechanical gauge. I dont have enough hose to read it while driving, but at a very hot idle, it still reads ~15-20PSI with Rotella T6 in it.
I guess that is OK for me as long as it is OK for the motor. Just want to make her last as long as I can
I guess that is OK for me as long as it is OK for the motor. Just want to make her last as long as I can