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What causes water pump fins to pit/corrode?

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Old 02-22-2013 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by highmileage
Anybody else here run soluble oil, I do and have not had a problem with this.
Ok, I'll bite......why, reasons for, benefits/advantages??????
Old 02-22-2013 | 10:44 PM
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Lubrication for one, don't seem to have an electrolisis issues, corrosion seems to be at bay, radiator quit rotting out, dissipates heat pretty well, lowers the freezing temp. IDK I started doing it for the corrosion benefit(I used to run straight water). Had the idea put in my head by an old schooler, same guy that taught me about shoe leather bearings.
Old 02-22-2013 | 10:53 PM
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......straight water and shoe leather bearings, really?
Old 02-22-2013 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by djb383
......straight water and shoe leather bearings, really?


Shoe leather bearings can be found on usually unmolested old ford model As' and Ts', when some people were driving cross country back in the day if the engine started to knock they'd drop the pan and shim the bearings with shoe leather, tin can, pieces of belt. They'd do wheel bearings the same way. Don't think it would work too well on a high comp. motor though, but good to know if you're stuck somewhere and gotta get it going.

Straight water disipates heat better than antifreeze, you just gotta flush the system regularly.
Old 02-23-2013 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by highmileage
Shoe leather bearings can be found on usually unmolested old ford model As' and Ts', when some people were driving cross country back in the day if the engine started to knock they'd drop the pan and shim the bearings with shoe leather, tin can, pieces of belt. They'd do wheel bearings the same way. Don't think it would work too well on a high comp. motor though, but good to know if you're stuck somewhere and gotta get it going.

Straight water disipates heat better than antifreeze, you just gotta flush the system regularly.
If you're using straight water, add Water Wetter and it will cool even better (add WW if you're using coolant/water mix, same reason.)

I haven't seen shoe leather bearings in years!

When you say "Soluble Oil," what are you using? Is it like that stuff used in automated CNC machinery with an antifoam additive, or what?
Old 02-23-2013 | 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 5-90
If you're using straight water, add Water Wetter and it will cool even better (add WW if you're using coolant/water mix, same reason.)

I haven't seen shoe leather bearings in years!

When you say "Soluble Oil," what are you using? Is it like that stuff used in automated CNC machinery with an antifoam additive, or what?

It's rare you find someone else who's seen them.
Yeah pretty much, I either get it from work(out of a BOP accumulator) or the heavy duty bars leak with the tar beads, but I leave the beads in the bottle.
Old 02-23-2013 | 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by highmileage
It's rare you find someone else who's seen them.
Yeah pretty much, I either get it from work(out of a BOP accumulator) or the heavy duty bars leak with the tar beads, but I leave the beads in the bottle.
I've worked on old flatheads - Hell, remember the old Chrysler "straight-eights?" Overhauled a few of those for boats...

Even got into one of those old GMC V12-702 engines, once upon the time (2-1/2-ton truck.) That crankshaft was awfully good for some bicep curls...
Old 02-23-2013 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 5-90
I've worked on old flatheads - Hell, remember the old Chrysler "straight-eights?" Overhauled a few of those for boats...

Even got into one of those old GMC V12-702 engines, once upon the time (2-1/2-ton truck.) That crankshaft was awfully good for some bicep curls...

First one of those old motors I worked on was a pontiac 305 straight 8, couldn't figure out why it had no oil pressure..LOL
To get back on topic, the antifreeze ratio was wrong needs to be at least 50/50
Old 02-24-2013 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by highmileage
First one of those old motors I worked on was a pontiac 305 straight 8, couldn't figure out why it had no oil pressure..LOL
To get back on topic, the antifreeze ratio was wrong needs to be at least 50/50
"50-50" is just the most widely-used. Depending on operating climate, it can from 70-30 (coolant-heavy, for cold climates) to 30-70 (water-heavy, for hot climates.) I've not see it get outside of that range.
Old 02-24-2013 | 05:22 PM
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Perhaps 70% water in the Northwest may be a bit much lol.
After all my overheating issues when I replaced the entire cooling system, I was so nervous to overheat; and reading that h2O is better at dissipating heat,
I may have overreacted.
Guess I'll keep it 50/50 eh?

Don't know why I was so nervous to run 50/50 anyways.
New pump, new 2 core GDI rad, new thermostat and housing, ZJ fan clutch, all new hoses and a flushed system was probably all it needed, NOT more water
Old 02-24-2013 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbadon
This is a common problem with long-life antifreeze (OAT,HOAT & Dexcool) if not maintained, overheated,air in system tap water or wrong mix ratio. These coolants will cause several issues if not maintained.
When the coolant breaks down for any of the reasons I mentioned it will become highly corrosive and EAT metal and in the process of doing that it forms gas bubbles that will cause cavitation which will beat the hell out of the impeller.
It is prudent that you religiously maintain your coolant system. If you want to you can drain and flush and switch over to the old green conventional antifreeze and change coolant every 2 years and these "Dexcool" ( yes, they are all dexcool emulations) problems will go away.
Didn't use DexCool just the regular green stuff. I got SOMETHING right at least lol.
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