evil_goat

Im going to replace the coil and leaf springs on my 92 cherokee. Is there anything that I need to replace like bushings or bolts? I life in an area with little rust, so I dont expect anything to break. Also would a macphearson strut compressor like this work for the coil springs?

Veeb0rg

stock for stock? New leafs should come with bushings. Might replace the coil spring isolators but you won't really know till you've got it apart.

evil_goat

Im getting the and . I think it matches upcountry suspension with a 1-2 inch lift. Im not sure if my jeep has upcountry. It has skidplates, but nothing else that is listed for upcountrys.

Dave51

Easier, quicker, cheaper and safer to unhook control arms and rotate the axle to remove/replace springs.

Dave51

Cause you'll save on gas trips x2.

Dave51

Since you'll be changing geometry (at least a little) you should be carefully checking all front end components for wear to make sure you don't end up with some death wobble. Especially ball joints.

Dave51

You may need new different isolators cause 782s have a pigtail on top.

Veeb0rg

You ok Dave?

Dave51

You're probably going to need to shim the rear axle a bit to adjust the pinion angle, but it's really not as complicated as some people would lead you to believe.

Dave51

Very well thank you.

Thanks for asking.

TrailerTrash

You will need
new U-bolts for the rear leaf springs
Possibly new shackles if the bushings are bad
and expect to replace anything else you have to remove

I had no use for a spring compressor when i did the same job.

RocketMouse

chiming in for brand if the OP cares.... I replaced my original rear with heavy duty Crown leaves from Quadratec about 5 years ago and they are still holding up great and were decent price too.
not sure if it's b/c I got the heavy duty version... but it does give a decent lift... fortunately I already had longer brake lines. So was no big deal.

Jim Malcolm

If the leaf springs have never not been removed before, or maybe even if they have, you absolutely MUST heat the bolts hot enough to break down the permaent "loc-tite" holding the bolts in place, otherwise you WILL break loose the nut spot-welded to the mounts on the frame. There is no way around this... If the bolts don't come loose somewhat easily, you need more heat... DO NOT under any circumstances try to force these bolts; you WILL be sorry...

Edit: I'll add that this is seperate from when they get stuck in the sleeves in the bushings. You'll know the difference...

evil_goat

What do I use to heat up the bolts? How do I keep the gas tank that is next to it from exploding?

Dave51

OK so let's start at the beginning.

What kind of tools do you have? If you're trying to do this with a Crescent wrench and a 3/8 socket set from HFT then don't even start.

You need brand name tools, at least 1/2 drive and 6 pt sockets. A BF breaker bar or air hammer. You might not even need heat, but soak the nuts in PB Blaster or awg's Magic Elixir for a few days. If they're as clean as you suggest in first post if you're that uncomfortable with fame back there don't use it cause that's how accidents happen.

For the front spring bolts cut windows in bulge, image to follow. You can then add PB, heat if you think it's safer and/or put a wrench on the nut if the welds break from the frame, it's NBD.