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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I’m sure some of you have seen my posts already. Hopefully I’m not a PITA and I want to one day be as helpful to the newbies as some of the veterans here. @cruiser54 and @lawsoncl have both been a wealth of knowledge and I thank you both personally.
Now that the rear-end-smooching is out of the way, let’s talk turkey.
Bought a ‘90 4dr Manual with 99k on the clock.
So far I have, in order of appearance:
- changed the oil to NAPA synthetic 10W30
- replaced the headlights with OEM (I have the upgraded harness, not installed yet)
- replaced the right side of the vacuum lines (line to EGR solenoid was missing) and then saw that the left side needs to be replaced as well. I have it. Need to install it. I have no interest in modifying the vacuum system.
- discovered pass floor rain leak, fixed it
- had vehicle inspected (passed)
- changed spark plugs (autolite out, NGK V Power copper in)
- removed and scraped grounds at dipstick with deoxit, applied oxgard
- topped off washer fluid
- sprayed Blaster silicone lube into the exterior door/liftgate locks and it made a 1000% difference in locking/unlocking (manual)
- Magnaflow cat should be arriving tomorrow. Current cat is busted and makes a lot of noise when the Jeep rumbles, for example when you accelerate from a stop in second gear.
Jeep has zero rust and runs like a dream. Sometimes getting into first requires more force than I would like.
What is left on the “must-do” list? I haven’t owned a car since 2008 but I’m very handy and I learn quick. I used to bust my knuckles changing my brakes, rotors, calipers on the sidewalk on my ‘93 Integra. I assume I’ve got some more fluid to change?
Any advice that anyone may have is greatly appreciated and I thank you all in advance for the wonderful wealth of knowledge that this forum provides.
Oil (sounds like this is finished, keep an eye on it, how much does it lose per week, per month, etc.)
Transmission fluid (for the AX-15, I think it is GL-4 or 10W30 double check this.)
Differential oil (~70w90 gear oil; if you have limited slip in the rear, make sure you get the right additive)
Transfer Case oil (can use ATF-4 here)
Antifreeze, is it green? If not, do what's needed to get it green; maybe just a drain/refill, maybe a flush is needed, maybe new radiator, etc.
Brake fluid, should be clear without sediment.
Lube all the zerks!
The power cable upgrades (see on ksuspension or other places for pre-made cables), how is the battery?
Full tune up, replace the distributer cap, rotor and wires along with the plugs (maybe you did this when you replace the plugs.)
Air filter (Wix)
Bushings -- they probably all need replacing on the front suspension -- will improve your ride
Fuel injectors, you can find the 4-hole variety on several different sites
The list goes on but this is off the top of my head.
Oil: the Jeep doesn’t leak. There’s never a drop on the ground below. But I need a new valve cover gasket.
Diff: how do I know if I have a limited slip differential?
Antifreeze is green.
For the TC and Diff, is it just a matter of draining out the old and adding the new until it reaches the fill hole? I know it’s smart to make sure the fill hole can be loosened before draining and I know that one of them (maybe both?) has a magnet in the drain plug that should be wiped off to clear any filings before putting back in. I have the FSM and a torque wrench so no worries there.
Assuming you're going to drive it in the winter
FLUID FILM
I’m in NYC and the Jeep currently has zero rust (it’s from Colorado). I was planning on taking it to a 4x4 shop for an undercoating. Is fluidfilm the better option? I don’t mind spending the extra money if it means I’ll be better protected and I certainly don’t want to give myself the false impresssion that I’ve protected the undercarriage when I actually haven’t.
I’m in NYC and the Jeep currently has zero rust (it’s from Colorado). I was planning on taking it to a 4x4 shop for an undercoating. Is fluidfilm the better option? I don’t mind spending the extra money if it means I’ll be better protected and I certainly don’t want to give myself the false impresssion that I’ve protected the undercarriage when I actually haven’t.
Based on my own experience of losing an " undercoated" 96 xj I bought new to rust and, using fluid film on the 2000 I bought 7 years ago fluid film works better. You need to reapply it every year but unlike traditional undercoating it's self healing and doesn't trap water/salt under it.
I'm pretty much driving in salt from Thanksgiving until Easter where I live and have had zero rust start on the Jeep or the 4 runner I have.
It tells you something that the people around here with plow trucks use it.
I'm sure you can find a place that puts it on if you don't want to do it yourself , I buy it in gallon cans and spray it
Oil: the Jeep doesn’t leak. There’s never a drop on the ground below. But I need a new valve cover gasket.
There's more ways to lose oil from an XJ than a leak from the bottom...worth keeping an eye imo.
Originally Posted by arpunk
Diff: how do I know if I have a limited slip differential?
Get the build sheet for your XJ from Jeep (I think for pre-1998 you have to email Fiat/Chrysler, if you google there are instructions.) Additionally, there should be a tag on the inside of your glove box that talks about needing an additive in your rear differential. Of course, that could be long gone by now, so build sheet or opening up the differential and looking for the clutches, or you can lift the rear and spin one wheel, if the other wheel spins in the same direction then it has Limited Slip.
Originally Posted by arpunk
For the TC and Diff, is it just a matter of draining out the old and adding the new until it reaches the fill hole? I know it’s smart to make sure the fill hole can be loosened before draining and I know that one of them (maybe both?) has a magnet in the drain plug that should be wiped off to clear any filings before putting back in. I have the FSM and a torque wrench so no worries there.
Yep, just drain and fill up to the top hole on both.
There's more ways to lose oil from an XJ than a leak from the bottom...worth keeping an eye imo.
Get the build sheet for your XJ from Jeep (I think for pre-1998 you have to email Fiat/Chrysler, if you google there are instructions.) Additionally, there should be a tag on the inside of your glove box that talks about needing an additive in your rear differential. Of course, that could be long gone by now, so build sheet or opening up the differential and looking for the clutches, or you can lift the rear and spin one wheel, if the other wheel spins in the same direction then it has Limited Slip.
Yep, just drain and fill up to the top hole on both.
yeah, a lot can change in 32 years. Get it on a jack then and give it a spin if you can’t find or trust the documentation you have and care to know. Additionally, adding gear oil with the LS additives to a non-LS diff doesn’t hurt anything.
Based on my own experience of losing an " undercoated" 96 xj I bought new to rust and, using fluid film on the 2000 I bought 7 years ago fluid film works better. You need to reapply it every year but unlike traditional undercoating it's self healing and doesn't trap water/salt under it.
I'm pretty much driving in salt from Thanksgiving until Easter where I live and have had zero rust start on the Jeep or the 4 runner I have.
It tells you something that the people around here with plow trucks use it.
I'm sure you can find a place that puts it on if you don't want to do it yourself , I buy it in gallon cans and spray it
I'd second the Fluid Film recommendation over the undercoating. IMO, the trick to Fluid Film is get that flexible wand thingy they offer with the little nozzle in it and get all up inside the frame rails from front to back, the rocker panels (it should fit in the four gaps in the pinch welds, and inside the bottom of the doors. Also get all those areas up near where the rear shocks attach to the body. You will get dripped on and you will smell like a sheep for a bit, but it's worth it.
For the transmission fluid for the AX15, I recommend Redline MTL90, Penzoil Synchromesh, or 10W30 synthetic motor oil. Most off the shelf GL-rated gear oil has sulfur based EP additives that are not friendly to brass synchros and generally shift poorly. The xfer case called for Dexron II to match what the automatic calls for, but it isn't picky and ATF4 is fine. Some guys swear by synthetic 5W30 motor oil in the t/c.
No real need to upgrade injectors unless you're have a problem such as rusting through. There are a few guys on here that sell refurbished bosch 4-holes that work well. Avoid the "new" cheap chinese knock offs.
Keep in mind arpunk had a complete vehicle inspection done at a shop before he drove it home.
Complete Tips 1 through 5.
@cruiser54@lawsoncl
Yes, I had an independent mechanic perform a pre-purchase inspection. He took it for a test drive and had it on the lift for about 30 minutes but I don’t know if he checked fluids. I can call the shop to ask but fluids are cheap to replace so why not just do it?
Cat was replaced today with Magnaflow 23229.
Right side of vacuum harness was changed. I have left side and will replace.
A/C I’ll worry about when it’s not winter.
Tires have been replaced with Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S 235/75r15
Oil Pressure Gauge kicked on when I turned the heat on. I think it was just a bad connection. I replaced the sending unit just to be safe. Starts up at around 80 and eventually settles around 40-50 @ idle
CEL… well, I think we know why the CEL isn’t coming on…
4WD light… I don’t need a light to tell me I have 4WD going
Leaks… I’ll see if doing the valve cover is above my pay grade. Crank seal seems more complicated. I need to do research and see what I’m comfortable with.
Is there somewhere in the FSM where it tells you recommended fluids? I see the maintenance schedule but not fluid recommendations.
For the transmission fluid for the AX15, I recommend Redline MTL90, Penzoil Synchromesh, or 10W30 synthetic motor oil. Most off the shelf GL-rated gear oil has sulfur based EP additives that are not friendly to brass synchros and generally shift poorly. The xfer case called for Dexron II to match what the automatic calls for, but it isn't picky and ATF4 is fine. Some guys swear by synthetic 5W30 motor oil in the t/c.
No real need to upgrade injectors unless you're have a problem such as rusting through. There are a few guys on here that sell refurbished bosch 4-holes that work well. Avoid the "new" cheap chinese knock offs.
@lawsoncl The FSM calls for 75w-90 GL-5. You put 10w-30 in there? The Redline MT90 is GL-4. Does that not matter too much?
12-19-2022, 08:14 PM
What are the first “must-do’s” for a new owner?
