What is this sensor? and other problems
#16
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I reread, and the airbag light coming on when you turn the wheel sounds like the clockspring itself. The rest, i dont know. Too many questions.
Is the TPS connector properly seated? Did they replace the wiring, or just the connector? Are the pins seated in the connector and not backing out? Are they clean? Like PatHenry asked, what brand TPS? Mopar is best. Anything else is questionable. Why did the PO disconnect the oil pressure switch and leave it hanging in the first place? Where is it? How was the PO monitoring oil pressure? If they added a second switch, where is it? I can only assume there isnt one as the gauge isnt working. Lots of questions, but if it were mine, id be checking everything the PO did. That missing oil pressure switch connector is bugging me more than anything. Dont drive it until you have a reliable means of monitoring that.
One more question. Why was the PO selling?
Is the TPS connector properly seated? Did they replace the wiring, or just the connector? Are the pins seated in the connector and not backing out? Are they clean? Like PatHenry asked, what brand TPS? Mopar is best. Anything else is questionable. Why did the PO disconnect the oil pressure switch and leave it hanging in the first place? Where is it? How was the PO monitoring oil pressure? If they added a second switch, where is it? I can only assume there isnt one as the gauge isnt working. Lots of questions, but if it were mine, id be checking everything the PO did. That missing oil pressure switch connector is bugging me more than anything. Dont drive it until you have a reliable means of monitoring that.
One more question. Why was the PO selling?
#18
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Also the guy I bought from couldn't get it registered in his county do to emissions testing having a check engine light on
Also maybe this isn't the orginal engine? That's why I have a plug with no wire. The whole block is painted black and fuel rail/ valve cover is red
Also maybe this isn't the orginal engine? That's why I have a plug with no wire. The whole block is painted black and fuel rail/ valve cover is red
Last edited by Volvo2.4t; 02-06-2019 at 03:50 PM.
#19
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
So in other words, too much trouble to deal with and the P.O. wanted a new(er) vehicle.
Can you get the sender to plug in or is it too short? Did you check to see if there's extra slack either bound up in the wiring sleeve or by re-routing the connector?
Good news on the TUPY head -- it doesn't look like it was "just" put on or anything, does it?
I agree with fb97xj1 that the disconected sender is suspect, but until you get it connected and see what your oil pressure is, I can see it being as simple as the plug got dislodged during an oil change and the P.O. didn't care enough to correct it -- it is odd that it isn't as simple as "plug it in"... the factory wiring to the factory location would obviously have been long enough. (If you're wondering why I keep asking)
If the oil sending unit grounds out, it will simply peg the gauge, it has zero interaction with the engine control stuff.
You can always grab a mechanical test gauge for oil pressure (maybe a good idea anyway since who knows if the sending unit is even functional) to verify oil pressure. It needs to be no lower than 13psi at hot idle and no more than 75psi. Normal operating range is about 28 psi at hot idle and 60 psi under load (in gear and driving).
Can you get the sender to plug in or is it too short? Did you check to see if there's extra slack either bound up in the wiring sleeve or by re-routing the connector?
Good news on the TUPY head -- it doesn't look like it was "just" put on or anything, does it?
I agree with fb97xj1 that the disconected sender is suspect, but until you get it connected and see what your oil pressure is, I can see it being as simple as the plug got dislodged during an oil change and the P.O. didn't care enough to correct it -- it is odd that it isn't as simple as "plug it in"... the factory wiring to the factory location would obviously have been long enough. (If you're wondering why I keep asking)
If the oil sending unit grounds out, it will simply peg the gauge, it has zero interaction with the engine control stuff.
You can always grab a mechanical test gauge for oil pressure (maybe a good idea anyway since who knows if the sending unit is even functional) to verify oil pressure. It needs to be no lower than 13psi at hot idle and no more than 75psi. Normal operating range is about 28 psi at hot idle and 60 psi under load (in gear and driving).
#20
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So in other words, too much trouble to deal with and the P.O. wanted a new(er) vehicle.
Can you get the sender to plug in or is it too short? Did you check to see if there's extra slack either bound up in the wiring sleeve or by re-routing the connector?
Good news on the TUPY head -- it doesn't look like it was "just" put on or anything, does it?
I agree with fb97xj1 that the disconected sender is suspect, but until you get it connected and see what your oil pressure is, I can see it being as simple as the plug got dislodged during an oil change and the P.O. didn't care enough to correct it -- it is odd that it isn't as simple as "plug it in"... the factory wiring to the factory location would obviously have been long enough. (If you're wondering why I keep asking)
If the oil sending unit grounds out, it will simply peg the gauge, it has zero interaction with the engine control stuff.
You can always grab a mechanical test gauge for oil pressure (maybe a good idea anyway since who knows if the sending unit is even functional) to verify oil pressure. It needs to be no lower than 13psi at hot idle and no more than 75psi. Normal operating range is about 28 psi at hot idle and 60 psi under load (in gear and driving).
Can you get the sender to plug in or is it too short? Did you check to see if there's extra slack either bound up in the wiring sleeve or by re-routing the connector?
Good news on the TUPY head -- it doesn't look like it was "just" put on or anything, does it?
I agree with fb97xj1 that the disconected sender is suspect, but until you get it connected and see what your oil pressure is, I can see it being as simple as the plug got dislodged during an oil change and the P.O. didn't care enough to correct it -- it is odd that it isn't as simple as "plug it in"... the factory wiring to the factory location would obviously have been long enough. (If you're wondering why I keep asking)
If the oil sending unit grounds out, it will simply peg the gauge, it has zero interaction with the engine control stuff.
You can always grab a mechanical test gauge for oil pressure (maybe a good idea anyway since who knows if the sending unit is even functional) to verify oil pressure. It needs to be no lower than 13psi at hot idle and no more than 75psi. Normal operating range is about 28 psi at hot idle and 60 psi under load (in gear and driving).
#21
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Eh, that doesn't mean anything - whoever installed the TUPY head probably painted the cover and fuel rail while they were out. It's a lot harder to paint an engine block. The fact they are NOT painted I think makes it more likely the block is original. Which is fine, 230k is nothing. My Dad's 94 had 400k orig miles on the engine (which still ran perfectly) when he retired the Jeep.
#22
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So the location for the oil switch on mine is totally wrong for a 2000. It should be located close to the oil filter and that explains why the plug doesnt reach.
Should I switch out the switch with one that will fit my plug?
Should I switch out the switch with one that will fit my plug?
#23
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Is there a port at the original location? In other words, did they plug the original hole with a bolt or something?
If so, I'd swap the sending unit back to the original location and plug the new port with that bolt.
If not, I'd pull the sending unit, make sure it plugs into the connector then splice an extension into the wiring and plug it in.
If so, I'd swap the sending unit back to the original location and plug the new port with that bolt.
If not, I'd pull the sending unit, make sure it plugs into the connector then splice an extension into the wiring and plug it in.
#24
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Year: 1995
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It's possible a P.O. relocated the sender and used an aftermarket gauge -- why they'd relocate it is odd, but it is kind of a pain when changing the oil filter.... speaking of that - get rid of that "orange can of death" and put a quality filter like a WIX/Napa Gold or -any other filter than Fram-- on it as soon as possible.
#27
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Last edited by country2; 02-06-2019 at 06:31 PM.
#28
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The oil switch I removed is from older models from what I can gather.
So there is something fishy going on with having old model oil switch but having a TUPY head.
So there is something fishy going on with having old model oil switch but having a TUPY head.