What should I do with my Jeep?
#1
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Location: Watford City North Dakota
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
What should I do with my Jeep?
I have a 1987 Cherokee with a 4.0 I6 and a 5 speed manual (165,000mi). It's condition is a little rough. The body is not to bad, no rust. Its just kind of ugly, it used to be red it now has green paint that is peeling off with the red showing thru. It needs a paint job. Mechanically its kind of decent. I do have a vibration/death wobble in the front end (not sure what the problem is). It has a leaking injector (new ones on the way). It needs a new exhaust system. I replaced the water pump, alterator, valve cover gasket and battery. I have driven it basically everywhere for a little over a year. I paid $1700 for it. The question is: Is this thing worth keeping and doing a rolling restoration, or would it be better to replace the injectors and sell it?
#2
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
All money invested into a Jeep is gone.
I would not restore or even paint a 1987.
I'd just drive it.
Death wobble. Exhaust.
I'm new to Jeeps, but that could be another $500-$2000.
I'd sell it if you got a good price.
If you want a "nicer" Jeep, sell it and get a 1998-2001.
10-15 years newer for $3000 with 125k miles. (All over Ebay)
If you were going to keep it, I would just fix things as they came along.
I would not restore or even paint a 1987.
I'd just drive it.
Death wobble. Exhaust.
I'm new to Jeeps, but that could be another $500-$2000.
I'd sell it if you got a good price.
If you want a "nicer" Jeep, sell it and get a 1998-2001.
10-15 years newer for $3000 with 125k miles. (All over Ebay)
If you were going to keep it, I would just fix things as they came along.
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 12-02-2012 at 07:42 PM.
#3
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L with throttle body spacer and cold air intake, bored throttle body, #784 injector upgrade
Do you like the jeep? If you do then I would not look at the value and overall cost and fix it, drive it, Love it.
#4
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Model: Cherokee
The question is: Is this thing worth keeping and doing a rolling restoration, or would it be better to replace the injectors and sell it?
#6
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Keep it. I spent maybe $150 total on my exhaust (high flow 2.5" cat, flow master muffler. 2.5" tail pipe; check out vendor mudfrog) and my DW was a bad alignment and needing tires balanced. Maybe $120 for both of those total.
My 91 has been in the "should I sell it spot before ". Glad I didn't. Has never let me down, pimpled through 4 ft of snow with a stock lift... Reliable through and through. Just give her a little TLC. You can do a descent rattle can paint job for cheap. Replacement parts for the xj are dirt cheap. Even when we get my wife a truck or SUV, I will keep my XJ.
My 91 has been in the "should I sell it spot before ". Glad I didn't. Has never let me down, pimpled through 4 ft of snow with a stock lift... Reliable through and through. Just give her a little TLC. You can do a descent rattle can paint job for cheap. Replacement parts for the xj are dirt cheap. Even when we get my wife a truck or SUV, I will keep my XJ.
#7
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Read through these forums. These XJ's are not nearly as bulletproof as people pretend they are. You want to "restore" your Jeep it will cost you upwards of $10,000.
Here is just a SMALL sample of all the stuff you need to do even on an newer 1998 XJ's. A decade older? God knows.
Seal rust (floorpans, doors, rockers, etc)
Flush coolant
Differential & transfer case fluid
Replace transmission fluid
Replace power steering fluid
Bleed brake fluid
Cooling system: Radiator, cap, water pump, thermostat, all hoses (Did I miss anything?)
Fan clutch
Oil filter adapter (leak)
PCV Valve
Alternator
Cleaning IAC and Throttle body
Temperature sending units (2)
CPS/CKP sensors,
Replace TPS (throttle position sensor)
Transmission cooler
Replace distributor, plugs, wires, coil, coil pack, distributor switch plate
Starter
Headlight upgrade (harness also)
New tires
O2 sensors
Check suspension (Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
Vacuum lines?
Fuel Filter, Fuel pressure regulator, Fuel pump....
CCV hoses?
Bulbs?
Fuel pump
Valve cover gasket (leak)
Lube Steering Column Boot (from inside)
Motor mounts
Tranny mounts
Hood Release Cable
Battery
Front U-joints
Front wheel bearings
Front brakes/rotors.
Muffler and catalytic converter
New front and rear wipers
Battery cables and terminals
Air filter
Front Left Window Regulator
Bypass Lock button for passenger windows
Serpentine belt
Here is just a SMALL sample of all the stuff you need to do even on an newer 1998 XJ's. A decade older? God knows.
Seal rust (floorpans, doors, rockers, etc)
Flush coolant
Differential & transfer case fluid
Replace transmission fluid
Replace power steering fluid
Bleed brake fluid
Cooling system: Radiator, cap, water pump, thermostat, all hoses (Did I miss anything?)
Fan clutch
Oil filter adapter (leak)
PCV Valve
Alternator
Cleaning IAC and Throttle body
Temperature sending units (2)
CPS/CKP sensors,
Replace TPS (throttle position sensor)
Transmission cooler
Replace distributor, plugs, wires, coil, coil pack, distributor switch plate
Starter
Headlight upgrade (harness also)
New tires
O2 sensors
Check suspension (Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
Vacuum lines?
Fuel Filter, Fuel pressure regulator, Fuel pump....
CCV hoses?
Bulbs?
Fuel pump
Valve cover gasket (leak)
Lube Steering Column Boot (from inside)
Motor mounts
Tranny mounts
Hood Release Cable
Battery
Front U-joints
Front wheel bearings
Front brakes/rotors.
Muffler and catalytic converter
New front and rear wipers
Battery cables and terminals
Air filter
Front Left Window Regulator
Bypass Lock button for passenger windows
Serpentine belt
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#8
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
keep it. fix it. my death wobble was from out of balance wheels. (These results are not typical and your problem may be different) do other parts a little at a time.
#9
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6
#10
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Read through these forums. These XJ's are not nearly as bulletproof as people pretend they are. You want to "restore" your Jeep it will cost you upwards of $10,000.
Here is just a SMALL sample of all the stuff you need to do even on an newer 1998 XJ's. A decade older? God knows.
Seal rust (floorpans, doors, rockers, etc)
Flush coolant
Differential & transfer case fluid
Replace transmission fluid
Replace power steering fluid
Bleed brake fluid
Cooling system: Radiator, cap, water pump, thermostat, all hoses (Did I miss anything?)
Fan clutch
Oil filter adapter (leak)
PCV Valve
Alternator
Cleaning IAC and Throttle body
Temperature sending units (2)
CPS/CKP sensors,
Replace TPS (throttle position sensor)
Transmission cooler
Replace distributor, plugs, wires, coil, coil pack, distributor switch plate
Starter
Headlight upgrade (harness also)
New tires
O2 sensors
Check suspension (Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
Vacuum lines?
Fuel Filter, Fuel pressure regulator, Fuel pump....
CCV hoses?
Bulbs?
Fuel pump
Valve cover gasket (leak)
Lube Steering Column Boot (from inside)
Motor mounts
Tranny mounts
Hood Release Cable
Battery
Front U-joints
Front wheel bearings
Front brakes/rotors.
Muffler and catalytic converter
New front and rear wipers
Battery cables and terminals
Air filter
Front Left Window Regulator
Bypass Lock button for passenger windows
Serpentine belt
Here is just a SMALL sample of all the stuff you need to do even on an newer 1998 XJ's. A decade older? God knows.
Seal rust (floorpans, doors, rockers, etc)
Flush coolant
Differential & transfer case fluid
Replace transmission fluid
Replace power steering fluid
Bleed brake fluid
Cooling system: Radiator, cap, water pump, thermostat, all hoses (Did I miss anything?)
Fan clutch
Oil filter adapter (leak)
PCV Valve
Alternator
Cleaning IAC and Throttle body
Temperature sending units (2)
CPS/CKP sensors,
Replace TPS (throttle position sensor)
Transmission cooler
Replace distributor, plugs, wires, coil, coil pack, distributor switch plate
Starter
Headlight upgrade (harness also)
New tires
O2 sensors
Check suspension (Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
Vacuum lines?
Fuel Filter, Fuel pressure regulator, Fuel pump....
CCV hoses?
Bulbs?
Fuel pump
Valve cover gasket (leak)
Lube Steering Column Boot (from inside)
Motor mounts
Tranny mounts
Hood Release Cable
Battery
Front U-joints
Front wheel bearings
Front brakes/rotors.
Muffler and catalytic converter
New front and rear wipers
Battery cables and terminals
Air filter
Front Left Window Regulator
Bypass Lock button for passenger windows
Serpentine belt
#11
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Year: 91 laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO 4l
Read through these forums. These XJ's are not nearly as bulletproof as people pretend they are. You want to "restore" your Jeep it will cost you upwards of $10,000.
Here is just a SMALL sample of all the stuff you need to do even on an newer 1998 XJ's. A decade older? God knows.
Seal rust (floorpans, doors, rockers, etc)
Flush coolant
Differential & transfer case fluid
Replace transmission fluid
Replace power steering fluid
Bleed brake fluid
Cooling system: Radiator, cap, water pump, thermostat, all hoses (Did I miss anything?)
Fan clutch
Oil filter adapter (leak)
PCV Valve
Alternator
Cleaning IAC and Throttle body
Temperature sending units (2)
CPS/CKP sensors,
Replace TPS (throttle position sensor)
Transmission cooler
Replace distributor, plugs, wires, coil, coil pack, distributor switch plate
Starter
Headlight upgrade (harness also)
New tires
O2 sensors
Check suspension (Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
Vacuum lines?
Fuel Filter, Fuel pressure regulator, Fuel pump....
CCV hoses?
Bulbs?
Fuel pump
Valve cover gasket (leak)
Lube Steering Column Boot (from inside)
Motor mounts
Tranny mounts
Hood Release Cable
Battery
Front U-joints
Front wheel bearings
Front brakes/rotors.
Muffler and catalytic converter
New front and rear wipers
Battery cables and terminals
Air filter
Front Left Window Regulator
Bypass Lock button for passenger windows
Serpentine belt
Here is just a SMALL sample of all the stuff you need to do even on an newer 1998 XJ's. A decade older? God knows.
Seal rust (floorpans, doors, rockers, etc)
Flush coolant
Differential & transfer case fluid
Replace transmission fluid
Replace power steering fluid
Bleed brake fluid
Cooling system: Radiator, cap, water pump, thermostat, all hoses (Did I miss anything?)
Fan clutch
Oil filter adapter (leak)
PCV Valve
Alternator
Cleaning IAC and Throttle body
Temperature sending units (2)
CPS/CKP sensors,
Replace TPS (throttle position sensor)
Transmission cooler
Replace distributor, plugs, wires, coil, coil pack, distributor switch plate
Starter
Headlight upgrade (harness also)
New tires
O2 sensors
Check suspension (Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
Vacuum lines?
Fuel Filter, Fuel pressure regulator, Fuel pump....
CCV hoses?
Bulbs?
Fuel pump
Valve cover gasket (leak)
Lube Steering Column Boot (from inside)
Motor mounts
Tranny mounts
Hood Release Cable
Battery
Front U-joints
Front wheel bearings
Front brakes/rotors.
Muffler and catalytic converter
New front and rear wipers
Battery cables and terminals
Air filter
Front Left Window Regulator
Bypass Lock button for passenger windows
Serpentine belt
#12
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Model: Cherokee
These XJ's are not nearly as bulletproof as people pretend they are.
All in all I've had better reliability from my two XJ's than any other vehicle I've owned, outside an '02 impala that was also trouble free to a quarter-million miles.
240K on the current daily driver XJ and no major problems. Still has the original cooling system (yeah, I know I know...), factory front hubs, factory CPS (shocker, hasn't failed yet. Did lose one on the prev. XJ though).. in fact I've had to replace very little. Things are starting to wear out now, but good grief, I've gotten 240K miles and 16 years out of these parts, lol. They owe me nothing. What's going to finally kill it dead is rust.
Bulletproof? Well, no...no mechanical device is. I've certainly paid a lot more and gotten a lot less with other vehicles though.
Last edited by Radi; 12-03-2012 at 01:05 AM.
#13
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Read through these forums. These XJ's are not nearly as bulletproof as people pretend they are. You want to "restore" your Jeep it will cost you upwards of $10,000.
Here is just a SMALL sample of all the stuff you need to do even on an newer 1998 XJ's. A decade older? God knows.
Here is just a SMALL sample of all the stuff you need to do even on an newer 1998 XJ's. A decade older? God knows.
Reading through these forums will show you a lot of things, including redneck repairs with bathtub silicone and college kids trying to make beat up **** they got on CL for a couple hundred bucks run. And they'll run. From what I've seen people get rid of XJs for a few reasons:
- Fuel economy
- It's screwed/can't afford repairs
- Built a toy and but need cash
- Combination of above
Like Radi said these things outlast a lot of vehicles with little maintenance, and finding one in truly excellent shape isn't likely. Lots of sellers are either clueless or liars.
I agree with others. Do a total assessment (beyond the paint lol) and figure out what's worth it to you. IMO if an XJ is rust free, anything is possible.
Last edited by salad; 12-03-2012 at 01:51 AM.
#14
bimmerjeeper is just being a downer because he got a ridiculous quote from a mechanic for maintenance. if you like the jeep keep it and do things yourself to get it how you want it.
#15
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Model: Cherokee
finding one in truly excellent shape isn't likely
First owner serviced it by the book.
Second owner drove it into the ground.
Third owner, new to Jeeps got frightened by the lifter tick and piston slap and dumped it back on CL. (you can tell these guys because the motor is warmed up when you arrive to look at it and there is a smell of 20W50 and Lucas in the air, lol)
This is where you- fourth owner- often come in.
Even at this point they can usually be brought back into reliable operating condition for just a couple hundred bucks and some labor, after which they'll run another 100K if you maintain them.