What to throw down the rabbit hole
#16
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
This thread is turning into a dog chasing a car...what's the dog going to do with the car once he catches it...
Much ado about nothing. The OP already said in post #7 he thinks he's got a cracked head or a blown head gasket. In either case it needs to be fixed asap, and in the process, when he has the head off, he can dick around with his lifters.
Much ado about nothing. The OP already said in post #7 he thinks he's got a cracked head or a blown head gasket. In either case it needs to be fixed asap, and in the process, when he has the head off, he can dick around with his lifters.
#17
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
If you had a dial indicator you measure & compare the valve stem height. A compression test would tell you more. can you feel the internal lifter stroke? Complete hydraulic stroke of lifter is only a little more than a 1/8" Make sure the lifter is bled down first by using a pry bar to push down on the pushrod end of rocker arm. After you evacuate the oil out of the lifter the spring is the only resistance you should feel and you should feel it go down about an 1/8" and spring back up. Since most cars have adjustable rockers (small block chevy) the fulcrum wear can be compensated for...not so with jeep but filing base of fulcrum block will accomplish the same thing.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/94o0yzswzqr9j39/0bMLZ8Yp6Q
#18
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Year: 2001
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This thread is turning into a dog chasing a car...what's the dog going to do with the car once he catches it...
Much ado about nothing. The OP already said in post #7 he thinks he's got a cracked head or a blown head gasket. In either case it needs to be fixed asap, and in the process, when he has the head off, he can dick around with his lifters.
Much ado about nothing. The OP already said in post #7 he thinks he's got a cracked head or a blown head gasket. In either case it needs to be fixed asap, and in the process, when he has the head off, he can dick around with his lifters.
=>I haven't owned it long enough or driven it enough miles to confirm coolant loss.
=>Have not seen milky oil look, more of too thick, too old
=>Do have low oil pressure when hot.
=>Have viewed decent oil flow to rockers. (video below taken after oil/filter change)
=>Cannot visually confirm a crack in head when head is hot or cold (image taken when hot)
=>Do have excessive wear on rocker/pivots
videos https://www.dropbox.com/camera?album...DOMAAAAAAAAADA
images https://www.dropbox.com/camera?album...DOMAAAAAAAAABA
I appreciate all the help as it helps me learn and evaluate my course of action. New head vs junkyard head, do I need to yank engine etc
#19
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 2000 4.0
Ooh, I forgot that would be directly relative to valve stuck open. I did a compression test on all cylinders while replacing spark plugs. I'm pretty certain my guage reads high (thought so as well when checking Seadoo compression) but they all read between 140 and 175 with cylinder #4 being right in the 150 area
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/94o0yzswzqr9j39/0bMLZ8Yp6Q
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/94o0yzswzqr9j39/0bMLZ8Yp6Q
A oil test on that dirty engine is going to show some high levels of stuff but all your interested in at this point is high levels of glycol and silica.
Were you losing coolant?
#21
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You may be surprised that a google of oil blotter and sizzle test did not help me lol. Would you describe that. (I have sent for but not yet received the Blackstone test kit).
I've only put a couple hundred miles on this prior to yanking the valve cover off to find noise and investigate low oil pressure. In that time I did not add coolant. The radiator looks a hair low to me but I have no real baseline to judge by. The overflow reservoir, I noticed last evening, was nearly empty, yet have to admit to not knowing its state prior to that.
Is there a way to test for cracked gasket vs cracked head other than lifting head and seeing how gasket looks?
Also, have you done either the blotter test or Blackstone on yours?
I've only put a couple hundred miles on this prior to yanking the valve cover off to find noise and investigate low oil pressure. In that time I did not add coolant. The radiator looks a hair low to me but I have no real baseline to judge by. The overflow reservoir, I noticed last evening, was nearly empty, yet have to admit to not knowing its state prior to that.
Is there a way to test for cracked gasket vs cracked head other than lifting head and seeing how gasket looks?
Also, have you done either the blotter test or Blackstone on yours?
#22
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https://www.dropbox.com/sc/qcsl6ae7n63by7v/vAinhoqJbq
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/uplopvpoc8kbttp/kqVaZJ6kJ8
Last edited by IGeeky1; 03-08-2013 at 02:37 PM.
#23
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So thinking a bit in reverse...If i pulled plugs and then tested cylinders one at a time with 100psi from an air compressor...wouldn't that cause bubbles in radiator to appear if I had a head gasket or head crack that was allowing coolant into the oil?
Do I need to take up to running temp first to open thermostat or could I get away with simply removing thermostat, I could do without valve cover having to go back on that way.
Do I need to take up to running temp first to open thermostat or could I get away with simply removing thermostat, I could do without valve cover having to go back on that way.
Last edited by IGeeky1; 03-08-2013 at 11:40 PM.
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