TwoXJS

Hey, guys. I'm replacing my front unit bearings when they come in tomorrow since they're both bad. Tires have right about a half inch of play in every direction, so it seems they're shot. I got to looking at the axle to visualize how much I'll be taking off, which obviously isn't a lot, and got to looking at the axle shaft.

Since I'll have most everything out of the way, would it be a good idea to replace the axle shaft U-Joints while I'm in there? I don't think it could hurt, but the problem is which joints to get! There's two or three different sizes on O'Reilly's website, so I'm kinda lost.

Jeep in question is my 1993 XJ 2.5. Dana 30 front, 8.25 rear.

freegdr

Only way to know exactly is to take axle into Auto parts aand match up. Then order spicers ....http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=951814

salad

Measure the diameter of the bearing cap. Two sizes were used: 1-1/16" Spicer 260X (OE) and 1-3/16" 297X ('95+). It's very possible someone upgraded to the latter in the past twenty years.

caged

buy both sizes and returned ones not used...

freegdr

You still got a 50/50 chance tried this there three different joint sizes by cross width.

salad

:| including caps?

TwoXJS

Okay, thanks guys! After closer inspection with the bearing off and axle shaft out, they still look good, so I'm gonna leave them for now. But now, I've got a huge problem!

One of the caliper bolts broke off inside the steering knuckle and we have no way of getting it out. Decided to get a knuckle from the JY, except when we took the old one off my Jeep, the upper ball joint seperated. The bolt that goes inside it came out with the knuckle. Can I put this back in somehow, or do I have to get brand new ones?

salad

Nope, time for new ball joints!

I had the same issue with a caliper bolt snapping, too. Went through a number of drill bits and eventually the husk came out with an easy-out extractor

freegdr

Caps were same dia. cross was bigger.

salad

I mean overall width. Cross size isn't going to matter as long as the overall width, cap size, and C-clip width is the same

skife

everyone says get the spicers.

i've been DDing my duralast gold joints for the past year 50miles per day and i'm pretty hard on it offroad. no issues yet. I run a 31" mud terrain on steel wheels.


I'll be running spicers on the HP 30 i'm building, but i'd like to run 35" tires.

TwoXJS

Alright, well, I was able to afford one upper ball joint after getting my wheel bearings and a Ball Joint Install/Removal kit. Got them swapped out fairly easily, but now something is catching my eye....There's a gap between the knuckle and ball joints (upper and lower), maybe a couple millimeters big.

I tightened the nuts down like an angry gorrila until I couldn't turn them a bit more. Will they end up seating more as I drive, or is there something wrong? I was only able to do one side today because of all this crud coming up....Have to work tomorrow, so no time to really do anything.

TwoXJS

Anyone? I'd like to know if it's okay before I call it done and start driving it again.

Radi

That gap seems to happen sometimes:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/upp...se-help-45022/

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...pared-to-stock

salad

Can you post a picture? The ball joints have large flanges that should rest right on the C of the axle. On the top from the upper ball joint, and from underneath on the lower.

There's supposed to be clearance between the knuckle and the axle C.

Also there's an actual torque spec for the joints... I don't see "angry gorilla" lasting long...