If I have a grand cherokee tank and pump what would it be? I stole some vac line from one of his projects and still have to keep one elbow and the skinny line for fit purposes.. the part on my spot on the intake is bigger than the line I found but it fit well on the regulator.. I could possibly swap out the short of the good hose and the long of the skinny line to make it long host and just a skinny line for fitting the elbow to the hose.. I also have stuff to make a smoker

I'm still getting 39 vac.. 49 no vac.. and probably dropping like the video below .... when I turn it off.. though I may do it once more tomorrow.. I may not have had the connection tight enough.. i made it tighter and it still dropped but slower

also.. my battery is fine but it is over charging according to my after market volt gauge.. I'm not sure if it might be related... I will read more threads about it later. also (something about the horn).. I may have an exhaust manifold leak.. on the rear driver side by the firewall or it could still be burning stuff off idk. i did tighten some valve cover bolts but mostly on the front. i dont think I have an actual pcv valve in it anywhere so idk but it is an empty elbow I guess you guys would call it a ccv.. that could leak.. so many mods, freshen ups, etc so little time.. lol

I consider myself still grounded at this point..

 

also... it is missing exhaust bolts on both ends of the engine.. there are pics in the best no start thread after cruiser suggested I tighten the intake bolts.. its not a lot of smoke..
i may have found one of those fuel lines dripping...on the pump. when I opened the door to look outside I saw a fresh dot under there.. I didn't move it but it could be the rear diff.. I took a shower last night and still smell like I need an oil change lol
I haven't put it under load but I did rev it a bit last night. sounded ok

off to look for threads about whatever is in the steering column .. I don't have cruise control... and its the only thing with a working horn

also, if you (general you for everyone) get a lot of head aches and runny noses.. get your head scanned to look for aneurysms. this sucks.. if you find one get it clipped vs coiled.. clips work better.
he doesn't get moved today cuz I was right before the xray was.. pneumonia.. also if youre on water pills, keep track of your electrolytes and drink a ton of water or your kidneys and heart could be affected..

 

If you are observing 39 PSI+ on the fuel pressure test gage, your fuel pump is working just fine and doesn't need replacing right now. You need a single, one piece vacuum hose from the vacuum source to the pressure regulator, either using a factory correct line or a single hose (5/16" may be a better fit). There can't be any suspicion the vacuum hose could/might be leaking/failure prone. The fuel pressure spec for your year/engine is 31 PSI with the vacuum connected, 39 PSI with the vacuum disconnected. If fuel pressure is 39 - 49, something is wrong with the fuel pressure regulator.

 

ok but..

If I have a 23 gallon tank.. the only tanks I find that size are for Grand Cherokee.. if I have a grand cherokee tank it stands to reason I have a grand cherokee pump.. which has, from everything I can find.. higher pump psi.. in the range I am finding. If my new regulator does the 10 psi thing between vac and no vac... wouldn't that mean it is working?

 

alternatively.. could that be why the old one had extra o rings?

 

I take that back... comanche tank is a 23.5 has a metal pump..
one of the regulators on rock auto says 38 psi.. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...4801&jsn=14801

incidentally, that's not the one I bought. The one I bought has no such info...

 

and that psi is the only psi regulator I can find both on rockauto and summit

 

For your year and engine, the PCM (computer) is programed with preset values of fuel delivery at fuel pressures between 31 and 39 PSI based on vacuum, which it is constantly monitoring. By altering the width (duration of time) of the pulse to the fuel injectors, the PCM is able to deliver the right amount of fuel for all load demands of the engine. The PCM also validates correct fuel delivery by the feedback it is getting from the O2 sensor, as well as other sensor inputs like the TPS. If the fuel pressure is wrong, the PCM will be wrong.
Newer '90s XJs have higher fuel pressure, around 49 PSI, but they are engineered for that pressure.

 

well.. lets load the parts cannon again..
think this should cover vac lines?


I'm also going through cruisers site to see what wiring etc I need to get to do those refresh/upgrades that apply to me not being a renix.
also.. what goes on the end of where the throttle cable attaches and am I supposed to have one being a manual tranny?

In other news I used the multimeter to check on that overcharging issue and I think the gauge is just not well grounded... it checked out fine under the hood.. running.. battery shows 14.5 v and off 12. something.
they can email me the paperwork I need to sign because I probably shouldn't go so far I can't walk home with the special needs boy that wont get in a tow truck cuz he can't

 

Pineapple Tree included a bunch of photos of his 2.5 in your first thread. There are some good shots of the throttle cable in his rig. If you perform a fuel pressure test again, take a picture of the reading at idle and post it.

 

from last night

 

the reason I'm asking is because I noticed I don't have a second or third thing going over my valve cover..
today I found .. idk.. it may be important or it may be a/c stuff. I do know I can do neutral, 1st and reverse.. I haven't taken it out of the driveway except when I played musical cars.. then it only went in the yard..

 

In your original post you showed a picture of a Penski vacuum gage. Have you performed a vacuum test at idle with it? If so, what was the reading?

 

thats at idle..

just here.. this is last night and me

 

that wasnt the best one

hang on.. uploading